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GUD27ESSMWW General Electric Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

All Instructions for the GUD27ESSMWW
46 - 60 of 123
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BELT SQUEAKING
TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Al from CORP CHRISTI, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Drum would not turn
Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Jeff D from NEW MEADOWS, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer needed a new dryer belt
I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Cindy from EPHRATA, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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No power to dishwasher
Replace both micro switches.
Parts Used:
Dryer Switch
  • Robert from OLD TOWN, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Switch not working.
Open the door and removed the part. Installed the new part and started the dryer.
Parts Used:
Dryer Door Switch
  • Alan from BELFORD, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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drive belt is broken.
Follow the instructions from YOUTUBE to replace the new drive belt..
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Phuc from WOODBRIDGE, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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dryer belt snapped
Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley.

It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.

If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Michael from Laurel Springs, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would shut off on heat dry after a couple of minutes. I could feel the heat working. It would only continue to run on fluff/no heat
Pulled the drum an found spade clip burned on wire. Hi limit Thermostat crumbled/ broke while pulling spade clip so I trimmed back the wire, cleaned the spade clip and soldered the wire back on. Isolated the other thermostats in the system and tested for resistance. Reassembled dryer.
Parts Used:
High Limit Thermostat - L315-65
  • Dave from Wallingford, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Replace dryer front bearing slides
If your dryer is making a grinding or loud plastic rubbing noise, you likely need to replace the slides. Here is how I did it.

TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.

IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.

Step 1: Remove the control panel

To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.

Step 2: Remove the lid

There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.

Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses

Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)

Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to

There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.

Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)

There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.

Step 5: Replace the slides

The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.

Step 6: Putting it all back together

Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.

It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.

Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!
Parts Used:
Dryer Bearing Slide (2 Pack) Dryer Bearing Slide (2 Pack)
  • Darin from MEDINA, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Washer not draining
Ensure washer drum is empty of water before attempting repair. Disconnect the power to the appliance. Remove the front washer panel (a metal putty knife if needed to unlock the two upper tabs which releases the panel). Locate the existing drain pump at the bottom of the unit. Disconnect the two wires from the drain pump motor (one orange, one black/white). A pair of pliers and a gentle pull should do it. Using a small ratchet and socket, loosen and remove the two bolts that secure the drain pump to the bottom panel of the washer. Using a pair of pliers, squeeze the factory hose clamp on the large drain tube that connects the pump to the drum and remove the hose from the pump, being careful to capture any residual water from the drum. A towel is helpful to absorb the water. Repeat for the smaller discharge drain tube located on the side of the pump. Once both tubes are disconnected, remove the old pump. Install the new pump and reconnect everything in reverse order. Connect the small drain tube to the side of the pump. Connect the large drain tube from the drum. Ensure the clamps are properly secured. Insert and hand-tighten the two bolts that secure the pump to the bottom panel of the washer, making sure the bolts are snug but being careful not to overtighten. Reconnect the two wires to the motor. Restore power to the appliance. Run a quick wash cycle to ensure pump is working correctly and check for any water leaks. When satisfied, reinstall and secure the front washer panel.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Eric from HAMPTONVILLE, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
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Loud noise
With the help of doityourself guy on the internet
Parts Used:
Dryer Drum Bearing Sleeve
  • Mary from Enterprise, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Broken drive belt electric dryer
Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • brian from pittstown, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Belt was broken
Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • William from Tupper Lake, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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water leak when draining
loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • wayne from rock city, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
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turned switch to run but dryer wouldn't.
I removed the two screws inside the door and popped the top loose. I took the top off to see and have access to the interior. I leaned the front out and inserted the belt around the drum (with my wife's help), replaced the screws and laid the dryer on it's face on a rolled up blanket and proceeded to run the belt around the pulleys (two). The drive pulley was easy but the idler pulley, not so easy. I had to figure out how the pulley arm was supposed to provide tension on the belt. I figured it out by looking at the diagram. It was then I found the idler pulley was broken and fell apart in my hand. I advise that a new pulley be installed at the same time as the belt. Everything I read on your web site helped.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • BRAD from Vancouver, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the GUD27ESSMWW
46 - 60 of 123