GDT535PSJ4SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

So after noticing some horrid food waste build up in my 9 year old dishwasher, I determined it wasn't heating the water during the wash cycle. I came on here to check how to replace the heating element and was surprised when the flood switch was instead strongly recommended as the first repair step.

I ordered the part, and prepped the dishwasher for the repair (Pro-tip: Clothes pin attached to the bottom of the flood switch wiring harness ensures it doesn't slip down below the opening during the part swap!). The part swap and reassembly only took 5-10 mins or so after prep and dishwasher is now heating water and running great again. Many thanks to partselect.com for the detailed installation guides/videos and the parts recommendations!

Simply pulled the new one out of the box and put it into the dishwasher.

Followed video instructions step by step.
I was fortunate i had enough slack in water, electric and discharge lines to avoid disconnecting.

Two wrinkles
1. wire clips on my door had to be pulled/pried loose from door and there were two not one

2. could not slide dishwasher out after lowering adjusters and figured out it was the mounting tabs bumpimng the granite countertop, thus the use of putty knives to slide the dishwasher out.

Removed the top two screws that hold the dishwasher to the cabinet , remove the two screws on the bottom panel and remove the panel. Screw the levelers all of the way up and pull out the dishwasher about 6 to 8 inch. Hook the new cabe on the spring and pull around pulley and attach it to the door bracket. I replaced both cables. Reverse to complete.

Replaced latch

In did the drain screen, undid two nuts on top, removed panel, undid plastic ring, undid two screws with but driver, pulled sensor up, dried up any water at bottom, installed new sensor and follow steps in reverse. It worked!!!

took off 2 sheet metal on the bottom, lowered the dish washer, pulled it out enought to unscrew 2 screws, unplugged the old part plugged in the new, put it back together.
Works like a champ.

Took off the door and separated the two door pieces. Unscrewed the old dispenser and replaced it with the new one.

Simply unscrewed the old damaged arm and screwed the new one on, took less than a minute

The base of the spray arm literally just spins a little bit into place like a luer lock. Takes two seconds to replace.

I followed the U tube instructions already put out part select.

Checked issue on line. After getting the code I watched several YouTube self help sites. I followed the instructions from video provided by Drewin’ Around. He made a very easy to follow video and once I received the part, rewatched it and fixed the issue within 15 minutes. It took longer for me to fine my tools.

YouTubers are awesome!

Ordered new parts, unpacked the shipping containers, removed old racks and inserted the new ones. piece of cake. Perfect fit and prompt service.

The dishwasher rack was supposed to come with wheels it did not but I was able to use the existing wheels from the lower rack and snap them on was pretty easy

I was very confident that the problem with my GE Adora DDT595SSJ5SS was that it needed a new UI board. It had been beeping randomly for a couple of months, requiring a circuit breaker reset every so often, until finally it stopped working entirely. When I looked at the main board underneath, the LED was flashing too fast for me to count the blinks. These were the signature signs of the UI board going out -- and this did indeed turn out to be the problem. I've run the dishwasher several times since replacing the board, and there have been no issues.

The only real issue I had with the repair job was removing the dishwasher door. This was because the door of my model was held in place by a pair of tension cables (bottom left and bottom right of the unit), rather than hinges, and the cable method of attachment is less documented online. I had to get hold of a user manual for my unit to even discover this fact about it, since I had purchased my home with this dishwasher already present and did not see it being installed originally.

What I had to do was to pull the unit out about five inches, exposing the attachments for these cables (they are on the outside of the unit), so I could hook my heavy wire hook under them and detach them. If your dishwasher has these cables on the door, you really do need a hook tool of some sort to remove them. If you have strong wire, you can make one yourself as I did. Anyway, removing the cables allowed me to remove the door. After that it was straightforward to unscrew and unbolt the various panels, set the jumpers on the new UI board, and screw everything back together.

I should note that the cables were not tricky in any way, just that all of these Adora units seem to be a bit different and I happened to have one with a method of attaching the door that is not very well documented. I hope that this helps someone with this type of unit. If you see those videos online referring to detaching the door from hinges, and you can't find anything on yours that looks or feels like that, consider that you might have cables instead on the outside of the unit.