GHWN4250D1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Unpacked the agitator from the box. Manually pulled off the old agitator and snapped on the new one. Total repair time was under 2 mins. Much better than a $120 service call.

I just watchied the clip on the website during the day about how to fix it, went home that night and fixed it.

Main thing is watch the video. It may vary a little according to the age of your appliance, as it did with me but common sense guides. The difference was minor on my part. Two hex head screws to remove per strap and they had to make them 1 size different. Go figure. Have your change handy. A ratchet nut driver will save you some time.

Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.

after reading repair stories, decided I should take front panel off and see where leak was coming from. taking the panel off was real pain but well worth as inside was dry! so I looked again and discovered a pin hole in drain hose that only leaked when tub was full. while I had panel off I noticed tub dampening straps were broken so went ahead and ordered those parts too.

Remove front panel by pulling on both sides of it at top.

Loosen clamps on both ends. Tub end uses 5/16 socket on extension. Pump end uses plyers.

Replace hose and re install clamps.

removed three screws from back panel used putty knife to remove front panel and dampening strap were there to remove.

I watched the YouTube video. Great help. The part was at my house less than 24 hours after I ordered. Great delivery! The repair was a no brainer even for a novice like me.

Shut off power, removed both water hoses, detached drain hose, noticed the plastic drain hose was splitting, entered the model number in a web search, ordered part from PartSelect. received part next day and reversed previous process. Tested repair and no leaks.

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.

Simply unclamped the lower end of the hose, then used the nut driver to release the upper clamp of the hose. Took it off, replaced it with the new hose and re-clamped both ends. It took me about 12 minutes to do this. Very easy repair!!

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

removed front washer cover (2) clips at top released with straight screwdriver . removed washer top cover (2) 1/4" head screws that are behind front washer cover. Then removed screws holding tub dampening straps (4)5/16" head from agitation drum housing from top, removed other end of strap from under side (4) 1/4" head screws. then assembled with new straps in reverse order. easy repair nice and quiet again.