GFD45GSMK0DG General Electric Dryer - Instructions

UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.

The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.

I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt.
Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

To get to the slides, needed to take off the front panel, the top and then can loosen the front of the dryer. Pull it out enough to get to the slides and replace them.

good replacement procedure on you tube.

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.

Inspected door switch operation and was working properly and simply looked for bulb in the dryer drum housing and located it immediately above the door opening,unscrewed it and noticed the broken elements inside. The bulb is a 10w/120V. Installed bulb problem solved.

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY

Unscrewed the old bulb using the lefty loosey method. Installed the new bulb by turning it clockwise or righty tighty.

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

Used a flash light to see, reached in and installed new bulb above the door

remove the old one and put the new one...!!! Easy

Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley.

It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.

If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.

If your dryer is making a grinding or loud plastic rubbing noise, you likely need to replace the slides. Here is how I did it.

TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.

IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.

Step 1: Remove the control panel

To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.

Step 2: Remove the lid

There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.

Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses

Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)

Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to

There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.

Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)

There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.

Step 5: Replace the slides

The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.

Step 6: Putting it all back together

Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.

It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.

Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!