GT218 - Instructions

I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.

first I diagnosed the problem with the whirlpool do-it-yourself repair manual, which was very easy to understand. as per the repair manual, "this part located on the evaporator or the back of the liner is used during the defrost cycle. This bimetal senses the temperature from the evaporator. When the temperature reaches 50-70 degrees (F) the defrost bimetal turnd the defrost heater off. " then I emptied the freezer. removed the the back panel to expose the evaporator. I looked for the bimetal defrost thermostat clipped on the evaporator. tested the bi-metal defrost thermostat, as per the manual, " the ohmmeter should show ZERO resistance (continuity). if not, the bimetal is bad and needs replacing." NOTE: the bimetal must be cold. it is also tested with the bimetal warm/hot, by running it under hot water. i used a styrofoam cup with hot water & dipped the bimetal in. as per the manual, " the ohmmeter should show an open circuit. if not, the bimetal is bad and needs replacing. then got online found partselect.com. ordered the part, recieved it in less than 2 days. within minutes after recieving the part, I removed the bimetal defrost thermostat and spliced in the new one. thanks to partselect.com my fridge is back up and running properly again. prior to installing the new bimetal, i tested it, as descibed above, you can hear & feel the bimetal open/close when it gets hot/cold.

filled both ice cube trays up with water and placed in the freezer.. within hours my ice oproduction was doubled! no more warm cocktails : )

The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

After noticing my freezer was ice cold and the refrigerator was luke warm, I figured there was an airflow problem due to either a fan that failed or the evaporator coil iced over. Just by opening the freezer door I could hear the fan blowing so it had to be the evap coil. Sure enough after removing a couple screws and the back panel I saw the ice. I then unplugged the frige to let it thaw overnight. In the morning I inspected the coil and luckily noticed right away that this little piece didn't look right. The top of the bi-metal thermostat was raised up. Almost like it popped. I read the other reviews on this website reffering to using an ohm meter to see if it held continuity. Well it didn't because the piece really did "pop". The wire was severed. So the ohm reader read open even if the piece was warm. I ordered the part and in days was able to replace the part. NOTE TO BUYER. It did not come with electrical connecting nuts or whatever they are called. So you'll have to go to the hardware store and pick some up for about $2. Frige works fine now. Thanks parts select.

Pull out old module...
Remove 2 wires...
Tape to inside wall [don't want them to fall down into side panel]..

Order new switch..

Fed Ex pkg came on 2nd day..

Install wires on switch...
Press into opening...
Check door light on..[OK]
.. Done

To make instalation much easier, I removed the door and layed it on a table. I then remobved about 45 screws,removed the inner door section, removed the seal and installed new seal in reverse order being careful not to over tighten the screws. Having the door lying on the table made it much easier to place the gasket in place and make any minor adjustments. I then replaced the door and everything workes just fine.

If the fan blade needs replacement you will hear a loud noise coming from the refrigerator while the refrigerator cycles on. It will go away when it cycles off. (Note: in many cases you only need to replace the fan blade and retaining clip. Purchase both parts together. I thought I could use my old clip just to find out that the fan blade design changed and the old retaining clip would not work.)

NOTE: My refrigerator has an ice maker. delete the steps for the ice maker if you do not have one.

- I call the evaporator cover the back panel.
- I call the tunnel assembly the fan cover.

1) Empty contents of freezer - Only freezer. (Note: leave refrigerator section alone) Remove wire rack by lifting and pushing in one side to free the other side. It may be a bit of a struggle but the holes that the wire rack sit in are recessed in the middle to allow removal. (Look at other wire rack holes to see where the holes exist.)

2) Set dial in refrigerator to "OFF" then unplug refrigerator (safety first)

3) Remove one screw below the ice maker holding the ice maker to the side of the cabinet.

4)Push up on ice maker - Slide Ice maker up and dismount from mounting bolts.

5) Once the ice maker is dismounted you will expose the ice maker wiring harness - Unplug ice maker harness from rear panel.

6) Remove ice maker.

7) Remove ice maker mounting bolt closest to rear of refrigerator to facilitate removal of back panel.

8) Remove 4 screws on back panel and slide panel toward you.

9) Un-clip wiring harness attached to back panel that serves the ice maker (this protrudes from the back panel.) and push it through the back panel -

10) Lay panel down and unclip fan housing (Tunnel Assembly) from back of panel (Evaporator Cover) (note other instructions will tell you to remove this before the back panel. I found it easier this way. (Note the fan is attached to the back panel (Evaporator Cover).

11) After the fan cover is un-clip it hinges from the top. Lift panel - unhinge fan cover and expose fan.

12) The fan has a clip on the end that looks like a compressed wire spring. Pry off with a flat tip screw driver.

13) Pull fan blades towards you and remove from motor shaft.

14) Inspect shaft and wipe it off.

15) Press new fan blade assembly on shaft with you fingers. you will be able to see the shaft from the front of the fan blade as the fan blades have a split in hub area. Seat the fan blade on the shaft as far as it will go.

16) Install new fan blade clip (I used a flat screw driver and pushed it on the fan blade by working different sides of the spring (be careful).

17) Reassemble in reverse order.

I hope this helps. The job is reasonably easy for the novice and will save on a repairman coming out to install a fan blade and clip which is really a 15 minute job for the professional.

The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

Replacing the door seal only involved unscrewing about 50 screws, attaching the new seal, & screwing all 50 screws back in. I'm glad I have a good electric screwdriver. The hard, if not impossible part, is trying to get the door to seal properly again. At first the door wouldn't close all the way, so after 2 hours of tinkering, it will close now, but the top left corner of the magnetic gasket will not seal no matter what.

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!