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Models > SSGB09WJ > Instructions

SSGB09WJ Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the SSGB09WJ
61 - 75 of 255
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The dryer door would not cut the machine off when it was opened.
Installed the new part. Worked great!
Parts Used:
Dryer Door Switch Kit
  • JEAN from KINSTON, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer not getting hot
Open top of dryer, then remove front. Coils on lower left. Unplug and replace coils. Vacuum loose lint from bottom of dryer. Replace front then top of dryer. Test run. All good !
Parts Used:
Dryer M-Series Coil Kit
  • jeff from SPARTA, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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switch clip broke
Unscrewed front panel. Pulled off unbroken wire connecter and popped switch and put new one in. Replaced front panel.
Parts Used:
Dryer Door Switch Kit
  • JEROME from NILES, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer not getting clothes dry
Dryer was getting hot at start of cycle and would drop out flame and then cycle flame every 45 sec to 1 min. Pulled of panel to observe this and thought it was a heat sensor problem. Went online and people were saying a coil could be bad. I took coils out and tested them and they tested good but I bought new ones anyway as I figured they were going out of range as they heated up, This proved correct as dryer works .
Parts Used:
Dryer M-Series Coil Kit
  • Dennis from LINDENHURST, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Squealing when running
I had already taken the dryer apart prior to changing the felt seal. Had oiled the rollers, greased the bearings & vacuumed the whole inside of the dryer out. Had used a high temp lubricant on the seal & had stopped squeaking for about a month. I ordered 2 seals & when they arrived, I popped the top of the dryer off using the putty knife to pry the spring latches. I opened the top up & leaned it against a wall. I disconnected the wiring to the light & the switch in the door, making note of the wiring order. Then used a nut driver to take the 2 screws from the inside out, that holds the front cover in place. Then the same for the 4 screws holding the front bulkhead in place. Then lifted up & out from the unit. Then used the putty knife to scrap the adhesive & old seal off the bulkhead. Cleaned as much of the adhesive off, then applied some high temp silicone adhesive to the bulkhead, placed the new seal on, using some clamps to hold it in place. After making sure it had adhered to the seal & bulkhead. Did the reversal of the above mentioned steps. Moved the unit to laundry room, plugged it in then started it & voila no more squeaking dryer.
Parts Used:
Cylinder Felt Seal
  • Eric from Carlsbad, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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No Heat from dyer
Well, this is quite easy really. I found the problem after plucking and chucking a few parts but it was finally the igniter that was the problem. After taking the front section panel off to access the components, take the time to unscrew the igniter and see if it is cracked. That is what happened to my unit. I replaced to the new M series coils as well but the issue was the igniter. Look very carefully for a crack, the one on my unit was very small. You can ohm it out with a meter and if it reads open it is cracked.
Parts Used:
Dryer M-Series Coil Kit
  • Jeff from Livermore, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Dryer not drying- gas valve coil resistance measured 'Open'.
Unplug dryer first! Remove toe panel with 1/4" nut driver on each lower corner. Gas assembly will be on the right immediately below right of drum. Use a short Phillips screwdriver to break loose two screws retaining hold-down plate on gas valve coils. I used an adjustable wrench to turn the screwdriver on screws which are not easy to apply torque to. Each coil will easily slip off stem. Disconnect catch on plug with very small flat tip screwdriver for each coil, then pull off connector. Ensure the 3-terminal coil goes to the front and the 2-terminal to the rear. Note aligning tips on coils which correspond to holes in hold down plate. Reassemble in reverse order except for toe panel. Plug in dryer and verify gas valve operation and flame presence. Replace toe panel.
Parts Used:
Dryer M-Series Coil Kit
  • Wayne from BAKERSFIELD, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Igniter works, valves open, gas Ignitestation then shuts off
All the videos said the same thing. If the Igniter works and the gas ignites bit shuts off soon after that, then the coils are bad. I bought the coils and it didn't fix the problem. My bad, I should have put my meter on it to test it before I bought the part and waited a week to get the coils. Now I'm in the process of illuminating the sensors. I will figure it out. Make sure you use the meter. It will save you the headaches.
Parts Used:
Dryer M-Series Coil Kit
  • Jon from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer would not heat.
Diagnose that the circuit is functioning up to the igniter. This is done by removing the peep hole cover on the bottom front panel, turn the dryer on and watch for a glowing igniter. My dryer would still ignite the first time because the coils would not show an "open" until they heated up. So if you see the igniter glow it is most likely your coils are bad. Remove two screws from lint trap area on top of dryer. Pry up on top panel at the two clips. Panel is on hinges, so flip it out of the way or just brace it with something enough to keep it off the front panel. Remove the two bolts from inside top corners of the front panel. Use a small punch or screw driver to push in on the tab to release the doors electrical connector. Pull straight up on front panel to remove it from bottom clips. The gas valve is very easy to get to without removing the drum. If needed for inspection or cleaning, just pull back on the belt tensioner to remove the belt from the motor and then pull the drum out. Or just use a stubby phillips screw driver to remove the bracket from the top of the ignition coils. Use a very small flat head screw driver to lift the locking tab on each electrical connector while removing. Remove the coils and place new ones in very same position (note the tab or key way of the coils faces up and are defined in the bracket). Re-assemble all parts making sure connections are tight and drum is correctly mounted. Note: if you remove the drum, return the belt back, in a loop, through the tensioner. This part hurt my head for a moment because I did not pay attention. Also a good idea to vacuum the debris and lint while your in there! As always check to make sure the exhaust pipe is clear. Have fun!
Parts Used:
Dryer M-Series Coil Kit
  • Melissa from FOWLER, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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only heats once in a while
went on line to look up the problem troubleshooting a maytag gas dryer. after checking different sites I figured that I needed a coil valve. searched for the part I needed and found the best deal on this site. I ordered the part and and by following the directions. I was able to replace the part on my own.
Parts Used:
Dryer M-Series Coil Kit
  • harold from LAS VEGAS, NV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Heat would quit working after a few minutes
Installed new coil, helped but have other issues that I'm troubleshooting.
Parts Used:
Dryer M-Series Coil Kit
  • Ron from CHESAPEAKE, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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the coils was not releasing the gas into the chamber.
I unplug the electric, close the gas valve, use the putty blade to prize up the top,unplug the electric horness, took the front door off, took the anker plate off the two coils, removed the wire from each coil,be careful not toget the wires mixed up one coil has two proms and the other has three proms after that u put everything back together the way u took it off!!
Parts Used:
Dryer M-Series Coil Kit
  • Frank from EWING, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer was drying the cloths very, very slowly
I follow the instructions provided on the your web site, the instructions were very easy to follow and to the point. In all it easier than expected. your information regarding the probability that the indicated part will solve the problem are great! That gave me a good feeling about ordering the part from you. Thanks for your help.
Parts Used:
Dryer M-Series Coil Kit
  • Bill from SAINT CHARLES, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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My gas dryer was drying intermittantly. The gas valve wasn't opening when the igniter was firing up.
rts came quickly & I got started. First, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall about a foot. this was done so the top would have clearance when it was lifted up. Next, I removed the lint trap and then took the two screws under the lint trap door out. Then you use a screwdriver(flat blade) to release the top of the dryer. The release points are about 1-2 inches from the edge of dryer. Next pull the wire connector apart so the front can be removed. The connector is on the right side, front corner, facing the dryer. There are two hexhead screws near the top on both sides. Remove the and the front will come apart as you lift it slightly. Then you disengage the tub belt. Once this is done the tub can be lifted out and set aside/ take care to remember each things position as you take it apart, so you will not get confused when you reassemble. Now the solinoid assembley is easy to get to. Use a phillips screw driver and remove the two screws that retain the bracket that holds the solinoids in place.. Lift the bracket and remove one solinoid at a time. Pull the wire from it and plug the new, like solinoid to the wire and put it back in place. then do the other one. set the bracket back over the new kit and replace the screws to the bracket. Set the tub back in, rethread the belt to the drive wheel. Next put the front back on making sure the bottom part slips into the two sides of the dryer.Replace the hexhead screws on each side; plug the wire connector together. Now , pull the lid down into position and press into place. Replace the lint trap screws and replace the lint trap. Plug dryer up and we are done. Repossition the dryer to its original place. It really was not a hard job at all. Thank-you Susan for your help and expertise.
Parts Used:
Dryer M-Series Coil Kit
  • Alfred from DELMAR, DE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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dryer not heating
replace two heating coils. Dryer working find.
Parts Used:
Dryer M-Series Coil Kit
  • Ramon from BROOKLYN, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the SSGB09WJ
61 - 75 of 255