KDPM354GPS0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed old gasket, cleaned track thoroughly, then followed instructions from video on Part Select order form. Instructions very clear and precise. Getting the new gasket was a little tedious at the corners but take your time and work the gasket with your fingers as shown on the video.

I looked up the repair on youtube and followed along step by step.
I am a 64 year old female and the job was easier to do while watching a repairman than it would have been to read instructions.
The internet is great for some things!

The repair was easy. First remove the entire rack from the dishwasher. There are three clips that hold the rack adjuster in place. It's relatively easy to see how to loosen the clips to remove the old rack adjuster. I took a couple of photos before I loosened the clips to help remember where they belong. When putting the rack adjuster it's important to move the rack height adjustment release lever up and down until the vertical part of the rack adjuster easily slides into the slot in the upper rack bracket. Once the rack adjuster in in it's proper location replace the three clips removed at the start of the procedure. Place the rack back into the dishwasher.

I turned off the power to dishwasher first. Removed bottom plate to get to leveling legs. Lowered the legs as to be able to pull and skid dishwasher out from under counter.
Once dishwasher is removed from under locate the 4 screws on right side that hold racks remove them.
I would recommend replacing both skids on both side while you have the dishwasher pulled out.
Very easy to replace new rack slid once old rack removed.
The rack come assembled with skid and plastic holders.
This repair is a 10 minute repair per side.
Thanks Bob Seese

repair went smooth for the grommet. suggest a small of vasoline to ease installation of grommet

I removed and reinstalled the new gasket per the video instructions, but I found the corners to be much harder to install than indicated. I finally used a large, flat, dull screwdriver to carefully push the gasket all the way in, and used my fingers to feel whether the gasket was all the way in. I figured if the gasket wasn't all the way in, I would have a leak at the bottom of the door because the top of the gasket would stick out farther than the bottom, which is exactly what the original symptoms were. Perhaps I didn't need a new gasket? There was no visible damage. Pushing in the corners of the original gasket may have fixed it, but the new gasket worked perfectly! Thanks, Part Select!!

Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.

The old tine row came out easily and the new one was easy to pop into place. I was pleased that it was so easy to order a replacement part.

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

put new hose on, very easy.

Removed the old tines by pushing out the clips on the end and then installed the new tines and applied clips - took 10 minutes worked slick and the washer basket looks to be brand.

Remove 2 screws on lower baseplate. Remove 2 screws that hold dishwasher inside cabinet( may be attached to counter top or side cabinets). Turn off water supply to dishwasher. Remove any connections such as water supply, electrical connection, or waste water line that prevent dishwasher from being pulled out about 3/4 of the way. With the dishwasher door closed, remove broken parts and replace with new parts. Pull on spring to make final connection of nylon cable. Reverse the above instructions for re-installing the machine.

It was easy to remove the old parts by using a screwdriver to push in “tabs” that kept retainer clips in place. Once removed, it was a matter of easy assembly in reverse and then re-clip. It became clear that the problem was because a few tabs that click into the sliding track and worn to the point where they no longer retained a tight connection to the track causing the upper rack to tilt with weight to front or back. Sure, the parts are a bit pricey but not when compared to a repair visit or a new KitchenAid which otherwise was functioning perfectly.

This was tricky, not so much the difficulty of the repair so much as finding the right instructions. There weren’t any on your website. YouTube videos were all over the place in terms of specific set ups. Eventually I found the right one. This would have been very easy and would have taken less than 15 minutes if I had the right instructions from the start. Most of my time was taken with searching for instructions.

Remove entire top rack and place on a large flat work surface. A small screwdriver is needed to release several plastic clips holding the upper drawer slider brackets and manifold in place. Carefully pry the clips free of their mounting holes and remove the bracket. Take some time to study how things are held together before removing anything since one plastic clip is closely affected by the others. Without pictures, and a video, it's really difficult to put into words. I must stress, do not force anything. When disassembling, use the opposite side to as a visual aid to reassemble.