GTW335ASN1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

6y/o washer.
First checked lid switch. It turns out that the connector was disconnected. Probably became disconnected after the shaking from an unbalanced load. Reconnected and worked for three loads, then failed to spin again.

Purchased switch kit, belt and mode shifter, but held off the replacement. Parts select shared the diagnostic sheet. You can find yours inside the washer in a Ziploc bag. Tilt washer back and look underneath.

Went through diagnostic codes and all checked out fine. Did a fault reset. Worked again for three loads then failed to spin. GE sent a tech ($109 for service call). His diagnosis read-out showed rods/springs needed replacement. Parts arrived in three days and took about 45 minutes to r&r (I marked the new ones with a marker when unpacking to avoid confusion). USE VISE GRIPS AND.INSTALL FROM THE TOP. DO THE REAR.ONES FIRST Afterward, three loads done fourth load no spin.

Replaced lid switch with the kit. Again 3 loads fine, 4th load spin fail.

Note; each unplug & replug in resets the error codes, which may explain the 3 load temporary fix.

Did more research...

Finally, replaced old lid switch with lid switch kit (old switch was functioning fine, but I had the kit, so replaced it, in the event it was throwing an error code. Again 3 loads fine, 4th failed to spin.

Tilted washer back 45° for bottom access. Removed old belt. Belt and pulleys were loaded with grease/oil. Pulled both pulleys and scoured them. Replaced mode shifter. Note; old belt was about 3/4" larger diameter than new belt. Part#s matched, so it was the correct belt. Obviously the old belt was very worn. Oil/grease may be a combination of two things 1-slight leak from transmission seal, without any puddles on the floor and 2- the heat from the worn belt degrading the petroleum within.

While under the washer, removed the pump and hoses, checking for obstructions in the hoses and impeller. None found.

While underneath I grabbed the tech sheet from inside wall.

Checked the capacitance of the capacitor. Spec on the capacitor is 60 +/-5%. Mine tested at 61.1...within specs. (Be sure to discharge capacitor safely first!)

Reassembled the machine. Working fine through fifteen loads so far.

Final note. YouTube videos for all these steps online.
Conclusions; mechanically easy repair for DIYer. Probable causes...Belt worn, mode shifter and rods/springs worn out.

Total cost ~$200 parts + $109 for GE tech call.
Labor ~3 hours, but only because of so many disassembly re-assembly attempts at repair. Had it all been done at one time, total time would've been <1.5 hours

Thanks parts select and Barb (you're awesome)

The drain pump had three screws. Frist unplug the machine and turn the water off. And unplug the hose for the Hot and Clod Water. Make sure their no water in the tub. Unplug the pipe from the Tub. The unscrew the nut for the connector. Then unplug the connector and be careful not to damage plug for the connector. Press the plug connector with your finger or long nose pliers . Then just hook the new plumb and you all set.

Disconnect water lines.
Remove top control panel.
Remove 2 screws & disconnect wires & replace old for new

Unplug machine
Move machine out from wall
Removed 4 screws on back plate
Removed the 2 screws holding the assembly to washer
Pulled old unit out and reversed process to put back together

But when I went to test it would not drain tipped washer up and removed hose from motor and found a sock inside
Remove sock and washer runs great.

Just a note this website was very helpful in finding the right part with the exploded view of parts

Thank you

Unplugged the washer, turned off water supply to washer, using channel lock pliers disconnected hoses to valve assembly, using nut driver removed two screws on back of console, pulled console away from top exposing valve, disconnected wire harness from valve assembly, using nut driver removed two screws holding valve assembly in place, removed defective valve assembly, transferred foam spacer from defective valve assembly to new valve assembly and installed new valve in opposite order of removal.

I watched a video on a few times that PartSelect sent me about how to make the switch from the broken lock set to the new one. And it really went just as the video showed. So far things are working.

Put the parts in, turned washer on.....lid lock still blinks, will not operate. Suggest the control board that sends the signal to the solenoid lid lock switch is defective. Buying a new washer, scrapping this one.

Unpluged the washer first got as much water out of the drum as possible the leaned the washer over forward and let it rest against something removed hose clamp from pump side and removed the drain hose from pump remove plastic cover and unplug pump push tab and pull remove bolts from pump remove pump install all components in reverse be sure to replace pump to drum seal as well

any electrical device unplug the power cord. I followed the instructions the best I could understand them. but once the part was removed I took pics from my cell phone of how the wiring ran, and also what other connections I had to undo. all connections were made, connected the hot n cold hoses, plugged into the washer no beeps or sounds as before opened the hot n cold water valves, and the tub was being filled with water. could not turn on the washer, no lights or beeps... so I gave up I spent too much time on this machine and money too, hope to get an RMA for the Lid Switch assembly

Once I determined it was the drain pump, (by taking off the drain hose and letting it empty by gravity, then running the spin cycle which worked ok) I ordered the part, got confirmation from PartSelect.com that it would fit my washer. I removed the old pump taking out the 6 screws needed to hold it and the cover in place and unplugged the electric connector. I installed the new pump from PartSelect.com using the same cover and 6 screws and electric connector. I reconnected the drain hose and the washer has worked perfectly since then!

Unplugged the machine, pulled it away from the wall, didn’t have to disconnect water lines, set the parts out on the counter as I went over the instructions a couple of times, followed the directions, plugged it back in, worked perfectly again.

Leaned washer back to get to motor. Loosen screws to remove belt cover. Slipped old belt off, cleaned both spinals off, slipped new belt on. Have a good day!

I replaced the Pump Drain assembly. It was very easy. Removed 3 bolts and disconnected the electrical wire harness and put new one on. It works great.

Unplug the cord and shut off hot and cold water faucets.

headache avoidance: The male threads of the inlet valve are plastic. Gently turn the female hose ends onto them at the kitchen table with the eventual position in mind then tighten.

1. Remove 4 screws holding shiny metal backplate w/ 1/4" socket (easy)
2. Pry tabs loose, top of plate (easy).
3. Pull electric leads from 2 solenoids (easy).
4. Remove 2 long screws holding upper painted structure (easy).
5. Remove 2 screws holding valve in place (easy).
6. Tilt and slide the valve loose and pull it out (easy).
7. Replace valve and reverse steps 6-1.

n.b. no inside water tubes; water drips straight into tub

Also, an hour should be enough. I spent more time than needed guessing, dealing with a few issues, opening the machine again, starting over, etc.

ps. I guessed at the age.

Look it up on YouTube to see how to repair the problem. Unscrewed the necessary screws. Took apart the top, pop open the loader replace the bezel. Put everything back together again. Was simple.