GS39 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

part did not fix the problem, may be gas regulater ,well if you are changing this part,not to bad .remove the knobs bottom screws and two side screws front cover flips up and off ,the ignition control is in front of you right side ,remove the one screw that is looking at and everything slides out .i turned off the gas and elec and removed the gas line and carefully laid the stove on it back.made it easier ,good luck

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

#1) Pulled the range away from the wall and unplugged the electrical cord
#2) Turned the gas valve off and pulled the range away from the wall as far as the gas line allowed.
#3) Disconnected the gas line at the range and pulled the range out to access the regulator at the bottom and pulled out the bottom shelf to access the front of the regulator.
#4) I took photos of the regulator front and back for future reference.
#5) Unhooked the feeder gas lines to the oven and cooktop in the rear.
#6) Unhooked the three electrical wires attached to the regulator front and removed the set screw at the air/gas shield feeding the oven distributor and slid the shield down to the feeder line seat.
#7) Removed the four set screws holding the regulator to the back frame.
#8) Installed the new regulator with the four set screws in the back. Applied thread dope to the two gas feeder lines and installed the gas lines to the new regulator.
#9) Referenced the photos taken earlier for proper electrical colored wires to the regulator terminal block and reset the air/gas shield in the prior location and tightened the set screw.
#10) Applied thread dope to the main gas line and installed it in the supply side of the regulator. Turned on the gas and sprayed soapy water on the threads (all) to check for leaks.
#11) While the range was still away from the wall, plugged in the electrical cord, set the time, turned on the oven and broiler to checl operation.
#12) Cleaned up the range back and floor and moved it back into place. Re-leveled the range and received accolades from my Wife for a job well done. (perhaps now she will actually cook on it)

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

1st; I opened the door, 2nd; removed the keepers that prevent the door from coming unhinged. 3rd; placed 2 short screws in the holes in the hinges. 4th; raised the door until it stopped. 5th; lifted the door upward and slid the hinges out of the slots in the range. 6th; laid the door face up on a microwave stand. With a handle on the outside, and hinges sticking out of the inside, it was inpossible to lay the door flat on a larger surface, and get around it. 7th; removed 2 screws from the inside top, and the 8 screws from the very bottom. 8th; removed the bottom rail, and the handle assembly. From there everything was stacked pieces. Picked the glass front up, and carefully set it safely aside. Picked each piece up and cleaned it, and started the re-assembly. The hardest part of the process was getting the fiberglass rope around the inside glass, to stay in place during the initial re-assembly. From there, the assembly was just the reverse order. the process was about 1 hour and 20 minutes, due to lack instructions and practice, plus cleaning, finding screws, and tools, Instructions may have been on line, but I didn't find them. The new hinges came with pins in place, and should have come with an extra set to lock the old hinges.

The web site was easy to navagate and locate the correct part. The part was in stock and shipped the next day and was delivered in 3 or 4 days. All total the replanement was less than a week. The replacement was easy except it took a second person to hold the glass in place while i threaded the hold down screws fron underneath. I could not hold the glass and thread the small screws with just my two hands, plus having to thread the screws from the bottom was more difficult, but all in all it was simple and now we have a new unbroken glass front oven door.

According to the manual tucked behind the oven, if one solenoid on the gas safety valve/regulator doesn't work, neither will work. It indicated that from the center (common) pin to each of the others, it should read 216 ohms. Mine read 200 to one side, none to the other. I ordered a replacement, had a buddy tip the oven up for easy access while I went at it with a screw driver and some line wrenches. Swapped it out and she works like a dream now.

Removed the trim by unscrewing 5 screws being careful not to drop glass panel. Had to scrape and paint over rust stains on the glass panel. After paint dried reinstalled with new trim (remodeled part only required 3 screws). Just a little tricky getting screws started while holding up the glass panel.

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

Part came super fast, remove and replace two screws - nothing to it

Replaced the grates. Very pleased. Great service, correct parts, happy customer.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

The repair was easy. I had to remove the trim on the other side and the bottom. You slide the new trim on and screw in the bottom two screws.

switched out latch asy,rear

Removed racks and floor in oven, exposing ignitor assembly. Disconnected 2 wires at electrical connector plug. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in place, removed bad ignitor, installed new ignitor in reverse order. Tested for ignition, all worked fine.