WETLV27HW3 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

After removing the exhaust pipe and clamp, I unscrewed the back panel with a 1/4 inch drive socket set. That exposed the wires and the wiring skematic. I used a multimeter to track the power to the element and found that no power was reaching the element. I then unplogged the unit removing all power and tested the resistance on each thermal fuse. The lower fuse had no resistance and the upper fuse did. I then disconnected the upper fuse, used a jumper wire the connect both wires together to bi-passed the fuse. I reconnected the power and turned on the dryer. The dryer element worked, confirming my suspicions of the bad fuse. Once I ordered the fuse and only paid for regular delivery I had the fuse with 24 hours and dryer back together within very little time. It took me more time to clean up the lint dust then it did to fix the problem.

Spin indicator light was illuminated but machine was repeating rinse cycle rather than spinning water out of clothes. Replaced the pulley and drive coupler, thinking there was a mechanical problem. Video instructions were great but old pulley and drive coupler looked perfect so replacing them did nothing. Next I replaced the washer actuator (shifter), thinking that was the reason for no high speed spin. Easy job, as shown in the video, but it also did nothing. The problem turned out to be a failure in the control panel, probably resulting from years of vibration. Decided to stop chasing my tail and bought a new washer.

Removed two screws to remove guard. Two screws to remove another part with wires. Pulley nut was already missing. Component was twist locking tabs.

With the instructional video the repair was very easy.

My dryer knobs ended up not only the problem but when i went to use my dryer the heating element wrnt out.... So i need to return your knobs and get my money back please thankyou however i need the correct forms to send them back and i have the original wrapping

Turned it on it's face,removed bottom back panel.Checked the heat coil and had closed circut. Checked the thermal cut offs one had a closed circut one open.So I orderd the kit ,replaced both . On with the panel,stood it up,plugged it in and WHALA!! Heat and happiness.

Remove the back, just a few screws, after you unplug the dryer. Disconnect the wiring terminals to both the low and high temperature thermostat. Take both units out with a nut driver and replace. Reassemble the unit the same way it was dismantled. Partselect is a great place to order whatever you need. They almost got here faster than I could place the order. Great service, keep it up.

I ordered the necessary thermal cut off and fuse from Part Select. The process was easy, when i came home from work my husband installed the piece in a matter of minutes and we were back in business of drying clothes.

I replaced the thermal cut-off kit. To do this I removed the heating coil assembly. After carefully inspection of the coil I determined it may not need to be replaced so I had this out then replaced the thermal cut off and put everything back. The dryer has been working for two weeks.

Removed back cover and replaced thermal cutoff, installed new push on terminals. Bolted back on and dryer is working like new again.

Unplugged dryer, removed back panel, checked thermostats & heating coil with ohm meter, found one stat with broken terminal and one that was bad. Ordered them from this site. Received them in record time, did the installation and was back in business drying clothes. Thanks for video & great service.

Removed the back cover, removed the thermal cut-off and checked with ohm reader, didn't get a reading. Ordered the part, plugged in the two wires and screwed in the two screws. Replaced the back cover, dryer works like it did the very first time. This does not take a male to do it. (No offense men). This site offers a short video on how to replace each part if you can't figure it out for yourself.

After disconnecting power cord, I removed the bottom front panel and disconnected 4 wires. I removed the screws, and the old parts, replaced the new parts, put the screws back in, and re-connected the 4 wires. One of the fuses only required one screw, and had a little clip to go into the other hole. The job probably took about 5 minutes, but I cleaned lint from inside the dryer. After replacing front panel, and connected the power cord, the dryer heats fine.

Having been out of the business for quite a few years I thought that I was dealing with a direct drive machine. Thinking that it was the motor coupler. I removed the control panel and attempted to pull the cabinet froward. Not so, it had a solid cabinet, so I tilted the machine against the wall and looked under the washer finding the driven Transmission pulley loose on the shaft. The splines on the pulley were pretty well worn but I tightened the nut and it worked okay. But I ordered a pulley and replaced after it's arrival. The motor capacitor also broke it's mount off so I had to rehang it with zip ties and repaired the wires to the Capacitor, (Which BTW had about 22 gauge wire). I found it hard to believe that they would use such small wire.

The kit came with two fuses. On testing with the ohm meter I found the one that was bad. But of course I put in the two new fuses. It was easy to reach from the front with the lint trap removed. The fuses were easy to disconnect the wires and unscrew and then put the two new fuses in - again screw the fuses in and then connect the wires.