WETLV27HW3 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

It wound up being the design of the dryer vent out of the house, It went straight up 20 ft. Ran new vent. Works fine now.

removed the heater element housing from the dryer. then on a table removed and replaced the thermal cut-off kit

Tested old part with ohm meter and found no continuity. Replaced old parts with thermal cut-off kit parts. Dryer heating worked.

We thought it wiras the heating element and we ordered that part from.you but it did not fix the dryer. So we ordered the thermal kit and little less then 15 min. we had it fixed.

My husband changed the part but part select was very helpful. With their free repair help site it made repairing a breeze! We will use parts select again and again. I did order all the parts we might have needed and only needed one. Now I will return the others.

I took off the back panel, removed the 2 screws each for the thermostat and cutoff sensor, removed the 2 wires that went to each, screwed in the new parts, reattached the wires, and bingo, the dryer produced heat again. This was my third and final shot at trying to fix this problem as I had already replaced the thermal fuse (was not the issue), and replaced the actual heating coil (apparently wasn't the problem either). However, the dryer is now working better than ever with the new heating coil, drying in about half the time it took before, so I'm glad that was done.

Checked the element and switches. Found thermal cut off switch open. Order new switch. Installed switch and vacuumed cabinet. Start and test.

Searched for answers on what to do when my dryer wouldn't heat and came across PartSelect videos on how to troubleshoot and repair. So I followed the detailed videos step for step and turned out to be a very simple task to identify that the thermal cut off had blown. I ordered the kit and very fast delivery had the parts in my hand in two days. Following the repair video, and a double check of the wiring diagram, had me up and running again for less than $40. I don't see a need for going anywhere else for appliance parts in my future.

got my kit from partselect and in no time i was drying cloths.

Removed the back panel and checked each of four thermal connections. The thermostat at the top of the heating element tested bad. I replaced both the top and bottom thermostats. Tested OK. Checked the vent pipe all the way to outside and tested clear. Inside of dryer was clear. Discovered that a visitor did not remember to clean the lint screen before/after each load. We set the dryer now to no more than 30 minutes at a time and ONLY on Medium Heat and it works fine. There is no need ever to use High Heat Setting. I was glad to find Whirlpool-authorized parts. I will never use generics again.

My dryer, a Whirlpool GEQ9800PW1, suddenly stopped producing heat. I did not have a multimeter so I rolled the dice on changing the fuse since that's a common problem. Well, it wasn't my problem. I borrowed a multimeter and learned how to use it from YouTube videos. I tested the thermostat, the heating element, another thermostat. They weren't the problem. I finally tested the thermal cutoff and it was dead. I ordered the part from Part Select, it arrived within 3 days, and is working perfectly. As for the installation process, all of the parts mentioned above are accessed from the front of the dryer, below the dryer door. There are two clips at the TOP of the panel below the dryer door. Use a screwdriver to pop them loose and remove the panel. There are also clips at the bottom of the panel. No need to mess with those. I wasted a lot of time doing that because I didn't realize the relevant clips were at the top of the panel. Once the panel is removed, you need to remove the metal piece that covers the lint trap and blower. It is held in place by three screws and pulls right off. On the right side of the dryer, you will see a hollow, metal tube with the heating element in it. The heating element can be identified easily because it's made up of coils. On the left side of this metal tube containing the heating element, you will see wires that attach to two separate items. The one in the front is the high limit thermostat. Behind that is the thermal cutoff. Only one screw holds the thermal cutoff in place. Remove the screw, detach the two wires attached to it, and simply replace with a new one. The entire metal tube can be removed from the dryer but I personally didn't find it necessary. I was fine with reaching into the dryer to remove/replace the thermal cutoff. The replacement part comes with both the thermal cutoff and a high limit thermostat. I didn't bother replacing the thermostat. This is a fast, easy job when reading the above instructions. My process was trial and error so it took me forever. Hopefully these instructions help others. I considered an aftermarket part but after some research, it's worth the $30 to get a factory part from this site.

remove back,remove both switches,replace

Ordered the kit for my dryer. Popped off the front access panel and 4 screws later, dryer works perfectly. 28 dollars plus shipping and fixed. Great OEM parts and fast shipment from Peoria. Recommended.

there were 5 ,1/4 screws in the back panel . The heater box was right at the rear when the back was removed.. Replaced the two controls that were in the kit with a 1/4 nut driver. Checked the terminals for tightness and contact. No discoloration on contacts. Ran unit after reassembly for 20 min cycle to test ,Put into service

take back from dryer all parts right in front of face replace part and try dryer and it work just like it said