WTW5100HW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

As women, myself and my daughter completed this fairly simple repair. The replacement washer plate was top quality and included the washplate replacement screw. Additionally, we purchased a tube of lock tight to further secure bolt placement. The most difficult part of the repair is to disengage old screw and securely replace with new one. Very pleased with fast delivery Excellent customer service and top quality part.
Thanks

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

Ordered this part 3 times over a period of several months and never received it. Only would get emails saying it was out of stock and would be sent soon. Eventually had to but a whole new washer. Will never recomend this company or another Maytag product.

The repair went really well. And it was the right part and now we can have light in our fridge.
Thank you!
Your help and fast shipping really made a difference. I will always shop for my parts with you guys. Thank you for having things no store has. It saves alit of money all around.
Thank you again.

If you take the back off the machine, it's a lot easier to detach the control bridge. Saved a lot of time and did not need to stretch your fingers

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

Research showed it was the transmission and the actuator . Parts were super easy to install and it solved the issue 100%

PS - I put some light lithium grease on the transmission and it’s quieter than it was when new

Siphon break kit keeps washing machine from continuing to siphon after rinse/cycle -- like emptying a pool with a hose. Fixed the problem of the tub never filling due to siphon draining out water as it's being put in.

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

When to PartSelect Web site, used their trouble shooting guide, Used their advice, which was to replace the actuator. bought and installed the actuator which took around 20 minutes or so. washer started working fine after replacing. Thanks to the website I save a lot of money. Thanks PartSelect

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

First, this is the second time the transmission actuator went bad. The first-time washer was still under warrenty and I watched the tech replace it. This time warranty has expired and I'm mechanically inclined, so I ordered the part. Replacing was easy, unplug, tip washer up so you can get under it, remove plastic guard (two hex nuts) and remove actuator by removing two screws. Reverse procedure to install new actuator. The only caution I will say is when tipping washer if you have a wall to lean it against, perfect, just put something under it for saftey so it can't fall on you.

It easily installed with a twist lock removal and installation. 2 minute fix.

Ordered drain hose extender. It uses a rubber flange with hose clip to attach to washer's plastic hose. When tightened, the hose clip crushes the plastic hose and crimps it, causing a leak. My solution was to find a copper pipe flange that was the same diameter as the interior of the plastic hose to act as a bushing for the plastic hose. The hose clip could then be tightened without deforming the hose. Worked great with no leaks.