GBS279PVQ03 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Used a Phillips head screw driver to remove cover that was covering the over bottom 1/3 of the installed gasket. I then used flathead screwdriver to help remove gasket from the "pins" that were in the gasket that held it to the oven. Installed new gasket inserting pins into the oven. Then I installed cover over bottom 1/3 of gasket. Overall process was very easy

Replaced oven temp sensor, removed oven door and interior racks for easy access to oven upper rear sensor access. Used philips head screw driver to remove both screws, gently pulled old senor out of reat oven wall until electrical connector clear of rear wall, disconnected connector, connected new sensor and gently pushed wiring and connector back into opening, reinstalled door and racks. Ran open thru cycle and used oven thermometer to check temp. fast easy install

The existing bake element was charred and in pieces so could not be pulled out. We destructively disassembled the range and pulled out the pieces along with the melted insulation. The wall behind was also scorched.

Removed the door and laid it flat with the cracked glass facing up. applied duct tape to the broken glass to help hold it together. Removed the screws from the frame holding the glass. lifted the frame off,removed the broken glass and replaced it with the new piece. replaced the frame. and put the door back on the oven.

First I cut off power ! 2 screws for oven trim,4 more to disconnect from cabinet. Hardest part was pulling oven out and pushing back in. I found a big box of correct size to rest it on so I didn't need to disconnect the powerline. 8 more screws to remove the back panel. 2 screws to remove the thermostat.Then put it back together. New part had arrived sooner than expected, cost of the part was less than a minimum service call would have been! I absolutly will use your site again.PS Wife was amazed and now thinks I'm a genious.

I first did a search with my issue, found out there were many others with the same issue. That then led me to see the part, a fuse / thermostat, was the culprit and easy to replace it seemed. But first called a service co. who confirmed my findings, and quoted a fix of a $2-300! So I bought the part; worse case I'd have someone else install. The web site noted the few screws to remove and a key suggestion to find a box of same height to easily slide out oven; I used a porter cable nail gun case which worked great. Took my time removing trim, mounting screws etc., slid out oven easy. Removed back plate and there was the older one. Removed and installed new in a minute. Spent more time cleaning around trim than actual install. What a great day it was. Wife was happy too!

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

Shut off power at breaker and removed oven door to lessen weight. Removed oven trim and retaining screws and tried pulling out of cabinet. Stuck on power cable, so had to remove Mircrowave oven above to get to power cable plug. Removed oven back cover panel to access thermostat. Easy to unplug and replace with new thermostat. Reassembled and turned on power. Cooked dinner in oven.

I removed the two stainless trim pieces (2 screws) and then two screws which hold the oven frame to the cabinet. Be careful to put a pad on your floor before you pull the oven out of the cabinet as there are sharp edges on the bottom of the oven. I removed apprximately 12 screws holding the back panel in place. The fixed set point thermostat is in middle toward the top of the oven cavity after removing the rear panel. Just remove two screws and slide the terminal connectors onto the new thermostat. Very easy job for someone who is not too handy.

Repair was fairly simple, unscrewed oven from cabinet and pulled it out. Then remove screws on back panel to access the thermostat location. Unscrew old thermostat, unplug it from connectors and plug in new thermostat. Then screw back in place, replace cover and pop oven back in place. Now fire it up, worked for me! Thanks to part-select. Good luck everyone. Probably saved $200 service call.

I followed the instructions per a YouTube video. My older model was slightly different in parts used in the video, but the general idea was the same. Very happy with current repair / parts. The door now opens smooth as glass, and I even got a chance to clean some internal parts inside the door.

https://youtu.be/tAypQqC5cxo?si=YoDaVMHtalPP3mhO

Turn off oven circuit breakers. Removed builtin double unit out from enclosure to access the back. Remove sheet metal covers to expose heating element electrical connections. Double Broiler element on top should read about 33 ohms and 56 ohms. One was open so it needed replacement. Bottom hidden element should read 28 ohms. It was open. Remove broiler element screws and replace it from the front. The hidden bottom element is difficult to get at. Remove 4 screws holding up a pan with insulation. Bend it down. Using scissors I cut a long slot through the insulation to access two center screws holding the element to a long metal strip and 4 screws holding this strip to the oven frame. The screws were tight, don't strip the heads. My element was broken and distorted, so little by little you coax it out the back. Attach the mounting strip to the new element with 2 screws and slide it back in. Then reattach the mounting bracket to the frame with the 4 screws. Easier said than done..... New elements fit perfect and worked good.

I found that what was keeping the old temp sensor electrical connection attached to the stove-side connection was a little tab. It wasn't obvious that that was the thing that was keeping the connection secure but there weren't any other alternatives. So pushing the tab up with the metal probe (just a narrow rigid metal wire) allowed me to pull the connection apart.

All this takes place way at the back of the oven so its difficult to fiddle with a screwdriver and the retaining screws at arms length. Putting a bit of scotch tape around the screw to keep it attached to the screwdriver kept it from falling off. My hand was a bit shaky extended like that so that was the way to go.

Bottom line, if your oven won't reach or hold the temp you dial in on the control panel it's the temperature sensor. Now if I set it for 300 deg. that's what I get.

My oven (late 90's/early 2000's model) didn't have the flip-down hinge locks shown in the video. It seems Whirlpool/Kitchenaid changed the hinges even though they didn't change the model number of the oven. With my style hinges, you have to put Allen wrenches or bent nails in the holes just behind the hinge pins. Then close the door almost all the way and lift it out to separate the hinges. Spring force holds the nails in tightly until you replace the door. This video was very helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7oRZdIN6m0

Also, my door had 3 different kinds of sheet metal screws. Two of them have similar heads but different threads. Keep track of which is which for when you put everything back together.

Thanks to video provided by PartSelect the repair was fast and easy. My second experience with an appliance repair with parts and video from PartSelect. I am a happy customer.