HVM1540LN2CS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.

Removed upper cover. Removed screws in cover plate & motor mount. Removed inner cover with pop screw inside microwave. Reversed procees to install new motor.

The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.

Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.

Had trouble isolating the problem, so I had a repairman identify the problem, then I ordered the part and replaced it myself.

Removed screws holding the grill in place. Removed air filter, removed screw holding plate under the filter in place. Reached in under fan cowling to find the thermostat cut-out. Disconnected the two wires. Put the new thermostat in place. Replaced screws plates and filter in reverse order.

Turntable coupler broke due to plastic wrap getting tangled, top part came out easy, other piece that broke did not come out so easy. Placed used stocking over shop vac end and vacuumed out broken piece, replaced with new coupler. Done.

Pulled micro off the wall, took side/top cover off to get at the cooling fan behind the control panel. Unplugged wires and removed control panel to ease the removal of the cooling fan. Two screws hold the fan. Pretty easy job.

All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.

took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel

This particular microwave is the over the range type, with an exhaust fan at the top and charcoal filters over the stove. Then to the side is the control panel for the microwave oven. You have to get into this to get to the fan. To do this, you have to take off the vent trim at the top of the microwave. Two screws. Open the front door and gently wiggle once the screws are out. Care must be taken with this because over time the channels that the screws go in can break, and then once that happens there's nothing to hold the vent into the oven. (I've replaced this once when both screw openings simply crumbled). Once it's off, there is a screw under it at the top of the control panel that needs to come out. There's another screw at the bottom of the control panel. Then, you slide the panel up about a half inch and then you can pull it out. After that, you can see the fan in there. There are two screws holding it in and a bunch of wires all around it. Pull out the multipin connector on the fan. There is a second plug-in wire that you may need to use pliers to get a grip on it. Pulling out a couple other nearby wire connectors will help loosen it all up so that you can move the wiring harness out of the way and tilt the fan out and remove it. Looking at the old fan, the bearings were tight and worn out, and that was the problem. It's not a particularly well made fan. Very simple open-frame motor with moving parts exposed, so it probably through the years ingested oil vapor from cooking, etc. Tilt the new fan into position, put the two screws back in and re-insert the wire connectors. Then all you need to do once all the wiring is neatly dressed again is put the panel back on, the two screws top and bottom, and lastly reinstalling the long vent at the top, (two long screws). Do that, and you're done. The microwave sounds fine now and works great.

I initally thought the problem was the turn table motor but after installing that motor & not being successful I realized the problem was the stirrer motor.Removing & insalling that motor was a bit more challenging but worth the effort as I saved either the cost of a repair technician or the puchase of a new one.The microwave is back in service & running fine.

took of cover removed switch and replaced with new one

Rather than open access door took off bottom (5 screws) This gave more room as the microwave is mounted under the wall cabinets over the stove.

I unscrewed the entire undersurface of the microwave (I didn't do this before!) and replaced the light socket. Easy job and I'm glad the part was still available.

Removed the 7 screws holding the bottom of the microwave cover, also opened the access covers to the lights. Damaged socket was easily replaced along with both bulbs and the broken lens, then resecured the covers. Top front cover was removed (2 screws) and the new filter was inserted, then the cover replaced. Very easy, about 15 minutes, without any injuries!