GMAN3000M1WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

Popped the front off the washer by placing a towel under the screwdriver to prevent chipping the paint. Had to spent almost 45 minutes soaking up water that had leaked from pump. Must have been leaking for some time before enough leaked under washer and became visible, because there was a lot of rust build up. (1).Removed old pump by first un-pluging washer and them removing (2) connecting wires from pump. (3).Next use nut driver to loosen flex hose from washer. (not from pump). Loosen spring clamp from discharge hose , and slide up. (4) Using nut driver I removed (2) hex screws that held pump to frame, then removed pump and motor assembly. (5). Mopped up water with large (old) bath towels (6). Used hair dryer to dry area. (7). Used wire brush to brush away surface rust. then used small shop vacuum to remove this surface rust. (8). Used small brush to paint white rust-olem paint on rusted areas, used hair dryer again to help paint to dry, then gave it a second coat and again helped it dry. (9). I then removed flex hose from old pump assembly, checked it for cracks and finding none I attached it to new pump with existing spring clamp. (10). I then put pump assembly back inside washer, but did not attach with hex screws yet. (11). Re-attached the drain hose by sliding the spring clamp back down, making sure it is around the hose and discharge spout. (12). Reattach the flex hose to washer discharge spout. (13). Screw new pump and motor assembly unto newly painted frame. (14). Re-attach (2) wires to pump and motor assembly. (15). Plug washer back in and try filling it with some water, letting it go into the drain cycle to check for leaks. NOTE: You don't have to go through and entire wash cycle. Just use the dial to put some water in then move it to drain and /or spin to get the new pump and motor assembly going. I did this a couple of times and then did an entire load of clothes to ensure there were no leaks. After I was sure there were no leaks, I simply popped the front panel back on. My part cost a total of $64.00 including shipping, and it took me about 1 hour of my time. I checked with my local GE dealer and his cost would have been $98.00 for the part, and $85.00 for labor for a total of $183.00. I AM VERY HAPPY. Oh bye the way I had my part within 3 days of the order and that was with regular shipping. I will always use Parts Select from now on.

replaced Tub dampeners Straps.

Unplug electricity, unscrew 3 bolts with nutdriver from rear of top panel, expose triple valve, remove 2 screws from existing valve, turn water off & remove hose from triple valve, remove outlet hose attached to the valve,install new valve with 2 screws & replace outlet hose, attach hot/cold hoses, replace top part of washer with the 3 screws,plug in electricity & turn on the hot & cold water, that's it.

My husband was unavailable and already overloaded, so I took a screw driver and removed the front cover of the washer. After I discovered where the leak was coming from, I used a screw driver to remove one end of the hose and pliers to remove the other end. I went online, found the part and ordered it. It came in surprisingly fast. My husband put it back in about 5 minutes.

Placed new knob over existing stem

After reading how others have done this and how easy it was, I decided to give it a try. And, sure enough, it was really easy. However, one concern I had was on lifting the old agitator off from the axle using both hands. I didn't want to have the agitator come crashing into my face as I pulled up. So I put a pillow on top of the agitator.

I had to remove top control panel and flip it over the back and out of the way, but did not have to unplug anything. I then had to remove front and top panels in order to remove the agitator and eventually the tub assembly itself. Once the tub assembly was removed, I had to turn it upside down to remove the transmissing and brake assembly as well as the mounting bracket. The entire removal process took about an hour and a half. The reassembly took less than an hour. The most difficult part was removing the 1 11/16 nut that ties the agitator to the tramsmission through the tub. It took 3 of us to hold the tub in place so that one of us could use the 3/4 drive ratchet and extension to loosen the nut. We did the same thing during the reassembly. All together there ware quite a few parts removed and a fair amounte of different screws. In order to perform this job, you must have a decent tool set and the ability to diagnose each step of the process, but it's not very difficult otherwise.

Removed front cover(use screwdriver)clips on top of cover under lid
Disconnected power from wall
Disconnected wires to motor 1 screw/unplug for motor
Uncwrewed clamp on drain hose
Removed top lifts off easliy
With help released Washing drum assy from hangers
Slid back and Tilted drum assy outwards from drum opening out to the front of machine
Pulled agatator up and off of hub
Remove one bolt from hub 1/4 " rachet w 3/8" socket
Pull off cap
Removed Locking nut(couterclockwise)nut is soft metal used good vice grips firmly locked on nut
Removed inner washing drum
Turned over Entire Assy (motor up)
Removed belt (slid off)
Removed 4 blots from Motor/Tranny assy to Plastic outer drum
Lifted off Motor/Tranny assy and pulled tranny out
Reaasemble in reverse order witht the exception of replacing the hub seal(inside)Outer drum assy.
There were service instruction under the front control panel.

I removed the front cover, then unscrewed the top to expose the top. There are two screws that hold each strap, which turns out are different sizes, so I had to use two different sockets. I also had to remove the hose & plastic tube for the bleach. Once that was done, the replacement was easy, I replaced all 4 straps, reconnected the tube for the bleach, screwed the top back on and snapped the front cover into place. This took maybe 30 minutes - and I am female!

After realizing I had purchased a used washing machine without a drain hose I thought I would never find one, but then I found partselect.com. After easily locating the part on the web site from the detailed diagrams and model number I then ordered it. Receiving the part quickly I used a socket to remove the plastic connector that prevents the hose from disconnecting once the washer is turned on. I fed the hose through the plastic connector and into the drain hole without any issues. I then used my one small socket to secruely fasten it back together. There was no additional tools or items needed to successfully attach the washer drain hose.

Could not turn dryer selection without a pliers. Metal assembly inside knob broke. Easy enough to find knob on website, though the machine was so old the model numbers had changed. Popped off old knob, put new one on; done. Received knob in mail within a couple of days of ordering online. Excellent service. Thank you.

Basically, I just followed the instructions in the video that is posted on this sight. It went off without a hitch. Removed the screws from the control panel, lifted it up and out of the way. Then I used the putty knife to release the clips that hold the front panel in place and then removed the top of the washer. Pretty easy from there to swap out the dampening straps and reassemble the washer. Saved a lot of money doing it myself.

Drain tub. remove 2 hose clamps and hoses. R&R 2 screws that hold pump.

Took front panel off the washer and found the pump working but no water drained from the tub. Took the motor off the washer by removing the two 10mm screws and attaching hoses. Decided to take the motor apart and found the propeller shaft has broken off inside the pump. Ordered new motor from Partselect and replaced it. Washer is working fine now.

pulled off cup on top of agataor. scrwed off nut. pulled off agatator. flipted up side down. took off agatator bell wich is on the bottom of the agator. sliped on bell. put agatator back on and scrwed on nut. dont reamber the size of the nut.sorry. put cap on and your done.