LDS5040ST LG Dishwasher - Instructions

My husband was able to slide the dishwasher out, and quickly replace the old connector assembly for the new ones. The old connector assembly had broken at the “rope”. Now the door opens slowly and is as good as new.

Very simple repair. I am mechanically inclined; however, even someone who never did a repair like this can do it. The following YouTube video describes the steps. It took me about 40 minutes to complete. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyTeXK5dYMk

Loosened 3 screws and unhooked supply line and electric box and pulled it out.

Took off the broken one and snap on the new one.

Took out old rack. Put in new rack. Done.

No other assembly required.

Had to call have an installer attach a metal strip across granite counter top and they did not have the top mount brackets so I had to order them and finish the install. The dishwasher was installed on the side mounts and they missed the cabinets

When I found the problem to be the check valve I reinstalled the drive motor and water pump, ordered the part I needed,Installed the new check valve, installed the rest of the parts and did a test run which corrected the problem.

I can’t tell you how it went....ordered my parts on 11/2 and still have not received, they won’t be here For 2 weeks! I won’t get them until 11/15 and 11/16 hmmm 2 weeks for parts......

I got on line and 'chatted' with an online person. After describing the problem, she told me it had to be the water entry pump. I ordered it and put it in. VERY EASY. Then, it still didn't want to work right. It would start & stop and never get a full cycle. So I got online and looked at the diagrams provided, and decided to take off the "Filter Assembly Mesh". After already replacing the water entry pump, I took off the Filter Asssembly Mesh part (by undoing 8 screws), & found that the pump gasket was somewhat coming apart. Upon waiting for receipt of these two items, I realized that I thought it wasn't getting hot either. Once again, I looked at the provided online diagrams and ordered the heater assembly. After placing the dishwasher on its front again, I traced the connecting wires, marked them for later replacement & removed those & removed the ground wire and pulled out the old heater. Voila', its was rusted in two places. Ordered the heater. Upon receipt, I placed a small amount of Vaseline around the heater gasket prior to inserting fully. Reversed the process, assured myself everything was in and properly seated and tightened. Put the machine back in and it works great!

pulled dishwasher out of cabinet, removed side panel held by screws front and back, removed broken tension rope installed new rope, replaced side panel pushed dishwasher back into cabinet and fastened
to countertop, door works like new now, (the chief cook is happy as she can be)

The repair took right at one hour. Repair length of time will depend on what all you have to disconnect to get your dish washer out so you can remove both side panels where you will be able to access the door springs, etc. There is a door spring on each side and I recommend replacing both connectors cords while you have the dishwasher out. Mine were both broken. One thing I noticed when doing my repair was that the bracket that is on the bottom of the door was not aligned properly to the small pulley that the connector cords travels under. If yours is out of alignment you will be able to tell once you get the connector cord installed. I used heavy pliers to bend the bracket slightly inward so the connector cords rides in the center of the pulley and not off to the outside as before. This may be why mine broke in the first place. After part replacement, reinstall the door panels and put the washer back in service. There are also YouTube's of this repair so you can see what you are getting into. Basic repair.

Unsnapped broken holder and replaced with a new one. No tools necessary.

Very easy just took out two screws that held the dishwasher to counter top.Then pulled dishwasher out just far enough that both door cables are exposed.The hardest part for me was getting the spring stretched enough to clip on.This was a easy installation for most people.

I am 77 years old and got it all on but the corners did not want to go in so I had to call my grandson and he got them in. It still leaked on the bottom left side. It is getting old (11 yrs) so I decided to get a new one. It is actually pretty simple to install, but it does take a little strength.

Old door seal appeared ok, no rips and seated evenly all around. Pulled that seal out and replaced with new. Seated new door seal after wetting inserted lip. Tested...leak greatly reduced, but still dripping. Removed seal, placed a rubber rope (same rope used for screening) within the tub recess, then reseated new seal. leak ceased. Also replaced the reservoirs on the left side of the cabinet (guide assembly). Old reservoir had debris within so decided to replace. Used regular pliers for the 3 hose spring clamps underneath, and a pair of large neede nose pliers for the fill flange (regular thread).