GDF510PMJ5SA General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions
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Dishwasher leaking at bottom of door
Don't remove the door! Unscrew the bolts at each lower corner of the door(this is how the door is attached to the hinges so it is now free). Then open the door fully and slowly pull the door toward you a few inches. This slides the door up the hinges and allows just enough room to slide the old gasket out and and slide the new one in. Then slide the door back down the hinges(pushing it away from you, back into place). Then simply close the door and reinstall the bolts at the bottom corners and all done! I watched several videos and believe me, removing the door to replace this gasket does nothing but turn and small quick repair into a large lengthy one.
Parts Used:
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Brad from FORT THOMAS, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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Water Leaking from Bottom of Door
I fixed this issue by replacing the Dishwasher Tub Gasket (PS11774412) and the gasket on the bottom of the door (PS11700870). Replacing the tub gasket is very easy and straight forward. You just pull it off and put the new one on. The door gasket was much more complicated. See the steps required for replacement below:
The * indicates the part number in the diagram I am referencing
1. Remove the Toe Kick Assembly (*759)
2. Remove screws holding dishwasher to counter and pull the dishwasher out
3. With door shut, disengage the springs on both sides from the arm hinge assemblies *800 (I did this by taking the rope off the pulley hinge *734)
4. Disconnect the wire going from the dishwasher body to the door (there are two or three supports for the wire that need to be removed for it to come free)
5. Open the door about 15 degrees and pull the door upward (only one angle will work for removing the door)
6. Place the door on its front on the ground
7. Remove the two screws (*745) that hold one of the arm hinge assemblies to the door and pull the hinge away from the door (you don't need to pull it all of the way out)
8. Pull the old gasket out to the side and install the new gasket
The * indicates the part number in the diagram I am referencing
1. Remove the Toe Kick Assembly (*759)
2. Remove screws holding dishwasher to counter and pull the dishwasher out
3. With door shut, disengage the springs on both sides from the arm hinge assemblies *800 (I did this by taking the rope off the pulley hinge *734)
4. Disconnect the wire going from the dishwasher body to the door (there are two or three supports for the wire that need to be removed for it to come free)
5. Open the door about 15 degrees and pull the door upward (only one angle will work for removing the door)
6. Place the door on its front on the ground
7. Remove the two screws (*745) that hold one of the arm hinge assemblies to the door and pull the hinge away from the door (you don't need to pull it all of the way out)
8. Pull the old gasket out to the side and install the new gasket
Parts Used:
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Evan from BEAUMONT, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Bad tub gasket
Thanks to this site for saving me about 150.00.This is my third repair with parts from your company. Thank you.
Parts Used:
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Larry from HAMBURG, PA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
8 of 9 people
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Dishwasher was leaking at the bottom of the door (left side)
I removed the old gasket and installed the new one in the same position as the one I removed. I had to feel with my fingers for the ridge to insert the gasket so that it would hold. I must admit that I was skeptical that it would work (the old one didn't even seem very damaged). I ran a cycle and there was no more leaking. We've been using the dishwasher ever since with no issues of leakage.
Very satisfied customer.
Very satisfied customer.
Parts Used:
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Aaron from CLARKSTON, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
8 of 10 people
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Replaced Lower Spray Arm for GE Dishwasher
There was no repair -- it was a simple snap-in replacement of lower spray arm assembly. The shaft holding the lower spray arm in place is plastic so of course it broke when a utensil blocked the arm from spinning.
I appreciate the Parts Select company for enabling me to purchase a replacement part though that allows me to keep my old dishwasher working.
I appreciate the Parts Select company for enabling me to purchase a replacement part though that allows me to keep my old dishwasher working.
Parts Used:
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Wendy from CHESAPEAKE, VA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
8 of 10 people
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lower door gasket deteriorated/moldy
The dishwasher had been installed before we added 3/4 oak floor, so I could not pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. That will be a major project when the dishwasher dies.
To remove the door, I removed the two 1/4 " screws on the right and left bottom of the door. I used a box wrench since that was the only way to reach them. One had corroded due to a leak. it took some coaxing but finally came loose. The hint about opening the door 27 degrees and propping it open with two Allan wrenches through the hinge holes was very helpful. Then I lifted the door a little and gently pushed toward the counter releasing the door form the hinges. I took the door off to find a leak and found the right corner edge of the inside tub had cracked. Not sure how this happened. I cleaned and sanded the crack area and used J-B Weld to epoxy the crack. Replacing the gasket was easy. Slide out the old, slide in the new. Everything went back together smoothly. If I hadn't needed to repair the tub, the hint about opening the door all the way and sliding it out part way might have worked to change the gasket. Note. Unlike a stove door the dishwasher door is not that heavy.
To remove the door, I removed the two 1/4 " screws on the right and left bottom of the door. I used a box wrench since that was the only way to reach them. One had corroded due to a leak. it took some coaxing but finally came loose. The hint about opening the door 27 degrees and propping it open with two Allan wrenches through the hinge holes was very helpful. Then I lifted the door a little and gently pushed toward the counter releasing the door form the hinges. I took the door off to find a leak and found the right corner edge of the inside tub had cracked. Not sure how this happened. I cleaned and sanded the crack area and used J-B Weld to epoxy the crack. Replacing the gasket was easy. Slide out the old, slide in the new. Everything went back together smoothly. If I hadn't needed to repair the tub, the hint about opening the door all the way and sliding it out part way might have worked to change the gasket. Note. Unlike a stove door the dishwasher door is not that heavy.
Parts Used:
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Stephen from MATTAPOISETT, MA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Wrench set
7 of 7 people
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Leak at bottom of door
Online instructions said to remove door. Found no need to. Only need to release one hinge by sliding door upward after removing 2 screws at bottom edge of door which releases both hinges. With door lifted just pry out old seal (it will be stuck so use a strong screwdriver). Then slide new seal in place. Lower door back down on hinge. Job done.
Parts Used:
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Gregory from POLLOCK PINES, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Unit wouldnot drain
Removed the screen cover and then removed two bolts with nut driver and removed white plastic retaining piece. Pulled flood switch out of housing (raise approximately 2 inches) then unfasten electrical plug. New part connects to electrical plug (pnly can fit one way so no problem with orientation). Pushed floid switch bsck into lace and attached white plastic retainer with two bolts and then set screen cover back. Very simple and easy.
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Bernard from CLAYTON, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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No water
Turn off water supply, turn of power to dishwasher, remove mounting screws, slide dishwasher out of opening, place a pan under water supply valve, remove water line, remove screws holding the valve in place, disconnect electrical connector. Reverse process to install new valve.
Parts Used:
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Scott from FOUNTAINTOWN, IN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Valve was leaking
Took old valve assembly off and replaced with new assenbly
Parts Used:
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Jay from ABINGDON, MD
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
7 of 8 people
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No water
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Jeffrey from BENNINGTON, VT
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Pump would not drain tub
Repair went fine, getting the right pump was the problem. I started with my local appliance parts house, they ordered part came in 3 days. Upon picking it up I noticed that the pump was shaped slightly different and the electrical hook up was totally different. Asking the parts guy what happened he said they must have sent the wrong pump. Returned it for credit and ordered it again. Four days later the same exact thing occurs. Parts guy credits my account and says better go directly to GE. Wait 10 days for GE, for this part and once again same odd looking pump with wrong electrical plug. My son who is a welder by trade asks me if there is a packet of parts in carton and yes there is. He says that perhaps there is a converter for the electrical. That was the solution no one told us that pump was universal and needed the adapter. Not even the 2 different tecks at first house. Perhaps that should be stated in the part would have saved us tons of time. Thanks D
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dennis from GRAHAM, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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tub gasket was damaged
damage to gasket (had a slit in the area of the utensii baskets.
causing lower right corner of gasket to come out. caused leakage to floor from the lower right corner of door...
As I am 77 yrs of age I was leary of diy but thanks to the reps of
"Parts Select" I actually was able to put in the new gasket myself.It did take some time and lots of patience as it had to be seated correctly..I also had to make sure the new gasket was in the groove as it is supposed to be.
causing lower right corner of gasket to come out. caused leakage to floor from the lower right corner of door...
As I am 77 yrs of age I was leary of diy but thanks to the reps of
"Parts Select" I actually was able to put in the new gasket myself.It did take some time and lots of patience as it had to be seated correctly..I also had to make sure the new gasket was in the groove as it is supposed to be.
Parts Used:
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Susan from STATEN ISLAND, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
7 of 8 people
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Strange noise coming from the dishwasher, later a small leak appearing underneath
A noisy dishwasher and water coming from underneath was being caused by a torn hose that is factory connected to the diverter. It was a little difficult to see at first as the hose sits slightly kinked when in it's normal position. Access to the diverter involves removal of the circulation pump. I ordered a new diverter which comes with metal screw on clamps. The main difficulty in installing is the positioning and alignment of the diverter and pump. My first effort resulted in a ripping of the attached diverter hose as I attempted to secure. I ordered another diverter. This time I used a lubricant to allow movement of the connecting hoses and made sure to not overtighten the clamps. I used a small mirror to make sure that the various hoses sat properly. Alignment took a bit of time. I then gently tightened the hoses. I ran the dishwasher, and found a leak, meaning that I needed to tighten these clamps a bit more. This is a doable repair that needs patience. The dishwasher is now very quiet and runs great!
Parts Used:
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Donaldo from ALTADENA, CA
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Dishwasher Would Not Drain
I checked all the drain lines and filter for blockage. All looked good. I unplugged the unit and unscrewed the two screws adhereing the dishwasker to the counter. I shopvacced the water out of the bottom of the unit, slid it out, and carefully placed it on its back to access the pump. I unplugged the power to the pump, removed the intake and outake ring fasteners. Carefully removed the pump and inserted the new part, mopping up water as I went. Replace the rings, plugged in power to the pump, righted the unit and put it back. Replaced filter with the one that came with the kit.
Parts Used:
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Steve from CHASKA, MN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 6 people
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