F71C24RJB0 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the dishwasher from under the counter, and ran to diagnose the problem. Drain pump ran, but circulating motor did not. Ordered the replacement circ pump / motor assy, and slid the washer back in its hole.
When the new motor arrived, I slid it back out, disconnected everything, and drained the water from the bottom. Then I tipped the washer on its side, removed the old motor and installed the new one following included instructions. I did have to use the new wiring harness, and found the new one had only two leads where the original had three. I connected the blue and white leads, and left the original green loose.
All in all, it was an easy repair that could be done by anyone with a basic set of skills.

The Parts finder was the big help. After that all that was needed was to loosen the clamps and replace the old hose with the new one A piece of cake. Slide the washer back into place and replace the screws that hold it to the counter. Out and back in, 30min. top end to complet the job

tossed the old one a replaced with a new.Hardest 10 second repair ever....It took 10 seconds had to open and close the door.

First I disconnected the dishwasher, then I disconnected the drain hose. I pulled the machine from under the counter and turned it on its side, so that I could see where the drain pump was. I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the pump out and disconnected the two wires. I took a good look where each wire was attached. I also had to disconnect the pump from two small hoses. I installed the new pump, I had ordered from PartSelect, following the reverse procedure. I reconnected the dishwasher and slided back under the counter. I confess I didn't believe it would work. I was prepared for failure. The machine started, then when the cycle changed, I heard the water draining into the waist pipe under the sink. New hot water filled the machine. Would this water be drained out and at the end, after the rinsing cycle, would the dishwasher be empty and completely free of water? I waited for the end of the rinsing, then I opened the door and checked for any water left at the bottom. Suddenly a feeling of joy and pride went through me. All water had been drained out by the new pump. I had repaired my dishwasher. I didn't have to throw this handsome and well made machine into the street. My kitchen sink was no longer full of glasses and dishes. I was washing all I had accumulated during the week. My kitchen became clean and organized just like before. At this point I took an oath: when my dishwasher would break down next time, I would repair it , even if its motor, the most expensive part, had to be replaced. I was going to do it with the help of the experts at PartSelect. Thanks guys for your help and for inspiring confidence in myself. I DID IT! What a great feeling!
Now I understand the feeling a doctor must experience when he brings back to life a dying patient.

New one snaps into place easily.

Turned off power to dishwasher.Used a screw driver to rermoved the outer top of door.Used star wrench to remove door latch.Repalced wire for wire on door latch.Reinstalled door latch with star wrench.Reinstalled outer top of door with screw driver.Turned power on.Tryed door lath.Operation is Ok.Ran dish washer.No leaks.Operation is OK.

Water had been dripping for quite some time causing the floor boards to warp and buckle causing the door to no longer align. Water drip could be seen coming from the motor area. Ordered the O rings and replaced. Get Motor & Pump schematic Pub to visualize how parts fit together. I recommend getting motor (~$90)which comes with O rings (~$50 for O rings alone) because, as it turns out, the leak was in motor. I will post repair process in separate posting.

Removed 6 screws, pulled the front cover forward, removed the old door latch, installed the new latch, replaced the screws, DONE! Took about 10 minutes. The new door latch works to open and close the door, and the dishwasher runs fine when the door is closed. However, the new door latch does not lock the door into place like the old one did. I didn't remove the screws and loor latch assembly again, but there must be a difference between the old part or the new part. And I noticed that the old part number and the part number of the replacement part are not the same, although the website indicated that it was the correct part for my model.

Much easier than I expected. The bottom of the door gasket simply pulled out and the new one slid back into the same spot without any issues. That gasket did not solve the problem. The unit continued to leak. We waited for the back ordered door gasket approximately 2 week to come in. Once it came in the process took about 10 minutes. The old gasket easily pulled out of it's groove around the door. That gasket was dried out and worn in several places. We fitted the new gasket in the groove, trimmed off the excess, closed the door and ran the dishwasher and had no leaks. The two gaskets definitely did the trick. This is an easy DIY for anyone and the parts were priced right!!

Our dishwasher sat in a warehouse for a year after our move from CA to TX. When I finally installed it, there was some sort of white mineral deposit that had built up on the heater element. I didn't notice it back in CA. I tried to get as much as possible off but it kept building. So I purchased a new heater element. It's been in for a few weeks and my wife thinks the build up is happening again.
To Repair;
Unscrew the dishwasher from the counter. They'll be one or two screws attaching the dishwasher on the underside of the counter.
Pull the washer out carefully.
Remove any dishes and the bottom rack.
Tilt washer on it's side.
Remove wire connections to heater element (They slide right off but make sure to remember which one goes where)
Unscrew the nuts that are holding the element on. I used some pliers. It wasn't difficult.
Remove old element and replace with new.
Reverse order.

Grab the tab on the support and rotate 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to unlock it, then lift it off. The lower spray arm simply pops off the support by spreading two tabs underneath.

Align the opening in the lower spray arm support with the outlet post in the bottom and rotate 1/4 turn clockwise to lock.

*Note: direction to remove the filter basket differed from the manual. Visually line up the notches and do not twist too far when locking or you WILL break the retainer tabs.

Simply center the lower spray arm over the support and press down until it locks into place.

Remove 3 screws from stem assembly. Swapped the old for the new, replace screws. Installed and lock lower wash wand. Fixed in 5 min. Great service and prices. My wife thanks you. (Had to hand wash dishes for a few days) thanks

I'm a stay-at-home mom of 3 kids, so I enlisted the help of my oldest son (5 years old) for this job while the 2 little ones were asleep! First we cut the power to the dishwasher, then we removed the 2 bottom screws on the stainless steel front and slid it off to expose the back of the dispenser. We removed the red and white wires from the left side of the dispenser, took out the 6 screws holding the dispenser in place, put in the new dispenser, hooked up the red and white wires (in the right order), and flipped the breaker back on! We ran a cycle to make sure it worked, and it did!! My husband was thrilled! He thought for sure we needed a new dishwasher! :o) Thank you, PartSelect!

DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO REMOVE THE INNER DOOR SCREWS!!!!! I was and added about 10 minutes to a repair that should take less than 5. The lower door gasket just pulls out the bottom of the door. No tools required, just pull it out. The new one just pushes in, no click or anything, just make sure it bottoms into the groove.

This was pretty easy. It was a guess as to the problem, but there much debate , if the water isn't moving it had to be the pump, right?. So i replaced the circulation pump. 2 screws on the top and two trim screws on the bottom, and it slides right out. Then UNPLUG IT.. Take the screen out of the bottom on the inside and make sure you get all the water out or it will end up on the floor when you tip it on it's side. The directions were ok, i looked over them briefly but didn't use them. tools were, phillips srewdriver, torx driver (pump bracket srews) wire stripper/crimper (for the plug adaptor) and a heat gun, (for the heat shrink tube for the crimp connection). Overall it was pretty easy. the pump was made to be easy to replace. 45 min and back in action.