GTK17JBXZRBS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

Not only was finding the part rediculously easy for a person who has never done this type of thing...the repair was a sinch!! I will always return to this company for help with home equipment repairs. I saved so much money doing it this way. :) thanks guys!

It has been my experience that these motors sometimes die when the refrigerator is overfilled and motor strains to keep refrigerator cold. And this motor is used in several models of refrigerators. That said, sometimes the hook-up is slightly different between other units. The available video is good, but like I said, circumstances will be slightly different between various models.

After cleaning out freezer (plug disconnected first), start to remove outer plastic covers. If you want to keep track of the different steps, you can take pictures with your cellphone. And if there are any connecting wire attachments you think you might not remember, again, you can take a picture, or label with tape (colored tape, or by writing on the tape). And for keeping track of the different-size screws, I place them in a muffin tin, keeping an order of left to right and top to bottom in the tin. When removing Styrofoam blocks in bottom center, make sure you remove any remaining ice underneath in the hole so refrigerator can "breathe". Freezer air is moved below to refrigerator compartment, so a blocked vent hole will strain refrigerator as it tries to maintain its temperature setting and can be the cause of your failed motor.

After replacing motor onto bracket with grommets and blade, don't completely tighten. Position plastic cover with hole opening over motor and blade assembly. Twirl motor blade to see if there is any interference with cover. If not, take away cover and tighten motor on bracket. If there is any rubbing, adjust motor/blade assembly accordingly before tightening in place. Putting everything back together is in reverse order.

1. Disconnected 120 VAC power supply from refrigerator. 2. Removed 2 philip screws from horizonal panel containing the thermostat. (Panel is in refrigerator section). 3. Removed plug module from panel which freed the panel which allowed me to remove panel to do repair. 4. Removed wires from thermostat (cold control), and mechanically removed thermostat from panel and installed new cold control (thermostat). Replaced wires on control. 5. Replaced panel and reinstalled 2 philips screws. 6. time to repair about 15 minutes.

I typed replacement fridge parts in google. Parts select.com came up. I found my fridge model # on the fridge and typed it in. A similar model # came up and I looked at the parts diagram. I determined what the piece was. I checked a couple other similar fridge model #'s to see if the part was the same. It was. Parts select made it so easy! I ordered the part on Monday in the afternoon... used regular shipping and had it in my hands by 9 am on Wednesday. I opened my fridge took out the collapsed bottom shelf (courtesy of my forever climbing 3 year old!) Installed the old glass and drawers in the new tray and Voila! as good as new! This couldn't of been a better experience from beginning to end,

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

Took out the broken one and put in the new one just as the vido showed me how to. Took about 2 minutes.

The evap fan, based on research, appears to be built to only last a few years. Pay attention to your order of removal for all pieces and it will go back rather easily in reverse.Remove items from freezer. UNPLUG FREEZER. Pop out the shelf. Use screwdriver to remove plastic piece in back. Pop out styrofoam piece. Use screwdriver to remove back metal section of freezer. Use nutdriver to remove screws holding the fan to the back. Unplug the motor. Pop off the fan. Pay attention to location of all these pieces. Put them on the new motor. Reassemble in reverse. Piece of cake.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Simply changed the part.

assembled ordered parts then replaced defective fan and blade and bracket as a group

I noticed that if I unplugged the refrigerator and plugged it back in a while later it would start working but eventually would stop. I deduced the problem was likely the defrost thermostat. I ordered the thermostat but it was in a difficult place behind the evaporator coil which I could not remove. While I was trying to work it into position my hand pressed against the defrost coil and shattered the glass sheath. I ordered the coil and finally managed to get it and the thermostat installed. The refrigerator seems to work fine now.

Removed freezer cover, removed fan and fan motor, and bracket holding the fan moter. Installed fan, installed motor and wa-laugh, done.

I did folllow the instructions on the video step by step.