MTW6600TQ1 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Follow the video instructions.
No brainer..

This is an easy one. Snap off the agitator cap with a screwdriver.
Remove the single but and agitator.
Remove 6 phillips head screws.
Lubricate the bearing and coax it off the spindle.

followed repair manual for code f51.ordered/replaced Rotor Position Sensor {RPS} disconnected and reconnected wiring harness at computer module and then put everything back together and that took care of the problem, It;s been working good since. that sensor was delivered the very next day. that was great. thank you

This is a cook stove that is used 5 months a year. We have not fixed it yet because we are now in Florida the stove is in New York. We ordered that part just before we left NY for FL so the repair will be done in June of 2021.
George Clark

This was the second time I did this repair, so it looks like this mechanism lasts about 3 years. I found the video instructions on your website very helpful, with one major exception. On my Maytag Bravos XL machine, there are no clips on the front of the top plate to release by pushing in a putty knife. Rather, there are two vertical brackets on the back of the top plate that are loosened or removed, and then the top can be slid forward about an inch and lifted up.

Also, the tiny electrical connection plugs are secured by plastic clips on the sides of the receptacles. Those clips just need to be spread apart a little in order to unplug the connectors; i.e., don't pull too hard on those plugs, or look for a release lever on the plugs themselves.

Repair is straight-forward. Thanks!

removed back panel, checked resistance across the thermal fuse. found no continuity, ordered fuse from Parts Select and it arrived in 3 days. removed one 1/4" hex cap screw holding fuse in place, removed 2 electric connections noting position. installed new fuse. this took a total of 10 minutes, excluding wait time for the part.
Please note, the cause of the thermal fuse melting was 10+ years of lint build up in the exhaust manifold. There is no point in replacing the fuse without addressing the cause, while we clean the lint filter regularly, the lint buildup in the manifold was appalling and glad the fuse worked. Removing the manifold and cleaning it out took another hour, but worth the time and effort.

Had to fabricate a new top holder for rod and bottom was still working. So far working great Thank God , because they don’t make them like this anymore!

Watched an instructional video many times.

It is good to watch a video on how to!
Most went well, like all repairs, there are surprises, that make It take longer than expected. Once I put it back together and ran it, there was a UL code. After reading more posts, I found UL is unbalanced. After reading more… one of the problems could be the hub on the bottom may be loose. I checked that. Yep the hex bolt was loose. I forgot to put lock tight on it. Fixed that and ran it, worked flawlessly.
It would be nice to have install instructions in the box. Otherwise watch videos.

Removed/ Replaced. Machine control motor

1st watch a video on replacement of this pump.
My main issue was the guard I had to install and the correct way to
put it in. I know I got it right.
The pump is very noisy, loud!
It pumps out just fine.
Want to know if this is normal, Loud pump.
Let me know.
Thanks, Dave

I got the three rubber elbows to quickly (at an additional price). They were the correct part and fit exactly. I replaced the aggravating spring clamps with new radiator-type screw clamps which made the job easier and in my opinion better. Then I devised a little hardware cloth "fence" around the bottom to the washer to keep the rat out. The job is tough enough in that you must tip the washer forward to get at the lower elbows. Also probably a good idea to adjust the feet "in" as far as possible to minimize rodent access from the bottom.

Just pulled the old water pump off and replaced with new one and was good to go. Thank you so much for sharing the problems and how to fix. Dean

lifted top using putty knife to push back holding clips.secured top so it did not fall. moved basket to one corner and lifted the spring up, while it was lifted remove the plastic holding rings. Then push down on holding clips that are near bottom of side of basket and the suspension rod just eases out. do that for all 4 and you are done.

The washer would enter the spin cycle, but after starting to spin, would quit, and beep repeatedly. The fault code shown was DL. The manual cited DL as Door Lock malfunction. A check of the door lock switch suggested an internal problem. Sears offered the part at a far greater price, and shipping was several times more than PartSelect.com. PartSelect was chosen, and the part ordered on-line. Within two days the part arrived. Installation was simply a matter of lifting the top of the unit on which the door is supported. IT is done by inserting a narrow screwdriver into the separation, and pressing on the two metal springs holding the top in place. The old part was simple to remove by extracting two phillips head screws and removing the cable from the cable mounts underneath the top surface then threading the cable and plug back through the cable hole. Before that could be completed, the rear cover of the control panel was also removed, and after the plug of the defective switch was removed, the new cable was connected, and threaded back through in the reverse of the removal of the old switch, the phillips head screws, the control panel rear cover and returning the unit top to the resting position and snappin it into place. The Power ON check indicated that the problem fault code was cleared. The unit functions normally with the new switch. Hats off to PartSelect. The part was available in stock, and shipped promptly, and at substantially less cost than Sears.