MHW3000BG2 Maytag Washer - Instructions

- Shut off the cold & hot water supply lines.
- Turned on a quick cycle to drain any water left in the pipes. Once no water was coming in I turned off the unit.
- Unplug the unit.
- Remove the cold and hot water lines from the back of the unit. Keep a bucket and towels nearby.
- Remove the 3 screws from the back to remove the lid.
- Pull lid back about a 1/4" and lift up.
- The valve is located at the top rear where the water hoses attach to.
- Using plyers, remove the plastic clips from the valves holding the wires. Remember the location, you will re-attach those clips onto the new valve.
- Remove the single screw holding the valve on the back of the unit.
- Slide the valve just slightly and pull it inward towards the inside of the unit.
- Remove the electronic connections by pulling on the connectors. Remember the locations as you will re-attach them onto the new valve.
- Remove the two hoses that go to the detergent container. Using plyers to squeeze the metal retaining clip, slide it back, then pull the hose off. Do this for both hoses. Remember which hose goes to where.
- At this point, just reverse these instructions to install the new valve starting by attaching the new hoses to the detergent container.
- Then attach the electronic connectors.
- Attach the valve with the screw to the unit.
- Attach the wire clips back onto the valve.
- Attach the hot & cold water lines
- Turn on the water lines and check for leaks
- Plug unit in.
- Run a quick cycle to again check for leaks inside and outside.
- Replace the lid
- Re-install the 3 screws holding the lid.

I hit spin and drain cycle. Disconnect the power cord from the wall. Remove the back cover. Stuck a bowl under the filter/ strainer. Unscrewed the filter/strainer let the rest of the water drain. Disconnect the pump /drain hose. Disconnect the wire harness from pump and removed the pump bolts. Replaced the pump reassembled.

Two people to screwdrivers, stretching the spring out and around and that’s the last part to go on

1. Unplug power, turn off water supply valves and remove water supply hoses from washer.
2. Remove three screws on back of washer for top cover.
3. Slide top cover back 1/2-3/4 inch and remove from machine
4. Remove water inlet valve set screw to left of hot water supply connector.
5. From the inside of the washer, slide the inlet valve to the left, disconnect wiring, and wire clips.
6. Disconnect hoses from back of detergent dispenser.
7. Connect hoses from new inlet valve to back of detergent dispenser
8. Connect wiring, and wiring clips to new inlet valve.
9. Slide inlet valve back into place and install set screw.
10. Replace top cover and install three screws for top cover
11. Recommend replacing supply hoses (mine leaked, and were approx. 5 years old).
12. Install water supply, turn on water, check for leaks. Plug in washing machine.

Video demonstration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH0TppbTtI0

Removed the back panel removed the drain pump installed new one

I pulled out the filter and it was not pugged so I ordered a new pump and installed it, easy to do. That took care of the fault code and it was repaired. Being who I am I took apart the old pump and found that the pump had a build up around the armature of the pump motor. I cleaned it up and reinstalled it and the old pump worked fine. Now I have a spear pump for the next it fails. Easy repair that took less than 15 minuets to fix.
Happy to deal with Parts Select they have great shipping.

I took the machine top off, then removed the control panel, removed old wire ring clamps. Removed door, removed inner clamp, water inlet tube, and bellows. Lubed up the new bellows with food grade silicone. Replaced the water inlet, inner clamp, door, outer spring clamp, reassembled the washer body and control panel and then ate a pizza.

Old dispenser part came loose from dispenser drawer area, hit the floor and broke two plastic connectors. Very small and fragile plastic tabs are all that retains the front of the dispenser drawer. Cost for those two parts over $100 retail.

Be gentle with plastic components.

Removed back panel. Remove 4 8mm sockets on pump assembly. Replace with new pump. Only difficult because of limited clearance. But I'm huge.

The top and back were already removed from front load washer. There is no lower front access panel on my washer. I followed a YouTube video that showed a similar washer model with a drain pump that looked exactly the same. This video had the washer up on a work bench for easier access. My washer is in a very tight space and the best I could do was wiggle it out and set the rear corners on bed risers. There are 4 screws that take a nut driver to loosen. My nut driver was too long to fit. My sockets were too fat to fit. I took my socket handle and put on a smaller socket, then added a nut driver from a power drill. This made it short enough to fit. One screw was totally by braille. The pump came off easily. I lubed the gasket part of the new pump with liquid soap. It was difficult for me to push the new pump up, so I used a ball hammer to wedge it up bit by bit. I was able to twist the ball hammer head enough to keep the pump up while I put the screws back. The screws finished snugging everything up. Washer works great now! This was done by a grandmother and obviously not an appliance technician.

Disconnect electrical plug. Remove rear panel from washer. Remove drain hose. Open filter on pump unit to drain water from washer ( use a catch pan to catch water) remove drain hose from drain pump unit. Remove electrical connector. Remove 4 mounting bolts. Remove drain pump assembly. Install new pump in reverse order. Once washer is assembled. Pour about a quart of washer into the drum so as not to run the drain pump dry. Enjoy your repaired washer

Took sometime to figure out the problem. A little difficult to replace part partly due to the drain pump with filter’s location in the washer. Mine is on its lower right rear. It’s reachable and yet difficult. Good luck!

replace the door lock with the parts i ordered

Unsnapped the broken assembly and then proceeded to snap the new assembly pieces in place. VERY EASY! Even for a 74 year old woman ??

The repair was easier than the troubleshooting. Figured out the hot or cold water supply valve was failing which allowed water to enter the tub via the dispenser leaving several inches of water on clean clothes or the empty cylinder.

To replace the valve you need to first shut off the hot/cold water supply and remove the hoses. (I took this time to replace the several year old hot & cold water supply rubber hoses with metal braided hoses. I also took a wire brush to the threads of the copper spigot removing any built up corrosion or gunk.) Next you need to remove the 3 1/4" sheet metal screws which secure the top panel of the washing machine. I always take a few pictures of the old part, hose, and connectors just to make sure I replace them in the same locations.

After removing the cover you can use clamp removal/installation pliers, vice grips, or a similar tool to remove the clamps for the hot and cold water to the detergent/bleach/softener dispenser.

Then, remove the electrical connectors on the valve and if you want label them with their locations on the left or right facing the rear of the washer if you want but they are pretty much self-explanatory. They have little retention clips which need to be disengaged in order to be removed from the valve assembly.

Next, remove the hoses and then the three sheet metal screws attaching the valve to back panel of the washer. Install the new valve assembly and then attach the hot and cold water hoses using the clamps to the detergent/bleach/softener dispensers. Then, attach the electrical connectors to the new valve and listen for the clip to engage and gently pull back on the connector (not the wires) to ensure they are properly attached to the valve.

Reconnect the hot & cold water supply hoses from the building pipes and turn-on both spigots or ball valves. Check for leaks and then plug in the washing machine and run a load to test the normal operation. I would leave one piece of dry clothing in the tub after running a load and leave it for a few hours to ensure the new valve is working as advertised.

If there are no further leaks, you are done! Way to go!