GDF640HGM0BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

just bolted on the new one and hooked up the hose

The installation is fairly straightforward, basically one plug in electrical connection and two plumbing connections. The smaller of the two plumbing connections can be tricky because of the hose clamp... The original clamps are one time use crimp style. The replacements are standard hose clamps, which means the section where the tension mechanism is, is a bit wider than the clamp itself... This can cause the rubber collar on the dishwasher to slide off/separate from the pump part itself when tightening the hose clamp. If you are careful and align things just right, it will work like a charm. The best advice I have is to take your time and make sure the connections are snug without being too tight, otherwise it could leak and/or something else could break.

Took old valve assembly off and replaced with new assenbly

Started by removing dishwasher, including disconnecting power, water and drain line. Then turned washer on back. Electrical connector to old wash pump was a little tricky to remove as the release tab isn’t straightforward, I used a tiny screwdriver and jiggled it around till it came loose. The factory hose clamps (2) are crimped on, but if you can find the tail end you can work them loose with a screwdriver by prying the tail up from the body of the clamp. Once you have the electrical connector and the two clamps removed, the pump comes of easily with a twisting motion. The new wash motor came with new clamps (2 extra). When sliding the rubber boots on the new pump in place, it will require a twisting motion to position it correctly, make sure (I didn’t and had to go through the whole process twice) that the rubber boot is not folded under on the bottom where it’s hard to see. Tighten clamps carefully and don’t over tighten. Plug in electrical connector and you’re ready to reinstall dishwasher.

A noisy dishwasher and water coming from underneath was being caused by a torn hose that is factory connected to the diverter. It was a little difficult to see at first as the hose sits slightly kinked when in it's normal position. Access to the diverter involves removal of the circulation pump. I ordered a new diverter which comes with metal screw on clamps. The main difficulty in installing is the positioning and alignment of the diverter and pump. My first effort resulted in a ripping of the attached diverter hose as I attempted to secure. I ordered another diverter. This time I used a lubricant to allow movement of the connecting hoses and made sure to not overtighten the clamps. I used a small mirror to make sure that the various hoses sat properly. Alignment took a bit of time. I then gently tightened the hoses. I ran the dishwasher, and found a leak, meaning that I needed to tighten these clamps a bit more. This is a doable repair that needs patience. The dishwasher is now very quiet and runs great!

The repair is easy for most if you have basic skills.

1. Cycle your unit to make sure all the water in the tub is emptied. (Start a cycle then cancel it which forces it to empty)

2. Turn off the power at the circuit/fuse panel & also turn off your water supply going to the unit which is usually under the sink with your sink plumbing.

3. Have a few old towels handy, there will be a little water but nothing that requires a wet shop vac, etc.

4. Remove the bottom kickplate (should be a screw on each side of the front of unit)

5. Disconnect the power supply wiring to make removal easier.

6. Disconnect the water supply line (have a towel handy there will be a little water in the supply line)

7. Unscrew the mounts either at the top and/or sides of the washer depending on the install method into your cabinetry.

8. Carefully slide out the unit.

9. Carefully turn the unit on its side or upside down depending on your preference to work on the underside where the pump is located. Again have a towel or two handy there will be some water that leaks out from the tub even after forcing an empty cycle.

10. The circulation pump is easy to remove. First plug the power line, there is a clip to disengage to separate the plug. A small flat screwdriver will help.

11. If this is a first time being replaced it will probably have crimp style hose clamps on the two lines coming off the pump. Again a small screwdriver will help pry it apart. Throw these away your pump kit will have new hose clamps for installation.

12. Once these clamps are removed you can slip the hoses off and the pump will be free to remove from the unit.

13. Installation is easy. Make sure the rubber hoses seal completely around the unit before clamping. Pay attention to make sure its sealed evenly, your unit will leak water otherwise once its functioning again.

14. My recommendation is to reassemble, slide the unit back into your cabinetry and hook your power and water supply up. Before you screw the unit back into place and close up the bottom panel, start a quick cycle. Within that first minute when the unit is filling and starting the circulation pump you can watch underneath and make sure your circulation pump lines are sealed and not leaking. Once satisfied, you can then stop the unit and finish securing the unit with mounting screws and closing up the bottom kickplate panel.

Good luck! You can do this :)

this was ordered 4-9-21 and I have yet to receive it. Its difficult to explain the installation when you haven't received the main part. I paid for this but you have not shipped it. Very poor customer service.

I watched a step by step video provided on the Fix It app. Easy to follow directions and only took minutes to tear apart and put back together. Didn't even require help from my husband. Although the latch and striker were not the problem, contacted parts select and they then recommended the electronic control board, they ordered it, had it shipped to me within a few days, another really easy fix I did using the You tube video. Fixed the problem lickety-split. I will never go without my fix it app. Entered all my appliances. Sure beats spending hundreds on appliance repairmen! Thank you Parts Select!

Unplugged power.
Shut off water supply.
Remove the kick panel.
Unscrewed dishwasher from under cabinet and side screws. lower feet to reduce tension.
As you slide the dishwasher out, be sure all lines (Drain, water supply, electric are free to move with dishwasher.
I was able to hold the dishwasher at an angle to easily get to the valve. After removing the the valve, i screwed the new valve back into place. I removed the Line between the valve and Dishwasher. Putting the line on the new valve. I removed the water supply line from the old valve and installed it on the new valve.
Placed the dishwater back in place and screed it back in. I ran the cycles. everything works!
I replace the kickpaner a couple of hours later. Check to make sure there were now leaks.

Repaired with the help of You Tube videos. To repair: remove door (note! the door can be removed without pulling the dishwasher out, or disconnecting spring cables). To remove the door insert allen wrench in holes under door to hold the door in the remove/ install position. separate the inner and outer door (easily done) then remove and replace the User interface board. The hardest part was locating the holes to insert the allen wrenches (or anything similar) in to. Dishwasher worked after repair. In my case the dishwasher would come back to life for a short period if I turned the power off, and back on. I read somewhere that was a symptom of the bad UI board. I was lucky because that was the problem.

1. Turn off the water.
2. Turn off the power to the dishwasher.
3. Pulled out the dishwasher.
4. Tilted it forward and to the side with a bowl to collect the water at the bottom.
5. Carefully laid the dishwasher on its side
6. Removed the existing pump. Make note of its orientation before removing (maybe take a picture). Disconnect the wire and loosen the 2 pipe clamps used to attach the pump. The pipe clamps were not the adjustable, reusable kind but the replacement part came with several.
7. Put the new pipe clamps on the hoses (the supply and discharge side) so they're in place.
8. Installed the replacement pump by pushing it on to the supply then the discharge hoses.
9. Move the clamps into place and tighten.
10. Reconnect the power wire.
11. Stand the dishwasher up.
12. Turn on the power and water.
13. Run a quick test to make sure it's working and doesn't leak.
14. Push it back in to place and reattach it to the cabinets.

Took it out of the box and set rollers on track
rolled in place ALL DONE

It was relatively easy to fix. I unscrewed the mounting screws from the cabinet, slide the dishwasher out to access the pump under the dishwasher, I did raise the dishwasher on the left side and steadied with a stool to make access to the pump fitting easier. Then I loosed both clamps at the ends of the hose ie. from the dishwasher pump and the connection to the sink drain line, pulled the clamp off of the end that connects to the pump and placed it on the new hose connection, I removed the old hose, connected the new one and tightened the drain line connections. I placed the hose in the hose holders on the side of the dishwasher slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it in place with the mounting screws.

My son did the repair, I ordered both latch and striker, only needed the latch...only took him a few minutes to remove the old and install the new and works just fine

Twist counter clockwise to remove clockwise to install