IMH15XRQ1 Whirlpool Microwave - Instructions

I found the part number for the mount on the appliances company website. Once I had that I visited a few sites looking for part. This site was easy to use and priced right, so I ordered. A few days later the product arrived as promised and worked perfectly for the install.

I looked up a YouTube video of someone with a similar over the oven microwave. That helped me get into the area behind the control panel where the door switches are. I checked the springs and the cam rocker? The thing that actually hits the button on the switch when the door closes. They were in good condition so I assumed the door switch was bad. There are two so I just purchased one figuring (hoping) that only one was bad. And lo and behold only one was bad. Bing bam boom. Put it all back together and I'm set. Not too difficult. Took a week of work because it takes like 50 days to ship. My kitchen looked like a hurricane after image because of all the parts scattered everywhere.

KitchenAid Microwave [Model: KHMS 145 JBS-0]Door Handle Repair
Tools and Parts
• Door Handle [Part # PS390101]
• Putty Knife
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Tray (cup) for parts during disassembly/reassembly (3 screws on door; 2 screws on handle; spacer on top-door edge).
Instructions
• Preparation
o Disassembly can be managed with the door mounted on the unit. The handle is attached by 2-screws that can be accessed only by separating the outer/inner door panels.
o Before starting the project, watch the Youtube.com video for a GE Microwave, which is the most applicable video for removing the collar [i.e., plastic bezel around the viewing window on the inner door) and for separating the outer/inner door panels ].

• Remove the collar
Photo 1: Inner-side clip (bottom of collar) used on
3-sides of the collar (top edge is a spacer) Photo 2: Hinge side clip (right edge)

o As indicated in the video, small clips are on the inner-side of the collar on 3-sides (top, bottom, and open-door edge).
o The clips are on the outside of the collar for the door-hinge side.
o These clips are small and somewhat fragile – once a few are popped, finger pressure will generally pop the remaining clips.


• Separate the outer/inner door panels

Photo shows the inner/outer doors separated, and the 3-screws removed.
o Remove the 3-screws on the door edge before separating the outer door panel.
o There is a plastic spacer on the top, outside edge of the door that is not cemented. Remove the spacer after separating the door panels.
o Use a putty knife to pop the clips for the outer-door panel around the top, bottom, and open-door sides.
o The top door corner (the spacer edge) is tight and should be gently pushed back.
o The outer door panel will remain attached on the hinged edge and function like a second door – move gently.
o The viewing glass is clamped in place; but, handle with caution.

• Remove the Door Handle
o With the outer/inner panels separated, remove the two screws holding the handle and remove the handle.
o Retain the screws for later use.

• Install the new Door Handle
o Reuse the original screws (Note, [Part # W10841091 – screw] is a different thread, and is not self-tapping)
o The door-handle screw holes are not tapped; so insert the old screws in the handle to tap before installing the handle, leaving approximately 1/8 - 3/16” exposed.
o Remove the screws and reuse to install the handle.


Comparison of 2-original screws vs. replacement screw (note thread gauge differences).
• Reinstall the Outer Door Panel
o Align the spacer with the inner-panel edge in the upper corner.
o Close the outer panel, gently snapping the clips into place.
o Reinstall the 3-screws on the door edge.

• Reinstall the Collar
o Snap the hinge side in place.
o Gently snap the remaining sides in place

I ordered the part according to the Model number, inserted the part very easily, (and I am soooo challenged in that area) and now it turns again. :)

Instead of telling you, i have question do you have any instructions on how to do the repair. It would have helped save time on the repair.

This job took longer then it should have, becasue I did not start right in the begining. I did figure it out quickly after the wrong start.

You were a big help in picking the right part to correct the problem. You should be able to help with the repair. Thank You

I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.

When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.

All seems to be working well now.

Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?

I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!

Replaced bulb by: 1 pulling plug on microwave to make sure not hot - no power; 2 used needle nose pliers with head part about same size that fit inside of socket; 3 opened pliers and held firm against broken metal part; keeping pressure of pliers against broken metal part of light bulb, slowly unscrewed the broken part from socket using firmly held opened pliers. The rest was a cinch...just screwed in new light bulb, plugged in microwave and viola - there was light once again.

It was a bit awkward because the microwave is mounted over my stove. I had to twist around and install the bulb and then replace the cover. It was a bit uncomfortable. It took me about 10 minutes to complete.

Don't waste your time with other parts stores online. Partselect sells quality parts and they arrived 2 days early. I purchase a door switch from another online store and the switch was defective.

Removed the microwave from above the oven by loosening the two screws above the microwave. As the unit tilted outward lifted up and the whole unit came out all the time feeding the power cord through the cutout for the power cord. After it was out removed the cover and identified the capacitor and made sure it was discharged and removed and replaced the diode. tested before reinstalling and it heated up just fine. Reversed order and reinstalled . Very easy job maybe a second hand to help fish the power cord when installing and removing.

Take off top facing over microwave using screwdriver also protection plate for diode and capaitor. Disconnect diode from frame, bracket to capacitor then remove, disconnect wires leaving diode on capacitor for right connection, replace, rewire done.

I didn't have to remove the old cover since it cracked and fell off the microwave already. I simply snapped in the new vent cover, screwed in the 2 screws and I was done. Super easy.

I removed the two screws and took off the old grill. Snapped the new grill in place and replaced the screws. This model was not shown on the list but the part fit just fine. The part arrived in 2 days! I ordered the white one and at first didn't think it matched .. maybe my microwave was bisque or almond .. but after 15 minutes of scrubbing I realized it was white but just real dirty .. lol. Now the door opens without the grill falling off. Easy fix.

Remove the two screws to the plastic vent strip at the top of the unit. That exposes a metal cover (upper right) held in place by two more screws. (Found that removing the screw holding the key panel in place and moving that out of the way made for more work room) Remove the metal cover. The HV diode (visible) on one end is secured to the chassis by a screw. The other end is fitted to the HV capacitor. So unscrew one end and pull the HV diode off the capacitor. The replacement fits on like the old one came off. Very simple repair. But it would be safe to short the capacitor terminals to the chassis first. Noticed that it appeared the sparking was caused by the HV diode's outer casing being worn by the asbestos covered wire next to it and laying against it. I made sure the two were not touching, before putting the covers back on. Also, the problem started with an occasional spark when the MW started. It quickly deteriorated to a full, non-stop electrical sparking. You can hear it, smell it, and see it through the top vent. You don't need to remove unit to work on it.