WETLV27HW3 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I checked all the thermostats with a OHM meter and found a bad sensor it was pretty simple using U tube as a guide and the parts were here in a day and a half I'm now getting ready to replace the transmission in my GE washer

I ordered kit to your recomendation, took machine appart as per your video (Very helpful), put machine back together only to find that that was not the problem.No other recomendation as to what else I should.

Unplugged dryer from wall. Removed screws from the back using the socket set. Removed thermostat screws and disconnected wires(one at a time) while replacing new thermostat. Replaced second thermal and tightened screws. Replaced back panel on dryer. Plugged in, turned on and dryer was repaired..

Watched video on locating and testing parts (did help that I had a digital meter w/cont-tone ) removed and cleaned out dryer cabinet tested heating element-was ok went to thermal cutoff (tested bad ) ordered kit from part select parts arrived within two days (fantastic ) replaced parts in thermal cut off kit . Replaced dryer back also and important -removed dryer vent and cleaned out pipe -replaced vent pipe turned on the power tried dryer works like new again your easy to follow instructions made this a very easy job thanks people ! You saved me a great deal of aggravation and more important money

Had a lot of trouble getting front panel off. Check You Tube for directions. Checked heating coils and thermostats and found they were OK. Cleaned lint from fan and replaced thermostats although they may not have needed it (thermal cut-off kit). Put panel back and it works. See YouTube to see how to check coil and thermostats. They may check but if something is wrong it is either them or the control board. Thermal Cut-Off Kit is much cheaper.

diagnosed problem with ohm meter. replaced thermal cutoff and hitemp thermostat

MAKE SURE THE POWER TO THE DRYER IS DISCONNECTED. On the Dryer I have there is a pannel below the door. To remove the pannel use a small flat screw driver and push in on the two clips at the top to release the pannel. In the bottom is the Heating Element and housing. The housing is held in place with a bracket and two screws. Remove the bracket and turn the housing counter clockwise 1/4 turn to remove. Check the Heating Element to make sure its not broken. Replace the thermostat and fuse in the side of the housing. Reistall the housing oppisite of removal.

More time troubleshooting than repairing. Used online help for narrowing down problem to the thermal cut-off unit. Had to remove front lower cover, remove wire sets from heating element,remove element from dryer. Then it was a simple swap out of the two relays/thermistors, and put it all back together again. Unit worked as designed after repair.

I knew I needed a thermostat. So that part of the repair was my contribution.

As described by the video, I removed the front cover after I unpluged the electric plug. Pulled all the wires from the cutoff-TML. Removed the cover of the heating element(one screw). Removed the heating element housing(2 screws). Removed the cutoff-TML from the heating element housing(2 parts, 4 screws). Replaced the cutoff-TML(3screws). Returning the heating element housing to its place was somewhat difficult, it took few tries.Then reattached the wires on the new cutoff-TML.Returned the cover of the heating element. I pluged the electrical plug. Turned the dryer on high for 3 minuts and watched the heating element getting hot. At last I returend the front cover.

after using a meter to determine the thermal cut-off was bad and ordering the part, it only too about ten to fifteen minutes to repair. used a nut driver to remove the bag cover to expose the thermal cut-off. removed the wires and the screws from the parts. screwed the new parts on. replaced the wires. turned the dryer on to make sure it worked (heat came out). replaced the cover. set back in place and it works great

I removed the front cover. I inspected the heater coil (tested for continuity with a muti-meter). It was good. Checked the thermostat and thermal cut-off and found the cut off bad. Ordered the parts from Parts Select at half the price of the local sources and two days later they were on my doorstep. Problem solved.

I watched the video and was able to complete the repair with no issues.

I followed the video for this part. Opened the front panel. Unscrewed the brace on the bottom. Turned the element housing and pulled out after disconnecting the wire leads. Unscrewed the original parts. Screwed in the new parts. Reversed the sequence and ran a load of towels. It was easy and fixed the problem.

I studied the instruction on the partselect.com site, followed the directions to discover the problem, ordered the part from them, installed it as in instructed in their video, and it has worked perfectly for the past 5 days after doing a mountain of laundry. I took the opportunity to clean my dryer interior from all lint and dust as well as the vent. I suspect lint is what caused the problem after I washed some new flannel sheets which clogged my vent cover outside. I cannot say enough good things about the partselect videos. I'm ready to tackle a few other appliances. One note about the Kenmore Elite Dryer 110 model: Do not take the back off. I removed the screws which caused the steel plate to drop a little at the back of the dryer. Then I could not put the screws back in. To fix this, I removed the screws from the control panel and pushed it forward to reach just inside the top back of the dryer...pulled up the steel plate and got the screws to line up and put it all back together. The only other tricky part was getting the heater unit back in to the slot at the back of the dryer. I finally used a little brute force to push it in far enough, then turned it a quarter clockwise to the correct position. My husband was impressed that I tackled this project by myself. Hunting season was on in MN. THANK YOU PartSelect.