LT5000XMW1 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

My wife did the repair

I would not ever consider this a repair. The dryer filter cracked because of my wife put it in loosely. The new one just fit right in.
What was so good about the entire process was how quickly I recieved the part. A matter of two days.

Excellent and super easy. Owned the box and snapped the new one in. Ready for laundry again in a matter of minutes.

I disconnected the dryer from the electric. I removed the lid to the dryer by first removing the lint door screws and prying the lid off properly. Disconnected the wires to the door switch. Removed the screws from inside the door and carefully removed teh actuator. Seperated the actuator from the switch and replaced the broken actuator. Reinstalled the actuator and switch and screwed the assembly back in place. Reconnected the wires, lowered the dryer lid and screwed the lint door screws back in place. It Worked perfectly.

You can buy the switch AND lever/latch, but partselect had lever by itself which is all I needed. Pay attention to orienation of lever around switch when you take old latch off and attach new. Also, be careful to not drop new lever behind/beneath clothes dryer drum. Took my wife and I a while to fish it out. I have replaced heating element, and other parts. At some point it will be time for a new dryer...

When i finally got sick and tired of hearing it when she used the dryer. I popped the top flipped it up unscrewed the 2 screws holding the front panel of the body on, picked up on it and pulled it off the drum. I then reached back to the rear right corner and stretched the tentioner and pulled the belt off the motor pulley.Then I picked up the belt and the drum and pulled it out of the dryer body. After seeing the drum support roller that is mounted on the base, and back of the left side I decided to go online and find this sight that had the drum support rollers as a set with the keepers and the push nut for the brace as a set for a really fair price. If your unit has a warranty "do not" take anything apart and do not order any pats until you check with your dealer. You do not want to void your warranty. I then pulled off the push nut and then i took the screw that held on the brace in front of the worn out drum roller, then pryed off the keeper and pull off the drum roller, took off the back keeper;inspect the shaft if it is not damaged ,(this one was not),then you wait until the parts arrive, yes your dryer will set in parts for about a week, but believe me in todays economy its worth "not having to buy a new dryer" at least for this small repair. When the parts arrive everything is pretty much in reverse of how you took it apart dont forget your cell phone is also a camera that can be a "memory enhancer" for when you get this far. Also be nice to your wife your going to need a little help putting it back together. Of course if she wants her dryer back she needs to help anyways. patience is a virtue and if you dont take your time and do this right it will be tested the drum and belt need to be fitted right and held up to get both the belt on the pulley and around the tentioner and get the front panel lined up on the front of the drum good luck and pass your knowledge on its getting to be a lost art.

The hardest part was removing the machine's cabinet. 2 screws on either end of the control panel, tip the control panel back out of the way and remove 2 clips, then slide the cabinet off the front. Replacing the valve was very easy. I didn't need the mounting plate that came with it. At first it looked like the screw hole wasn't going to line up with the hole in the back of the machine, but then I noticed that the valve had a groove that allowed it to slide downward on to the back. Pretty easy overall.

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

Did not hear the "clicking noise of the door switch when the dryer door was shut. First I unplugged the dryer from the socket. Next I removed the two screws that hold the lint filter receptacle. Next I pried the top of the dryer open with a screwdriver. Next I removed the two screws that held the switch actuator spring in place located just inside the top of the door. Then I removed the old spring from the door switch and replaced with the new. Not too difficult once the problem was diagnosed.

I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.

I pried open the top of the dryer, removed the 2 scrws holding the front cover of the dryer, un hooked the dryer drum buide belt, removed the dryer drum - all this just to get to the drum support roller. The bottom roller - the rubber on the wheel had been "chewed of". I can only guess because too much weight was placed in the dryer with wet clothes.
I removed the triangle shaped retaining clip, using the mini flat head screw-driver, slid the damaged roller off, replaced the new roller, and installed the new retaining clip. To install the new clip, I used a 1/2inch nut driver. I did the same to replace the upper drum support roller. The actual repair took less than 5 minutes, However, the prep time in dismanteling the dryer in order to get to the drumm rollers and puting the dryer back to gether consumed the bulk of my time.

Easy for a 87 year old.I just snapped the cover to the filter basket and then inserted the whole basket into the

Stopped by a friend who is an appliance repair person. He walked me through the Roper repair.
Removed the two screws, pulled the control panel up and back, disconnected the two wires. Sprung the two clips with a large screwdriver. That gave me the room I needed to do the repair. The hardest part was lining up the cover to go back on level. Part worked perfect, everyone was happy.

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.