General Electric Cooktop Seals and Gaskets

Your Price

$27.95

General Electric Cooktop Gasket Door Asm

★★★★★

13 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS12577485

Manufacturer Part Number WB35X29720

This oven door gasket prevents heat from escaping the oven cavity when in use. It contains all of the attaching clips needed for installation.

Fixes these symptoms

Oven not heating evenly
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Installation Instructions

DAVID from WILLIAMSTOWN, NJ

Repair Hotpoint Oven

I had to replace the gasket on the oven door, the old one was close to not being present. All I needed to do is to pull the old clips with the pliers, and then added the new gasket. Now the knob was easy to put on :) Read more...

Your Price

$20.95

General Electric Cooktop Range Seal Cntl (black)

★★★★★

1 Review

PartSelect Number PS952314

Manufacturer Part Number WB04T10042

This is a GE-branded Control Panel Seal designed for cooktops. This central black seal serves a crucial role in preventing spillage from leaking beneath the control panel. Before installing this part, we recommend shutting off the house circuit breaker or unplugging your GE cooktop for safety measures. The seal is sleek, durable and perfect for maintaining the functionality and appearance of your appliance. Essential for preventing potential damage, the control panel seal secures your cooktop's critical components. Invest in this genuine GE part to ensure the optimal performance and longevity of your cooktop.

Your Price

$34.95

General Electric Cooktop Infinte Switch / Seal Kit

★★★★★

9 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS16729007

Manufacturer Part Number WB24X41827

Fixes these symptoms

Element will not heat
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Your Price

$19.95

General Electric Cooktop Range Burner Bowl Seal

★★★★★

4 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS244608

Manufacturer Part Number WB32M8

This part is the replacement burner bowl seal or drip pan seal for your range. It is black in color and is sold individually. The burner bowl seal creates a seal between the cooktop and the drip pan and prevents spills from leaking between them. If the seal is broken or worn, it can allow spills to leak under the cooktop. To replace the seal, carefully remove it from under the drip pan, and fit the new seal into place. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.

Installation Instructions

Bill from Corona, CA

worn / chipped bowl

Removed two screws, pulled out the igniter wire, removed a spring type wire holding the igniter to the bowl. Replace with new bowl, reconnected wire and placed new washer around bowl, placed back on stove top and screwed in place. Less than ten minutes to replace and only used a phillips screw driver. Read more...

Your Price

$35.95

General Electric Cooktop Infinate Switch / Seal Kit

PartSelect Number PS16729008

Manufacturer Part Number WB24X41828

Your Price

$20.95

General Electric Cooktop Seal Cntl (wht)

PartSelect Number PS952312

Manufacturer Part Number WB04T10040

Your Price

$20.95

General Electric Cooktop Range Burner Gasket

PartSelect Number PS227129

Manufacturer Part Number WB04T10012

Installation Instructions

Michael from Weatogue, CT

No spark at one burner

Other writers have claimed that this is a "really easy" job. They apparently had one or more of: 1. Less used appliance. 2. Never spilled anything on the cooktop 3. Much better luck. In my case, the apparently faulty igniter absolutely would not pull out. I removed it by removing the burner retaining screws and prying under the burner casting. Having done that, I cleaned the igniter and tested it again. None of the igniters worked, and I could hear arcing under the cooktop, indicating one or more of the igniter HV wires had somehow grounded. After a fruitless search for instructions on raising the cooktop, I stumbled upon an envelope glued to the back of the range that told me to remove all four burners and igniters and to release the cooktop by inserting a thin screwdriver under the front edge about 3" from each end to release the spring clips. Several of the igniters were cemented in place with caramelized sugar and required some pretty vigorous prying to dislodge. If I had this to do again on a range that had been ridden hard, I wouldproactively order a full set of gaskets (they're fragile), the HV harness (even if it doesn't leak as mine did, the igniter connectors degrade from heat exposure), a set of electrode mounting clips (none of them were much use either), and enough igniters to replace any that don't work plus at least one. I pried out the recalcitrant igniters; in retrospect I should have crushed them because of the severe risk imposed by prying of breaking either a burner casting or the cooktop -- either of which are far more expensive than another igniter. Read more...