FLSG72GCS4 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.

The part number was on the knob itself. I did a google search and found it at this site and ordered it. My initial surprise was how fast i received the part. I installed it in about 3 seconds and it's been fine ever since.

I will definitely use this site again. Easy part identification and FAST SHIPPING!

From previous responses on this site. I just followed their lead. If I had not found these folks, and the responses, it would have been a nightmare. It looked like and I thought the dryer came apart from the back! But in reality it comes apart from the front!! Absolutely fantastic site and help. Fast shipping, I ordered on Wednesday before Labor Day, didn't expect the parts until the following Wednesday, but received the parts on Saturday morning, and had the dryer back running by Sunday AM. Never even ran out of clean clothes!!!!!

This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.

This is a stacker washer/dryer combination. Took off the back panel of the dryer, but found out the front needed to come off instead,to replace the blower wheel. This took more time than replacing the wheel. Was pretty easy to get to the wheel and replace. The center part had broken so replaced wheel and clamp. The push in fastner was broke, which held in the lint screen part. Was easy to install this. Dryer sounds as good as it did when it was new. It was very easy to find the correct part and shipping was overnight! Great service.

First I turned off the water. Since the pump is at the front of the machine,it was easy to get too. I then removed the hoses by squeezing the hose clamps with pliers. I removed the electrical plug and then removed the 3 screws holding the pump to the base. I changed orientation of the outlets per instructions,which was very easy. Installation of the new pump was performed in reverse. I had difficulty getting one of the hose clamps back on and changed it to a screw clamp. I turned the water on,ran the machine and checked for leaks. Partselect saved me several hundred dollars in repair costs.

Lifted top
removed adgetator
removed tub top
removed inside tub
removed inside tub holder bracket
repaced seal
replaced,replaced.....

followed the instructions on a blog

White Westinghouse WDG547PB Dryer. Removed access panel (lower left front of dryer) by removing phillips head screw below access panel. Removed two phillips head screws holding bracket that holds coil in place. Removed coil, disconnected electrical connector. Connected electrical connector to new coil and set in place. Repeat for second coil. Reinstall bracket and access panel. Job complete. Dryer back in service with no problems.

Removed dryer front, unscrewed 3 screws in center hub, replaced bearing assembly. Removed old basket seal with razor scraper, cleaned surface with mineral spirits, applied new basket seal. Replaced dryer front and project was done. Dryer has no more sqeaks.

Unplug dryer (gotta say it). Remove the two screws that hold in the lint catch. Remove top of dryer (two screws in back hold brackets, the front snaps on). remove two screws along the front edge to take front panel off the dryer (there are also clips). Unhook the two electrical connectors that control the door shut off. Once the front is off, remove the old glide and felt and install the new parts. Be sure not to step on the tube of contact cement, making it explode inside the bag. That sucked. Reassemble.

Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together

I removed the top of the washer by removing two screws on the back. I located and bypassed the lid switch to make sure that wasn't the problem. The problem still existed so I removed the two screws that hold the front panel of the washer. Using a flashlight, I located the drive belt and immediately saw that it was out of position and had pieces missing. I cut and removed the old belt, placed the new belt on the tub pulley and slowly maneuvered it onto the motor drive wheel. I then squeezed the tensioner pulley so that the belt was seated. I turned the timer dial which started the washer and it immediately began pumping the water out of the tub. Problem solved!

After the new replacement part arrived, I took off the complete back panel (after unplugging the electrical and shutting off the hot & cold water supply). I disconnected both hot & cold water hoses, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the water valve, unplugged the 2 electrical wires for the water valve sending unit, unclamped the outlet water hose. Then I reversed order with new water valve. Put everthing back together in about 20 minutes overall. I did also replace the hot & cold water supply hoses with a better quality hose. Works like new! Thank you very much.

removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve was made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.