JFC2290VPR2 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions
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Bulb wouldn't light up, when freezer drawer was pulled open
The repair didn't get done, because both times that I requested a 25-Watt Light Bulb, I received a 3.6 Watt bulb instead & neither one worked. So I tried testing the original bulb in a table lamp & it worked. So I sense that the problem may be in the switch that allows the light to turn on when the drawer is opened & shut off when the drawer is closed.
Parts Used:
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Dennis from LOUISVILLE, KY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Snapped the deli drawer lid holders.
Watched numerous U tube videos to prepare ourselves as well as instructions from other posters. Tried to pay attention on how we disassembled thing with limited success. Installing the new end caps proved to be easier that we expected since they weren’t screwed in but just snapped in. We think that’s because it’s a newer model that what we saw on U tube.
Parts Used:
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Christine W from BAINBRIDGE IS, WA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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The water supply line to the ice maker kept popping off after I replaced the water filter because an "ice plug" had formed in the fill tube, unbeknownst to me.
1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.
Parts Used:
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Michael from TAKOMA PARK, MD
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
5 of 5 people
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Did not need filter
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Geraldine from MUNDELEIN, IL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
5 of 6 people
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Broken light switch
Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked
Parts Used:
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Terry from WARMINSTER, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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Ice maker not making ice.
Removed old ice maker by removing 3 screws, unplugged wiring harness. Replaced with new ice maker, placed three screws back to secure the ice maker, plugged wire harness back, and product is working well at this time.
Parts Used:
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Sonny from WHITESTOWN, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people
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Bottom freezer ice maker quit making Ice
Used a deep well 1/4" nut driver. Loosen 4 screws on inside of door and slip it up and off rack. Remove 2 screws on bottom of ice maker. Loosen top 2. Slip up of screws, unplug ice maker and remove.
Parts Used:
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JimBob from CRAWFORDSVLLE, AR
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
4 of 4 people
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Broke the Rocker Switch in Fridge side
Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.
But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.
Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.
But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.
Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.
Parts Used:
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Sung-Su from BISMARCK, ND
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 4 people
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The hinge pin /axel for the deli lid on the end cap broke off.
I used “ Bruce from KIRKLAND, WA” instructions.
Without it, I may still be struggling to remove it. These are his notes summarized.
Remove both humidifier drawers
Remove the glass shelf
Remove the deli drawer and lid
To remove the end cap (either side) there is a plastic tab to push down on just over halfway back and then you can slide the front of the end cap up and out.
THE PLASTIC TAB IS THE KEY!! ---^
To install the new end cap, reverse this process.
The trickiest part is then re-inserting the deli drawer and the lid.
Getting the lid onto the two axles was a bit of a struggle as the fit is very tight.
Huge thanks to Bruce from KIRKLAND, WA!!!
Without it, I may still be struggling to remove it. These are his notes summarized.
Remove both humidifier drawers
Remove the glass shelf
Remove the deli drawer and lid
To remove the end cap (either side) there is a plastic tab to push down on just over halfway back and then you can slide the front of the end cap up and out.
THE PLASTIC TAB IS THE KEY!! ---^
To install the new end cap, reverse this process.
The trickiest part is then re-inserting the deli drawer and the lid.
Getting the lid onto the two axles was a bit of a struggle as the fit is very tight.
Huge thanks to Bruce from KIRKLAND, WA!!!
Parts Used:
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William from DENVER, CO
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 4 people
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Thought motor was bad freezer cold fridge hot
Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well
Parts Used:
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Wayne from PENNINGTON, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
4 of 4 people
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Light switch that causes light to turn on when door is open was nroken.
Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.
Parts Used:
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John from WASHINGTON, DC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
4 of 5 people
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Ice maker replacement
Loosen the top 2 screws, remove the bottom screw, unplug the wire harness, lift up the ice maker and remove. To install the new one simply reverse the removal procedure.
Note: You may want to wipe the inside of the new one to remove the protective grease or discard the first 2 cycles of ice.
Note: You may want to wipe the inside of the new one to remove the protective grease or discard the first 2 cycles of ice.
Parts Used:
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John from CENTEREACH, NY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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noise damper motor rattle
Very easy to fix . It was harder to empty the contents out or the refrigerator than to repair . The diagrams on this site were very helpful in identified the part. and it was delivered in 5 days.
Parts Used:
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JOSEPH from LTL EGG HBR, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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The Right Pantry Drawer support pin for the lid had snapped off
The Youtube Video was Extremely helpful--the model they worked on was a Whirlpool, and is held in with 1/4" machine screws. The KitchenAid is largely identical, but doesn't use screws. There is a plastic release you depress to free the Right Support from the cabinet. Otherwise, the process is identical to what's shown on the Youtube video. The Fridge "came with" when we bought the house, and we've already replaced the door seals using this website (another easy fix). Of course, when gently reinstalling the lid I snapped the pin on the Left Pantry Drawer support. So i've ordered that part too--i'll chalk it up to age/wear&Tear. The Left is much easier than the Right, as the Right Support has a sliding humidifier setting slide. So the Right is slightly more involved, but is also an easy fix. No tools required at all for either drawer support on the KitchenAid. Just be very patient and gentle as you re-install the drawer lid.
Parts Used:
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James from COHUTTA, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Fridge had a clicking noise
Unscrew decorative plastic cover. Unsnap old damper assembly and disconnect wire connector. Snap in the new assembly and plug in the wires. Replace decorative cover.
Parts Used:
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Theodore from JACKSON, WI
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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