GTW330ASK2WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Drain all the water out of the tub with a shop vac
Remove rear drain hose and drained rest of water into a bucket
Remove small rear panel (bottom left hand corner) where the drain hose connects
Tipped washer up about 45 degrees to get underneath it - Supported it with a few paint cans
Remove internal drain hose/clamps from pump - w/ pliers
Remove belt cover (gray plastic) with socket - 3 bolts
Remove wire assembly plug from socket
Remove old drain pump with socket - 3 bolts
Install new drain pump - 3 bolts - plug wire assembly into socket
Reinstall belt cover - 3 bolts
Reinstall hose to drain pump (note panel will be inside washer)
Feed drain hose panel through hole and reinstall - 1 nut
Re attached drain hose to exterior drain plug
You are done !

Very simple to repair. Be sure to drain the tub outside or into the sump pump then lay the washer on its side. The pump is right there on the bottom of the basket with 3 bolts. You will also need to remove the belt cover to get to the plug. So simple and saves you hundreds off repair man prices.

I thought it was the control board from the onset, but 'Online experts" said it was more likely the mode shifter or the lid lock. I ordered one of each, did not correct problem. Ordered the control board that was designated for this unit, it did not correct problem. Defective? Was send replacememnt, did not fix problem. Twice? Phone conversation with parts person, and after a little digging, it was NOT the correct board, correct board was not available.
Returned all parts, refunds all around. Ordered correct board from another site, installed, programed, SUCCESS! Total repair time/installation-less than 15 minutes. Getting the correct part 30 days.

part select help

The replacement part looked absolutely nothing like the defective part. The old part was easily accessible and was easily unplugged from the wiring harness. I assume when the new part came, I would just plug it into the wiring harness, snap some of the trim pieces in place and be done. 5 minutes. But no. The replacement part was completely different and came with its own wiring harness and length
of wire which had to be installed. The installation of the wiring harness was extremely complicated which involved popping off the control panel of the washer, prying up the top and disconnecting some other pieces to complete the install. There should have been a clear warning on the replacement part, that it was completely different and likely too difficult for a non-professional repair man.

Replacing was easier than opening the box it came in. Used a 7/16 socket and a few extensions to reach the bottom of the agitator. It came out super quick cleaned out the fabric softener older than my kids from under it. Lined up the groves of the new one and it slid easily. I took a small piece of painters tape and crumbled it into a small ball and put it in the socket to keep the bolt in place while it lowered it into the agitator. Made it snug and we were back in business good as new!!!

Tilt washer back.
Remove belt gaurd.
Remove belt.
Remove pulley.
Remove clutch and shifter.
Install in reverse order

Lift up door removed lid lock with screwdriver installed new part

Laid washer on the floor to expose the bottom. Cleaned up the residual water that leaked out on to my hardwood floor. Removed the three nuts that hold the belt cover on. Slipped off the two year old stretched, oil soaked serpentine belt. Cleaned the rugged plastic pulleys with alcohol. Put on new belt. Small serpintine pully first, then rotate pulley to install belt to large pulley. Easy fix but doomed to fail again soon. Seals are Junk on the transmission. They leak oil already. Washer is JUNK. Not my first rodeo with GE garbage. It needs a new transmission to truly fix the problem. When it fails again out to the curb it goes. 2 years old, just two in the house so usage was minimal. No more GE appliances for me.

Put washer on it side. Removed shield belt and pulley from motor.
Unplugged and unsnapped speed sensor and replaced with new one . Washer spinning like it should. Problem solved

Use putty knife to unlock top panel from base. Remove 2 bolts from back of washer holding control section. Don't take completely off. 2 bolts needs to be removed to unsecure top from base. Lastly 2 screws hold lid in place. Remove lid. Slide top panel to left just to access lid lock. Unplug sensor. 1 screw and tabs hold lock in place. Watch position coming out so you don't get confused putting new lock in. Squeeze tabs, replace screw. plug in sensor. Reverse procedure to put top section back together.

You will need to shut off the water, unplug the washer, disconnect the water lines, disconnect and drain the drain line, tip the washer either at an angle or on its side, remove motor cover, disconnect drain pump electrical cable, remove drain pump, install new drain pump, reconnect drain pump electrical cable, reconnect drain line and water supplies, turn water back on and test the washer.

Note: I thought the drain pump was bad for 2 reasons. 1 was the washer had previously started to smell, indicating the washer might not be fully draining. 2 was that the washer would agitate (meaning motor seemed fine) but when it would normally start draining before spinning, the washer would do nothing (could hear a faint hum coming from the washer).

Unplug the connector to the old lock release. Plug the connector into the new lock release. Snap in the tabs that hold it into place. Then the bezel just snaps in and you're good to go!

Removed the two 1/4" hex screws (one on each side of the control panel). Lifted the control panel off and let it hang behind the washer. Removed the connector on each side of the valve assembly. Removed the two 1/4" hex screws on the valve assembly and lifted the assembly out. Reversed the process to install.

year and a half old unit.
The Mode selector failed to properly engage the gears and gears were grinding.
O moved dryer out of area. And then turned off water, disconnected the hoses from wall. Placed hoses including drain hose into 5-gallon bucket and clamped so they would stay. I then moved washer away from wall about 2'. Then tipped it back against wall. Used 2x4 to keep it there as a support. (Doing this allowed me to keep it in the area and not dump water on floor. Then removed the gear guard, gears and mode selector. Reinstalled all parts and packed gears with synthetic grease made for plastic. It is now working like new. Parts were exact match. Took 30 minutes. Also cleaned the dryer vet line while I had it apart.