TD-V10241E LG Dryer - Instructions

I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '

Removed Top, then front and drum. Parts easy to access once drum is out. Recommend reading up on drum replacement. Would appear that all repairs will require taking it out.

First I just replaced the ignitor on a hunch, (disassembly was easy once I saw the video) I also examined the high limit thermostadt and found it was tripped, so I reset the button. the dryer fired up, but soon the thermo tripped again. I found that I could reach it with my arm placed in the inspection port,( about a 4 inch diameter pop out) make sure you unplug first, find the button near the ignitor, and pop it in. the high limit thermo was only holding a few seconds, so I decided to replace it, and did a "shot-gun" approach, replacing all thermos and thermisters at once, only about 35 bucks delivered...BTW, PartSelect shipped them to me at the speed of light.....one day ! Ireplaced all thermos and did and extra scrulpoulous cleaning of the vent. NOTE: it is completely possible that ahe only problem was a reduced vent capacity cmbined with summer heat leading to tripping the high limit thermo....however the thermo was tripping waaaay too easil in my opinion. Anyway, I celebrated doing 10 loads of piled up laundry, and basking in the glory of my wife's admiration for saving a $1000. appliance replacement. "how did you know how to do this honey?" "yoir so smart" (i did'nt tell her about the PartSelect video)

First, I set my laptop up in the laundry room, and went onto Youtube, searched LG dryer repair sensor install. then went step by step, pausing the video and starting it as I went. Then I Plugged it in and it worked. For $50 and some time I was able to do it, the prices from partselect are great and the turn around on shipping was super fast. Thank you Partselect. Kevin

My lg electric dryer would not heat up. I went on line and found that the thermostats (there are two) could cause this problem. I used my dvm to ohm out the thermostats and found that the high heat thermostat was open. I replaced this thermostat and the dryer ran for a little while and then quit heating. When I checked the high heat thermostat again I found it to be open again. I then ordered and replaced both thermostats and the dryer has been working well since. The hardest part about this repair was the job of taking the dryer drum out to access the thermostats. I did however get good at doing this.

Seemed to be shutting off on the safety thermostat so I replaced them all. Works.

After replacing the wires and the heat thermostat I realze that I needed to replace the thermostat ntc and the thermostat to blower located under door was burnt during fire. I removed front panel,front facing and tumbler to reach thermostat inter wall. It was easy after fixing to other area prior. I thought it was very easy and didn't cosume much time. I'm a women and it was easy to fix.

I accessed the thermostats by removing the exhaust pipe and a plate where the exhaust can be ported on the side as an alternative. You need to get two hands inside to work. I struggled a bit before I noticed the removable access plate on theside. Took about 40 mins to get all three thermostats replaced. not too bad, but it is a tight working space.

Not knowing whether it was the pulley, tensioner, or drum roller I had previously pulled the dryer apart and noticed one roller shaft was rusty for some reason. When the part came in (which was quite fast)I disassembled the dryer to the point that I could remove the left rear drum roller. Replaced the roller and reassembled the dryer (to my surprise without any extra screws or parts left). Fairly easy job, just time consuming.

removed the top of the dryer first by removing screws in the back and pulling the top back and up. Removed the control panel, followed by the door. The front panel and top brace were then removed. The belt was disengaged by pulling the tensioner idler and working the belt off the motor pulley. The drum was lifted out and set aside with the other parts. Holding the motor shaft with vice-grip pliers, and turning the nut on the blower wheel (left-hand thread!)removed the blower wheel. The motor is held by snap-on retainers and easily removed and swapped. Installation is reverse of disassembly. While in there, cleaned out the lint gathered everywhere. Also constructed a heat shield out of aluminum flashing and foil tape to cover the foil and foam tape between the burner assembly and sheet metal side. The foam had actually burned at some point in the past and the flashing should act as a better heat shield. A relatively easy repair, but should not have been necessary in a 7 year old dryer.

Unplugged the dryer from the wall. Removed the back bracket holding the top on. Then the top will slide back and lift off. Next I removed the screws holding the control panel. Removed the door. Removed all the screws holding the front cover on. Removed the lent shoot. Manually rotated the tumbler. Checked both rollers in the front. Found one with the flat spot in it. Removed and replaced it.

Pull out dryer and unplug 220v. With phillips screwdriver, remove 3 screws from back of top and slide top panel back approx 2 inches and remove. Unplug 4 wire sets from rear of control panel. Remove 2 screws from back of control panel, carefully pull top edge and remove control panel. Remove 4 screws from top of front panel, as well as bottom 2 screws from inside dryer door. Disconnect door light wire near 10 o'clock. Pull top of front panel forward and lift off of tabs. Disconnect filter sensor wire under panel on the right. Remove 2 screws from each side of inner front panel and lift until tabs disengaged from side panels. Pull out bottom edge, carefully disengage inner front panel from drum and remove it. Try to turn roller wheels that are on the rear of the inner front panel. The wheel can get lint inside the wheel/axle and freeze. If one or both is stuck and won't turn easily, use a couple small flathead screwdrivers to carefully remove the plastic triangle retainer off of the roller assembly of the wheel that is stuck. You do not need to unbolt the axle from the panel. Wipe off the axle and inside of wheel with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. If the wheel has a flat spot from being rubbed by the drum, you will need to replace it as I did or it will make a thumping sound after cleaned and put back together. Do NOT grease or oil the wheel/axle. This will lead to more lint collection and clogging/freezing. Reverse to put back together.

Removed the exhaust duct screw and removed the duct. Hardest part of the repair was reaching in one-handed to remove the screws for the parts. Make sure that the screwdriver is magnetic. Changed parts and dryer working better than it has in months.