GGG388LXQ01 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

Easy instal most of time was taking off and replacing back panel Found watching how to videos helpful

Simply remove two screws take old one off and line up and put new one on and replace the two screws. Couldn't have been easier.

Just removed the shield (2 wing nuts) than the burner (1 Screw). THe back needs to be removed to unplug the igniter. I than reversed the process until I got to the plug and found that I had 2 male ends. I than had to remove everything and go back to square one until I find the part with the correct end (which should be Female) I'd check this before getting too deep into the repair.

Pull out unit from wall in order to access back panel.
Unplug and turn off gas.
Remove the entire back panel (there is no small access panel like there is on other units. You must remove the whole back panel.)
Open the top oven door and remove rack, then remove the bottom heat shield, unscrew igniter.
Unplug the igniter from the back of the range. If you don't what wire it is have someone jiggle the wire from inside the top over while you look from the back of the range.
Pull out igniter.
Perform all steps again in reverse.

I repair it by shutting off the gas. removing the back panel of the stove . unplug the electrical sensor cord to the igniter. Then replace with new one.

Did the diagnostic tests from the literature provided in a bag on the back of my stove I had no idea it was on the back of my stove because I had this stove installed when it was brand new
The final test indicated the igniter was bad and this is a common cause due to age wear and tear and just use of the oven
So I ordered one. It came extremely fast
It was a an OEM part
I had the oven back in operation in 15 minutes that includes R&R of the stove back and oven racks and inside fire tube covers and fire tube
I then replaced the bad igniter with the new one on the fire tube then reinstalled the fire tube
Then I did the Prefire test with the Gas turned off and the igniter lit beautifully
Then the final test was I turned on the gas and did the Prefire test again AND the fire tube lit up and beautiful blue flames came out the fire tubes tiny holes
Then I finished putting the back and inboard fire tube covers back on
Then I put the racks back in
This is what I did from start to finish and the Most important thing was I made my wife extremely happy

Turned off the gas line & unplugged the oven. Pulled oven away from the wall to access the back of the oven. Removed the back panel (screws) on the oven & the few inner oven parts covering the broken igniter. Sprayed WD 40 on the threads of screws holding the old igniter in place. Removed old igniter screws with a nutdriver & unplugged it from the back of the oven. Installed the PartSelect replacement igniter & plugged it into the wiring receptacle. Reassembled the parts covering the new igniter & screwed the back panel back onto the oven. Plugged oven in, turned the gas back on & pushed the oven back into place. Tested the new igniter. Woohoo, oven works again & wife if happy!

Unplug range

Shut off gas supply

Remove rear panel screws and panel with nut driver

Disconnect power plug from broiler element igniter

Open upper oven door

Remove screw from the front of the gas burner.

Remove screw using nut driver from rear of gas burner

Remove gas burner from oven and pull cord through from rear panel

Using nut driver, remove igniter from mount on gas burner

Install new igniter on mount on gas burner using nut driver

Reinstall is reverse of disassembly

Connect power and turn gas back on. Test igniter by activating broil on upper oven

Removed old racks, installed new racks. Recycled old racks.

The steel mounting screw tends to seize in the aluminum burner head. It is not easy to extract, or to drill out and rethread. My advice is to replace the burner head at the same time.

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

I had to wait week for parts that were supposedly in stock No notice about delay I had to call to find out you really dropped the ball on this one

This is a double oven unit. Both the upper and lower igniters are easy to get to, with just a few screws to remove. However in order to reach the quick disconnects, the back of the oven needs to be removed. So there are a bunch of screws to take off and the oven needs to be moved away from the wall. Pulling out the igniter wires and putting the new ones back in, is easy. Then put all the screws back on and move the oven back to the wall. Don't forget to disconnect the power when you do all this.

Removed door, oven racks, and cover at the bottom. Very easy to get to the actual ignitor. The more challenging part is getting to the back of the oven where the igniter plugs in. Once we got the oven pulled out enough to access the bottom of the back panel, we removed the back panel....just a couple screws and it slides up. Unclipping and removing the old igniter was easy. It's a bit of a challenge to feed the new igniter's wires under the insulation and up over a small ledge and out a small hole that's smaller than a quarter. Small hands help. You can avoid the whole part of attaching it in the back of you clip the wires of your old igniter and new one. Then use ceramic wire nuts to connect the new igniter the the old one's wires. We decided not to do that since it was already done once that way and figured it would be good to have fresh wires clipped in at the back. Overall, fairly easy repair especially if you decide to connect the igniter with ceramic wire nuts.