EMO3000CCC04 General Electric Microwave - Instructions
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Original Turntable Coupler shaft broke in two pieces
I was able to simply lift the broken turntable coupler from the bottom of the microwave. The smaller broken piece fell inside the body of the microwave. I tried unsuccessfully to retrieve it. When the new part arrived, I simply snapped it in place. Everything works good as new!
Parts Used:
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Scott from Manville, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
62 of 70 people
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Socket cracks and goes brittle from heat from bulb.
Unplugged the microwave first, then removed the screws that hold the cover in place. This gives easy access to the socket. Remove the screws that hold the socket in, unplug old socket, replace with new one and you are back in the light again.
Parts Used:
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Thomas from Deltona, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
59 of 72 people
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Oven would not power up
There are 4 thermostats (aka TCO = Thermal Cut Out) in the GE JVM1440BH04
The schematic is under the cover in a black envelope to the top left of the unit if you face the door.
Check the fuse first. You can remove the front grate, then the numpad on the right. The fuse is right behind it. It's a 250V 20A Class F fuse.
There are four (4) TCOs or Thermal Cut Out thermostats in this puppy:
1) There is a thermostat behind the button panel to the left, facing down. If blown, it breaks the power coming into the unit and will cause a no power situation.
2) There is another TCO or thermostat near the top lamp, to the left, in a small cavity. That one also breaks power to the unit and will cause a no power situation. It's a 100 C / 0 C thermostat. This was the one that blew on me after I left the stove running (for heating in a black-out) under the microwave.
"Cavity TCO" or "Thermostat" part number 61 on the schematics, part number PS239319
3) There is yet another power-breaking TCO or thermostat in the cavity behind the fan that cools the microwave coils. You have to remove the sheet metal on the right of the microwave to access it. This one also breaks power and will cause a no power situation.
1), 2) and 3) should test out to be 0 Ohms with a resistance meter (Digital Multimeter) if working correctly.
4) There is a thermostat which normally does not let current through it. It is mounted in a vertical position to the back wall behind the front panel on the right. This one is used for the sensor reheat function apparently and will close when the temperature in the microwave reaches approx. 60 C.
4) should have infinite resistance with a resistance meter under normal circumstances.
The schematic is under the cover in a black envelope to the top left of the unit if you face the door.
Check the fuse first. You can remove the front grate, then the numpad on the right. The fuse is right behind it. It's a 250V 20A Class F fuse.
There are four (4) TCOs or Thermal Cut Out thermostats in this puppy:
1) There is a thermostat behind the button panel to the left, facing down. If blown, it breaks the power coming into the unit and will cause a no power situation.
2) There is another TCO or thermostat near the top lamp, to the left, in a small cavity. That one also breaks power to the unit and will cause a no power situation. It's a 100 C / 0 C thermostat. This was the one that blew on me after I left the stove running (for heating in a black-out) under the microwave.
"Cavity TCO" or "Thermostat" part number 61 on the schematics, part number PS239319
3) There is yet another power-breaking TCO or thermostat in the cavity behind the fan that cools the microwave coils. You have to remove the sheet metal on the right of the microwave to access it. This one also breaks power and will cause a no power situation.
1), 2) and 3) should test out to be 0 Ohms with a resistance meter (Digital Multimeter) if working correctly.
4) There is a thermostat which normally does not let current through it. It is mounted in a vertical position to the back wall behind the front panel on the right. This one is used for the sensor reheat function apparently and will close when the temperature in the microwave reaches approx. 60 C.
4) should have infinite resistance with a resistance meter under normal circumstances.
Parts Used:
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Andras from Lexington, MA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
44 of 59 people
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Oven wouldn't heat
Over the range microwave. Replaced magnetron. Completely disassemble the case top and bottom.
Remove screws from bottom of HV transformer. Magnetron will not clear without this removal.
Remove nuts with socket from top of Magnetron. Remove thermo unit from old magnetron and attach it to new. Replace and bolt down Mag. Replace and screw in HV transformer. Make sure all wires are reconnected.
Put it back up on the wall. Took about three hours from taking it down from wall and putting it back up.
Remove screws from bottom of HV transformer. Magnetron will not clear without this removal.
Remove nuts with socket from top of Magnetron. Remove thermo unit from old magnetron and attach it to new. Replace and bolt down Mag. Replace and screw in HV transformer. Make sure all wires are reconnected.
Put it back up on the wall. Took about three hours from taking it down from wall and putting it back up.
Parts Used:
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CARTER from OXNARD, CA
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
37 of 38 people
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oven wouldn't heat
1. remove microwave from wall
2. remove cover (many screws)
3. remove nuts holding magnetron in place (4)
4. remove magnetron (this is a pain due to the plastic molding used to direct cooling air through the magnetron
5. get new magnetron in place (this was even more fun to find the right angles to tilt to get the magnetron to fit
6. re-tighten the 4 nuts on the magentron
7. put the cover back on
8. put the unit back on the wall.
bonus repair: the display flickered while the magnetron was on (cooking ) prior to the magnetron dying. found a ribbon cable on the control board to the display with an aluminum foil shield that had peeled off (adhesive failure). re-installing the aluminum shield with packaging tape, and the display no longer flickers
2. remove cover (many screws)
3. remove nuts holding magnetron in place (4)
4. remove magnetron (this is a pain due to the plastic molding used to direct cooling air through the magnetron
5. get new magnetron in place (this was even more fun to find the right angles to tilt to get the magnetron to fit
6. re-tighten the 4 nuts on the magentron
7. put the cover back on
8. put the unit back on the wall.
bonus repair: the display flickered while the magnetron was on (cooking ) prior to the magnetron dying. found a ribbon cable on the control board to the display with an aluminum foil shield that had peeled off (adhesive failure). re-installing the aluminum shield with packaging tape, and the display no longer flickers
Parts Used:
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david from elmira, NY
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
44 of 59 people
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both lights burned out
After reading some of the comments that others wrote, I decided to order the light sockets along with the replacement bulbs. As predicted, the old light bulbs broke when I tried to remove them - the bulb separated from the base which was still screwed in the socket. After removing the screws that held the bottom panel, I was able to remove the socket assemblies with ease. After inspection of the old sockets, I was glad I ordered new sockets - the old sockets were burned in some spots and very brittle. The parts arrived within a day and a half after I ordered them, but when the parts arrived, one of the bulbs was broken (happened during shipping). I called the office phone number and talked to a really pleasant technician who refunded me the price of the broken bulb and placed an order for a replacement. That was the Wednesday evening before Thanksgiving Day. I got the replacement bulb yesterday (Tuesday) morning - still really quick considering the Thanksgiving holiday. All of the parts are installed and are working excellent. I am definately going to keep their WEBsite for future use, and I'll be letting my friends know about them. Thanks PartSelect, you've earned my business.
Parts Used:
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Rick from Federal Way, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
31 of 36 people
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I diagnosed the problem incorrectly: based on a previous repair.
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Ralph from Brandon, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
64 of 137 people
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Noise and no Heat on Microwave oven.
First, I waste $65 by calling some "REPAIR" service. They showed at home and charge me that just to tell me
Second, I researched on the web and ordered a part, which was not the issue. I waste abnother $72
Third, I found Part-Select and got the right answer: the Diode was the problem. Ordered the part form Part-Select and it FIxed it !!!
Note: I did not buy a new microwave because this one is mounted on the wall and it will cost me +$800 just the lowest price.
Second, I researched on the web and ordered a part, which was not the issue. I waste abnother $72
Third, I found Part-Select and got the right answer: the Diode was the problem. Ordered the part form Part-Select and it FIxed it !!!
Note: I did not buy a new microwave because this one is mounted on the wall and it will cost me +$800 just the lowest price.
Parts Used:
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Luis from Plano, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
33 of 49 people
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appliance stopped working -- no readout on screen
1. turned off electricity -- unplugged the unit 2. removed 3 screws on top of top vent, removed vent screen then I located the little white cylindrical fuse and popped it out with a table knife. Then I popped in the new fuse. Replaced the vent screen and screws -- plugged in the appliance and it is working again.
Parts Used:
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Carolyn from ARMONK, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
24 of 24 people
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Light bulbs wouldn't come out of socket
I ended up breaking one bulb trying to remove a burnt bulb for replacement. We then tried removing the other bulb and it wouldn't come out either. I googled the problem and found PartSelect and an explaination of the problem. Heat from either the stove or the bulbs had fused the bulbs into the sockets. Comments on the problem explained that you just remove the bottome pannel (we had seven screws), unplug the old sockets, insert the new and new bulbs and reattach the panel. It was quick and no problems to correct. We did discover the microwave was on its own breaker, make sure to disconnect or cutoff power to the microwave before you start.
Parts Used:
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Toni from Denton, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
18 of 19 people
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Suddenly had no heat. All else worked fine. A deep odd hum sound.
This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.
First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.
The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.
The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
Parts Used:
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Katherine from WILLIAMSTOWN, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
17 of 18 people
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turntable wouldnt turn,and light sockets were cracked and brittle.
turntable coupler was an easy switch from inside the cooking area(pull out and push in the new part).The light sockets were accessed by removing five screws under the microwave,lowering the panel and replacing the light sockets(one screw in each and two electrical plugins)simple....
Parts Used:
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Kerry from Davis Junction, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
18 of 22 people
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Changing the bulb that illuminates the cooktop
Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.
Parts Used:
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LUCY from BALLWIN, MO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
21 of 33 people
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Glass turn table made loud noise while turning then stopped turning
This repair could not have been easier! The website was great at helping to identify the problem and the part needed. Users discribing how they did the repair gave me the confidence to do it myself. I got the part the day after I ordered it, installed it and my microwave was a good as new! It was as simple as unscrewing seven screws to remove the bottom of the microwave. Then two more screws to remove the part. Unplug the broken drive, plug in the new one and screw everything back together! Don't forget to unplug your microwave before you begin.
Great website!
Great website!
Parts Used:
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Linda from Le Claire, IA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
17 of 21 people
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Replace Door Film
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Roy from Alta Loma, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
21 of 36 people
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