GTD42GAMJ1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions
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WAITING ON PART
Still waiting for your parts. over two weeks to get part which was a hinge for something, I don't know what, but not my dryer seal. You said you would refund shipping and wrong part and charge me for a new order. End result was I got charged extra shipping for your mistake. The part still is MIA and it has been 5 weeks since I originally ordered. Will never do business with you again.
Parts Used:
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MARTIN from MOUNTAIN VIEW, WY
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
2 of 2 people
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Timer Knob was stripped
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Calder from WARNER ROBINS, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
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Replace the front slides and glides on the dryer
To get to the slides, needed to take off the front panel, the top and then can loosen the front of the dryer. Pull it out enough to get to the slides and replace them.
Parts Used:
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Robert from DECATUR, GA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
3 of 6 people
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Timer and knob broke
Took off back top panel, loosening one torn head screw, rotated timer counterclockwise approximately , removed timer ( front knob was already off) , exchanged wires out one for one , reinstalled , replaced back cover, and put knob on from the front. Very straightforward.
Parts Used:
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Lisa from WAUSAU, WI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 6 people
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Broken dryer knob/wouldn’t connect to select cycle
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Jean from MC ARTHUR, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
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Dryer timer will not work, can not engage timer.
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Randall from N FT MYERS, FL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
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Original timer knob stripped - actually this is the second one to do so.
Simply removed clip from the old knob - which had cracked - from stem, and attached replacement but bought a spare this time.
Parts Used:
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Robert from LEWES, DE
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers
1 person
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The timer was not turning off the dryer when clothes were dry
Ordered a new timer and removed the bad one and transferred the wires one at a time and installed the New Timer, start to finish took about 15 Minutes very easy repair.
Parts Used:
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Timothy from Richmond Hill, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
1 person
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Replace dryer front bearing slides
If your dryer is making a grinding or loud plastic rubbing noise, you likely need to replace the slides. Here is how I did it.
TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.
IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.
Step 1: Remove the control panel
To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.
Step 2: Remove the lid
There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.
Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses
Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)
Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to
There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.
Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)
There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.
Step 5: Replace the slides
The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.
Step 6: Putting it all back together
Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.
It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.
Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!
TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.
IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.
Step 1: Remove the control panel
To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.
Step 2: Remove the lid
There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.
Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses
Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)
Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to
There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.
Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)
There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.
Step 5: Replace the slides
The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.
Step 6: Putting it all back together
Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.
It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.
Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!
Parts Used:
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Darin from MEDINA, MN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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When the door is closed the dryer didn't work
Easy watch YouTube and open door placed screwdriver under door switch pry lightly and switch will pop out unplug wire connectors and replace on new switch reinsert switch should be done
Parts Used:
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Cary from SILVER SPGS, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person
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The dryer would not start.
The entire dryer had to be taken apart to get to the door switch. I determined the door switch was faulty by measuring conductivity. I purchased the new switch which cost about $9. The shipping cost was $9. After all that, the dryer still won't start. I gave up and bought a new dryer.
Parts Used:
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Arthur from GUILDERLAND, NY
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person
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After closing dryer door unit would not start after several attempts.
Pry out switch with screwdriver. After removing switch unplug electrical leads from old switch. Plug leads in new switch and reinstall switch in dryer.
Parts Used:
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Michael from ATWATER, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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Reversing the dryer door.
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Chris from WACO, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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Bulb burned out
Unscrewed the old bulb using the lefty loosey method. Installed the new bulb by turning it clockwise or righty tighty.
Parts Used:
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Pete from CEDAR RAPIDS, IA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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Burnt out bulb
Used a flash light to see, reached in and installed new bulb above the door
Parts Used:
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Jeffry from ROCKVILLE, MD
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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