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JB850EF2ES General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JB850EF2ES
31 - 45 of 141
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switch went to high setting no matter what the setting was
took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..
Parts Used:
Range Surface Element Control Switch 6 Inch 1560 W
  • Frank from Glen Cove, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
10 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven light did not work
Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.
Parts Used:
Range Light Housing
  • Howard from Rio Vista, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Red Light On
Red Light Off
Parts Used:
Range Surface Element Control Switch 6 Inch 1560 W
  • Lawrence from DECATUR, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven in accurate temp too low.
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
Parts Used:
Range Temperature Sensor
  • Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Inside burner did not heat
Disconnect old burner and reconnect new one
Parts Used:
Haliant Element
  • Roberto L from LAUREL, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven temperature would not go above 240 degrees
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
Parts Used:
Range Temperature Sensor
  • Glenn from Grapevine, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
Parts Used:
Range Temperature Sensor
  • Mary from Bolton, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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12" Haliant Element would only work on the outer ring.
Watched repair videos on YouTube to prepare. The repair was very easy.
Parts Used:
Haliant Element
  • William from RICHMOND, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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F2 error; over heating, unknown reason
I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part
Parts Used:
Range Temperature Sensor
  • Tim from LEAVENWORTH, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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The stove top had a 12” double burner that only outside burner was working
Ordered the part, turned off the circuit breaker, test to see that power is off, take a 5/16” nut driver, and remove the 2 screws under the front of the stove top, then lift the top up and hold it up with an old 2x4 about 24” long. All the connections are plug and play, so I took some needle nose pliers, to pull all 5 wires off of the burner. Then all that’s left to do is remove 3 spring clips. That was easily done by inserting a flat screwdriver into the back of each clip and pry them out. It ended up being a very easy fix. There is Utube videos to show you how to do it.
Parts Used:
Haliant Element
  • Mark from SEYMOUR, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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burner inside element not working
Being a front burner, I used a 24 in piece of wood to hold up range top. After removing to screws holding top. Made note of numbers on old burner and wire locations. Took off wires and three spring clips. Then replaced with new in numbered locations , wires next
Parts Used:
Haliant Element
  • Daniel from BURLINGTON, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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the temp was not accurate
had to remove the oven from the wall. once i realized that i had to take the side wall brackets off before removing the oven it was quite easy. then just had to remove oven door and slide the unit onto a chair while replacing the sensor. put it all back in and the wife was so happy to have her oven back she made me a batch of brownies. yum.
Parts Used:
Range Sensor
  • scott from new harmony, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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surface burner switch was burned
After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove the swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
Parts Used:
Range Surface Element Control Switch 6 Inch 1560 W
  • abbas from redmond, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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GE oven showed "F2" error code and was over-heating
I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.
Parts Used:
Range Temperature Sensor
  • Kyle from AURORA, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the JB850EF2ES
31 - 45 of 141