WFW72HEDW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

The repair was easier than the troubleshooting. Figured out the hot or cold water supply valve was failing which allowed water to enter the tub via the dispenser leaving several inches of water on clean clothes or the empty cylinder.

To replace the valve you need to first shut off the hot/cold water supply and remove the hoses. (I took this time to replace the several year old hot & cold water supply rubber hoses with metal braided hoses. I also took a wire brush to the threads of the copper spigot removing any built up corrosion or gunk.) Next you need to remove the 3 1/4" sheet metal screws which secure the top panel of the washing machine. I always take a few pictures of the old part, hose, and connectors just to make sure I replace them in the same locations.

After removing the cover you can use clamp removal/installation pliers, vice grips, or a similar tool to remove the clamps for the hot and cold water to the detergent/bleach/softener dispenser.

Then, remove the electrical connectors on the valve and if you want label them with their locations on the left or right facing the rear of the washer if you want but they are pretty much self-explanatory. They have little retention clips which need to be disengaged in order to be removed from the valve assembly.

Next, remove the hoses and then the three sheet metal screws attaching the valve to back panel of the washer. Install the new valve assembly and then attach the hot and cold water hoses using the clamps to the detergent/bleach/softener dispensers. Then, attach the electrical connectors to the new valve and listen for the clip to engage and gently pull back on the connector (not the wires) to ensure they are properly attached to the valve.

Reconnect the hot & cold water supply hoses from the building pipes and turn-on both spigots or ball valves. Check for leaks and then plug in the washing machine and run a load to test the normal operation. I would leave one piece of dry clothing in the tub after running a load and leave it for a few hours to ensure the new valve is working as advertised.

If there are no further leaks, you are done! Way to go!

I didn’t know at the time that they weren’t gonna send me glass, they sent me plastic as a replacement. However the notch didn’t line up in the door to make sure it was in the right position so because it was plastic I was able to cut the notch out with a multi tool and made it work. I’ve been doing laundry all week and there’s no problems

Desarme la puerta y coloque la nueva con mucha facilidad, nunca reparé un electrodoméstico antes de este, seguí el diagrama que encontré en el sitio para elegir la pieza que se rompio

remove power to machine
disco the water lines

removed the back of the washer then removed the top.

remove leaking water valve by removing the hoses then removing the valve assembly.

replaced with new,checked for leaks

reassembled washer

I am still waiting for the correct part to arrive, I was sent a part but it was the wrong part, the wrong part number and it was nothing that would work on a washing machine. I think someone else ended up with my part and I got theirs.

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.

Replaced the whole valve.

1 Pull the machine away from the wall.
2 Unplug the machine.
3 Remove three screws in the back on the machine that secure the top
4 Remove the top
5 Remove the water lines that are connected to dispenser
6 Remove the Detergent tray
7 Remove one 1/4-inch screw that secures dispenser to the washer brace
8 Remove two torques tip screws from the front of the dispenser
9 Remove the outer ring securing the washer seal
10 Disconnect the rub hose connected at the front of the dispenser at the bottom
11 Reinstall the New Dispenser in reverse order
12 Test for leaks

Replace front legs. Very easy fix.

!!!! Unplug washer and let sit for about 15 minutes before performing any repairs!!!! Remove back cover with 1/4 inch nut driver. Locate drain filter under drum and slowly remove cap to drain(it will help to catch the water that drains out with either a shallow bucket or a wet/dry shop vac). Disconnect single electrical connector on pump. Locate and remove four mounting screws with 1/4 inch socket and ratchet. Remove pump and remove as much debris as possible. Install new pump with light amount of dish soap or other lubricant on o-ring seal. Tighten mounting screws. Connect electrical connector. Reinstall back cover.

Found helpful video on YouTube
Unplugged washer and moved out from the wall leaving the drain hose intact
Used vacuum pump to suck out water from front of washer (inserted hose inside front door gasket)
Removed back cover
Checked filter on old pump(clean on buttons, screws or missing jewelry)
Positioned light and mirror inside to locate screws attaching pump
Unplugged small wire as shown on video
Used wrench and socket to remove bolt head screws
Used adjustable wrench to release clamp on hose connector to the old pump
Pulled out old pump wiped up small water drips
Installed the new pump ordered and received from partselect
Hardest part was inserting the far back screws and reversing the righty tightly mindset…
P.S. washer is up and running great!

Unplugged the unit and remove the back cover of the washer. Broken shock was the right rear one so easy access.
Used channel locks to twist the upper and lower portion of the shocks to unlock them from the washer.
Installing the new part, it is advisable to clean the washer base cover that the shock fits into. Corrosion can make it difficult to insert shock tab and twist if not cleaned. I had to use the channel locks to twist, but be careful as the locking tabs are plastic.
It is also advisable that when you have the back cover off, that you clean the washer filter.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.

Well, I am a 66 year old Grandma. I had to take off the entire back panel... no big deal ... then make sure to remember how the hose attaches to the bottom of the machine. Taking the clamp off with whimpy pliers was a little difficult due to the location. The most difficult part was laying on the floor and trying to use the stupid pliers that kept slipping off the clamp and try to shove the new hose on in the correct position. I just didn't have the grip power and manuverability to grab ... squeeze ... push the internal hose at the same time. I finally got it attached after 33 minutes. The rest of the hose attached litterally in a snap. Replaced the back panel and good to go!