MDE16CSDYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I watched Steve the repairman on u tube then opened up the front of the dryer and noticed the part in my dryer was a little different than the one on the video. So I called in and I was reassured it was what I wanted. When I got the replacement part and before I removed the old part I took pictures of the wiring noticing the wires where changed from left to right I had to make up one of the 12 gauge wires and connectors with parts from the hardware store and the new part was shorter than the old part, but the machine all ready had screw holes where I needed them. I looked at my photos and wired the new part the same way I took the wires off the old part and put it back together and it works like new! saved money! the local guy is $150 to show up and start the clock. I also fixed the blower,EASY!

Followed instruction video

unplug dryer; remove dryer door; remove front cover; thermal fuse located on heater underneath and beside drum; remove two electrical leads on fuse; remove two screws holding fuse in place; install new fuse and do the above in reverse; clean lint from duct; plug dryer into

my son did the installation according to your excellent video instructions

take screws out of front of dryer, pull front off to expose drum and replace baffle

I removed the front of the dryer and the drum support plate. I drilled out the old rivets and installed the Glides with the enclose rivets. The Glides came loose in a few days! The holes in the glides are larger than in the old Glides. I disassembled the dryer again and reassembled with my rivets. This time I held the rivet gun inside the perimeter of the dryer so that the head of the rivet is opposite the initial installation. So far, so good, except the dryer still squeaks. The idler pulley is now the culprit. White grease burned up. I reassembled with high temperature grease. If that does not work, I will need another idler pulley. The journal looks very worn. the dryer is 30+ years old.

By watching a video I disassembled the front and took the dryer tub out and replace the two rollers and it took about 60 minute.

Removed door, then brackets holding top panel to side exposed after removing door. Lifted top panel to expose dryer chamber. Rotated chamber to access outside screws holding broken baffle. Removed and replaced baffle. Closed top lid, reattached to side. Replaced door. When reattaching top lid, do not tighten H/W just yet. You'll have to maneuver the hooks into place for the door to reattach. Then tighten when in place.

I followed the Part Select tutorial on Instant Repairman and retrieved the missing screws at the base of the dryer as described in the tutorial and after trying to reassemble the original baffle notice the baffle screw holes were stripped. I decided to fill the holes with a strong glue before reinserting the screw to temporarily keep the machine running until the new baffle arrived as it was just ordered the night before. When the new baffle arrived I decided to hold onto it as a spare if or when the original baffle broke off again.

Replaced the motor with a new one from partselect per the YouTube video. Had a problem with delivery of the motor. I paid for next day delivery. FedEx picked it up and it made it to the first stop, Indianapolis ok and then stopped. After a week went by I ordered a second one. That one came as promised + 1 day so I’m satisfied. The telephone people were very well spoken and attentive to my discomfort and again I’m satisfied. The motor was at least 25% cheaper than if I bought it from Maytag so the savings is significant, about $50.

There are several parts that will cause the dryer to squeak, drum roller, idler pully and the drum slides. To start, remove the door and the two opposite screws. Pull the front cover down and remove, no screws to remove, this is a snaped on piece. Next, remove the two screws holding the dryer top bracket and lift the top. Take drum support by removing the screws and then remove the belt from the motor and remove the drum. The hardest part was removing the C clips from the roller axle even with the snap ring pliers. Replace the drum rollers and reverse the process to re-assemble. Of course, the rollers weren't the problem even though they were worn out from 20 years of service. I ended up replacing the idler pully and and the idler pully support arm. If I had all of the parts prior to starting, the total time would have been about an hour. I did watch several YouTube videos before attempting the repair. That helped me understand the "how" and made it easy once I started the repair.

Removed Dryer Door and front face of dryer, total of 4 screws, turn dryer drum to position broken baffle screws, remove screws, install new baffle, attach front face of dryer and reattach dryer door. Time 15-30 min. total. Real easy. Thank You PartSelect. Maytag told me my part was no longer available, but I fold it at PartSelect.com.

Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall so front and back can be accessed. Remove front panel. Remove front drum support. Remove rear access panel. Disengage drive belt from idler wheel. Make careful note of course of belt and which side is "outward". Remove drum through front. Remove Rollers using circlip pliers. Remove nuts behind shafts. Remove shafts. Clean-up area and parts before re-install.

Install new Shafts and nuts. Grease shafts. Install new Rollers, washers and clips. Drape drive belt over drum while reinstalling from front. Remount drive belt over drive and idler pullies from the rear access. During this step it helps to have a helper to position the belt around the drum in correct fore/aft position, lying flat and without twists, smooth side against drum. Install front drom support. Rotate drum to seat belt before closing up. Install rear panel cover. Install Front panel. Plug it in and turn it on for a test.

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.

I looked on line and found a scematic from your web site to determine how to dismantel the dryer. Once I was inside I was able to determine that the drum roller was making the noise. I decided to replace the other moving part while I was inside just in case. . . Pretty easy job