GDPP4517AD0A Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced drain pump. It helped some but still hear some squealing. I suspect the main pump might be worn as well. The drain pump did have some "looseness" to it compared to the new part.

I removed the bottom front of the unit, removed broken friction cable, hooked the new friction cable to the door, attached the cable to the spring, then reattached the spring in the hole provided in the back frane of the unit... Dissappointing how cheaply made these parts are, the dishwasher is just over 1 year old, these friction cables should be made to last longer....

The nut was split down one side, so I first tried to sauder the nut back together. Saudering never goes well for me anyway, but I couldn't get a good enough seal around the nut to make it fit tightly. Then I had to cut off the clear plastic shield to get down in there, just before realizing you could just pull the white wire firmly and it would come loose from the nut. All I had to do then was unscrew the original nut, and screw on the new nut. Then, luckily I had mistakenly ordered an extra clear plastic shield and could replace the one I had previously cut. Dishwasher now runs like a charm!

#1 rule, make sure you valve off the water before removing any hoses. Remove wire trays inside dishwasher and then pull out dishwasher far enough to disconnect water line and power cord. Remove center piece and screen covering sump inside the dishwasher. Turn dishwasher on its side and remove hoses to sump and pump. Disconnect power to sump pump. Loosen retaining nuts that secure the sump and remove. Replace old gasket on sump with new. Turn dishwasher upright. Be careful with placement of new gasket when reinserting sump so that the gasket doesn't come out of position and the sump is centered properly. Secure with retaining nuts from bottom. Reconnect power connector and hoses to sump. Pour enough water into the dishwasher to verify gasket doesn't leak... look with flashlight under dishwasher for signs of water dripping from sump. Reinstall screen and centerpiece in sump inside the dishwasher. Reconnect water line and power cord. Run through wash cycle while monitoring for leaks under dishwasher. Reinstall wire trays.

Piece of cake as long as you get the gasket installed properly and the sump centered correctly... do not overtighten the retaining nuts or it may force the gasket out of position when the screen is secure with the center locking piece over the sump.

It is rather easy to repair. After you remove the screws that secure the top of the dishwasher to the countertop you can slide the disherwasher out far enough to gain access to the hose. The hose pulls off after you slide the spring clips down the hose far enough so they no longer grab. Then simply reverse the order and you're done. Less than 30 minutes and you should no longer have to hand wash your dishes!

I turned the power off at the circuit breaker. I then took the access panel off the dishwasher at the bottom. I pulled the wire off the connector. I used a plied to remove the broken washer and replaced with new part. I put everything back in reverse order and ran the dishwasher. I than checked for leaks over two days while the machine was running and everything was fine. Thank you Parts Select for saving me $500!

Slid dishwater out from cabinet, replace cable, slid unit back in , secure ---done! door has tension now.

For some strange reason my new dishwasher was installed without a door gasket, which caused a very small water leak. The gasket I purchased was installed in less than 5 minutes and corrected the problem immediately - a very easy task and I am no handyman!

The replacement hose was not as long and the original and therefore did not fit into the track made for the original one. Though it was long enough to work, an additional 4 inches would have been an exact fit.
As a result, the replacement had to be duct taped to the side of the dishwasher to hold it in place. Otherwise, the new hose was of better quality that the flimsy original. All in all, I could have picked up 3 feet of rubber hose from an auto parts or hardware store cheaper and done the job just as well, if not better.

First I removed the two screws that hold the dishwasher in place, I pulled out the dishwasher and on the bottom right located the leak. The two brass nuts that hold the heating element in place. The wires had been rusted to the element so I cut the wires (and later spliced them back together) and unscrewed the brass nuts. I ordered the part after finding them very easily on partselect.com and 2 days later screwed them back on to the dishwasher. Spliced the wires back together and put the dishwasher back in place.

Easy Fix.

If you are getting intermittent leaks especially when you put a pot lid up front, it’s probably just the door gasket. And this was the easiest project I’ve tackled as a homeowner since buying the place 20 years ago. I read the other stories and I think the suggestion I choose to follow is not the best thing to do. So, read passed where I cut the gasket. I used needle nose pliers to grab the bottom edge of the old gasket which then pulled out by hand with almost no effort. I used the old gasket to measure the new gasket as recommended in one of the other stories, and cut it. DON"T DO THIS. The gasket is very soft foam rubber. As you push it in (I just used my fingers), it will get longer as you push it in. I put it in the first time (took about a minute if that long) and even though I cut it to the same length as the old one, it was too long. Obviously I figured I did something wrong. So, I took it out and measured it again. Nope, same-same. So, I put in a second time, careful not to stretch it, and this time it was now too short. So, I recommend that you just establish the bottom edge 90 degree angle seat and try not to stretch it as you work your way around the seam. It should fit just find, maybe with a little adjustment back or forth, but without cutting it at all. By the way, the half inch I cut off at the recommendation of one of the other reviews did not ruin it. It works just fine. So you can cut it if you want I suppose. But that half inch I cut off was what I was short when I was carful not to stretch it.

Turned off elecrtic and water to dishwasher and pulled dishwasher out from under cabinet. Removed broken hose using pliers to open hose clamps.
installed new hose.

First point of leakage was the door. Turns out that a gasket at the bottom of the door functions as a wave trap. As the bottom sprayer spins it sprays against the door and creates a small wave of water this gasket was starting to disintegrate, it was letting water surge over the small tray at the doors bottom. Easy to replace just pull down and remove press fit on inside door bottom. Only when this was replaced did I find the real leak but not until I guessed at the tub seal as the leak. Very hard to see where the water really comes from! Turns out it was not the tub seal but a clip that holds the heater element got smashed down from a dropped dish rack at some earlier time and this caused the heat to increase at the clip and eventually heat the clip to extent it melted the tub directly under it. JB Weld to the rescue and we have a waterproof tub again. Well almost! The tub gasket resisted my best efforts to seat correctly and thus required a new tub gasket, still hard to seat but after 2-3 attempts we have a winner. Total cost about 50 bucks vs. 6-700 for a new unit. Wife is happy!!

My husband and dad actually did the repair, but my husband not being a handy guy said it was, 'so easy, anyone could do it!' He was very nervous about taking on the project, the longest part was testing to make sure it worked(running a cycle).
The simply pulled out the dishwasher, after disconnecting all electrical power, drained the rest of the water that we couldn't see from above, following the video given took out the old part without needing to take out the motor and were able to replace the drain pump, put everything back together besides sliding it into place in case it didn't work, in less than 15 minutes! When the short cycle finished and the water had drained they put it back into place and ran an energy saver cycle and it worked like a charm! Since then(2 weeks ago) we have now ran every function and have had no issues! Every time we open the dishwasher we comment on how much we missed having a dishwasher! Haha!

Disconnected power, water, and drain tube from dishwasher. Pulled dishwasher out and laid it on right side. It was not necessary to remove the pump motor. When disconnecting the water line, it is better to remove 3/8 line from the appliance adapter rather that the appliance adapter from the dishwasher as the nylon connection tends to strip.