GDF610PGJ5WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Took off the kickplate, diconnected the wires and removed the whole door by lifting straight up, removing spring wires from hinges. Once door is disconnected from the machine, removed one hinge by removing bolt. Slid gasket into place, secured hinge back in place, then reconnected wires at bottom, replaced hinge spring wires and slid door back down onto hinges. Now that we know how to do it, could do it in 15 min to half hour.

Didn't actually do the compete repair but got close. Pulled out dishwasher, disconnected and checked continuity on the existing heating element (about 16 ohms) the new element was also about 16 ohms. This indicates they both were working fine and no need for replacement. Next step would have been to swap the elements would have been simple. Tried to replace main board as well, still not the issue so giving up and replacing the dishwasher. It wasn't the high temp cut off thermostat either incidentally and no error codes in maintenance mode. Check continuity of your existing element before ordering to save aggravation.

I first tested for 120volts to my dishwasher to verify it was getting power from my electrical panel. Then tested pins 2 and 5 on the control board to make sure there was 14 volts going to the user interface harness. After I verified that I knew it was the user interface that was bad. I watched a video I found on YouTube and followed it. This repair was fairly easy while watching the video and making sure that you use the correct pin out that comes in the box for your model. I’m not an appliance repair person and it took me about an hour start to finish. I’m going to attach the video I https://youtu.be/TI8cUjy5YOE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GN5t4VFgLCY

Open the washer, remove the bottom dish rack, then twist off the bottom water sprayer. Use a screwdriver to remove the mounting/ stabilizing screws so you can slide out the dishwasher. Close the dishwasher and slide it out. Underneath at the back there are two wires powering the drying element, carefully remove them. Use an adjustable wrench to remove the two plastic mounting nuts for the drying element. Open the washer and remove the old drying element, and insert the new element. Reassemble the dishwasher in the reverse order if disassembly.

1. Turn off breaker supplying power to dishwasher in electrical panel
2. Open dishwasher door
3. Unscrew the screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter.
4. Tip dishwasher forward. Identify the non-functioning door latch. It looks exactly like the replacement. Unclip the wire harness from the door latch.
5. On the inside of the dishwasher, there are 2 screws directly under the door latch. Unscrew them and carefully set aside.
6. Remove old door latch.
7. Set new door latch in place. Holding securely, replace screws removed in step 5. Toward the end they get a little tougher to screw in.
8. Plug wire harness into new door latch.
9. Re-align dishwasher and re-secure to counter in previous position.
10. Test latch to make sure it closes properly.
11. Turn on breaker in electrical panel.
The dishwasher should now function properly.

Downloaded the GE manual from the internet. Followed the GE repair manual trouble shooting guide. The manual contains all of the disassembly and reassembly instructions. Main board had a more than one volt higher than listed voltage output. Manual does not list an acceptable voltage range so I ordered a new main board. New board had the same output and did not fix the problem. I ordered a new UI board. The new board is a genuine GE "programable" replacement board that covers multiple models.
I set the indicated jumper to the required position for my application and installed it. The problem was not corrected. I read that some people had problems with defective replacement boards so I contacted PartSelect to return the first two boards and reordered the UI board.
I once again set the jumper and installed the UI board and it worked immediately.
The whole repair was extremely easy. PartSelect is very good to work with. I had no problems with returns or refunds. I will definitely use them again if I have the need for any of their products. There were slightly cheaper suppliers, but PartSelect had the parts I needed in stock and they shipped my order lightning fast. They are more than worth the few extra pennies difference.

1. Pull out dishwasher (not all the way) 2. Open the door. 3. Remove the white rope holding the door hinge (both sides) 4. Remove the door by pulling up when the door is open about 4-8 inches. 5. Lay the door on the floor ( put something under the door so not to scratch the front. 6. Remove the small bolt at the bottom of the door (both sides). 7. Slide the hinge back, up, then out. 8. Where the hinges were are another set of bolts, remove those (both sides) 9. Grab the top part of the door (the part with the buttons) and slide apart. 10. Remove the styrofoam carefully. 11. Disconnect the wiring harness. 12. Remove the 6 screws holding the Despenser tray in place. 13. Put in new Despenser tray and put everything back together.

Slid out old part, slid in new part.

repair under warranty for Home Depot. Ordered new controller, new sump manifold, new piranh clamp kit, new diverter passive main assy, installation took 6 months. Could not finish as GE had changed the diverter to a new design with the same part number that the repairman had no knowledge of and there is no part available for the same configuration of the one that went bad, after I called GE tech line they were not aware of updates. Giving me the same numbers. The new design works if you order a new conduit main. As the old one in the dishwasher will not connect to the new Diverter. New deverter no. WD19X25278 and the new main conduit is the same as the old configuration no.WD12X21681 . The repair people and parts people are not yet aware of the design change and availability of parts, as most are out of stock and no updated pictures of the new design. Repair warranty washed their hands of this and Home Depot after 6 months gave me credit of my full price I bought this for 3 yrs ago. Repairing myself and sell.

Diagnosing was probably the most difficult, as I am an experienced electronic tech for 40 years. through research i found that the schematics and service paperwork was included with my dishwasher mine was located in the front left corner of the frame behind the kick panel. These service instructions were ok for guide but not really helpful in troubleshooting this fault. I found online the pinout output voltage from the main control board needed to be checked. however, this is not very easy to get a proper reading safely in such an awkward position. I ultimately scored the insulation back enough to get a set of clip leads and connect to my meter and obtain a reading. In my case there was voltage. I ordered the board and it arrived quick and installed. I cut and spliced together the wires I scored to make a reading but added an extra length of wire for service testing in the future.

Unplugged the dishwasher and turned off the water. In order to pull the dishwasher out I had to remove disconnect the waterline. Opened the dishwasher door to remove the screws attached under the counter holding the dishwasher in place. Once removed I pulled the dishwasher out of the under counter pocket far enough that I could access the rear connections to the heating element. Carefully disconnected the wires connected to the heating element and then loosened the large nuts securing the heating element. Once the nuts were removed I disengaged the element from the holders and removed it from the dishwasher. Installed the new element in place engaging it into the holders inside the dishwasher. Then moved back to the rear of the dishwasher installing the nuts that were removed earlier on the new element and reconnected the cables.

I ordered my new heating element prior to checking the continuity of the old one. I checked the continuity of the old one once it was removed and it was ok, not great but still acceptable so I knew the new element wasn't going to fix the issue, but installed it anyways. My issue was actually the float switch, so if you want to be sure of your issue, remove the current heating element from your dishwasher and check the continuity before ordering if you want to save some money.

Parts Select has excellent video instruction. they are way better than I could describe. the repair went smoothly. the heating element wasn't the issue. and it's may not be yours either. I found that the flood switch was the problem part number PS8690623. It's located under the filter screen in the bottom Yes that long grey plastic thing under the screen. It's held in by two 1/4 inch screws. Use a wet dry vacuum or towels to dry up the water in the sump. ABOVE ALL don't drop the screws. You'll be taking the pump apart if you do. Gently lift out the flood switch. There will be wires plugged into the base. With a flat screwdriver gently pop off the white plug from the green base. The plug only goes on one way reassemble in reverse order.

Followed directions available on YouTube and the written instructions that came with the part. I made the repair more complicated than necessary as I did not notice that the jumpers come attached only to ONE pin out of the box. I took two tries to get the jumper settings right.

I ordered the part recommended.Replaced,still no power.The next part was going to be another $175.00.It was better to stop and get a refund than put $300.00 into a six year old.dishwasher.I should be getting a refund any day now.Parts select was very helpful in that regard.

I watched the video on how to replace the parts and it was very easy. Unplug the power cord, remove the kick plate and insulation. Remove the small square metal cover, remove the 2 screws that hold the control board plate. Unplug the wires, put the control board plate on the counter and replace the board. Then put everything back in the order that you removed it. Plug in the power cord. Very easy to fix. I ordered the door latch but didn't need it so I will just keep it as a spare. It took me less than 45 minutes to replace the part. The problem was the control board. Parts select saved me about 400.00. Thanks, John.