DU1010XTXT4 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Had to use a standard flat screw driver to pry off the old mount. used a phillpips head driver to fasten the mount to the spray arm and pushed the new mount in place.

I pulled the unit away from the cabinet, unplugged the washer and water line(not long enough to reach) removed two nuts from the underside and replaced the heating unit.

I took out the old one and started in the lower left corner and threaded it all around the edge to make sure the placement and length was correct. Then I came back around with a plastic spatula to firmly seat the gasket into the groove. Worked perfectly and havent had any trouble since!

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.

The repair was easy. Getting the unit to slide out from under the counter was more time consuming.
After water and power is disconnected, tip the unit over onto one side to gain access to bottom. Look for two white composite plastic posts (insulators) about 2" long each with a single wire inside. Remove the two wire connectors then unscrew the insulators from the old heating element using an adjustable wrench. Inside the box remove the two metal element supports and pull out the old element. Clean and dry the area in and around the openings where the new element will be re-inserted. Carefully place the new element into the holes with the included new rubber washers. Re-install the two metal element supports on the inside of box. On the bottom, re-install the two insulators to the ends of the element, do not to tighten too much to avoid over compressing the rubber washers which could cause premature cracking. Reconnect both wires and check continuity from the door mircro-switch (white-violet) lead to the (white-red) lead on Electronic Controller connector #1 (P6). The circuit thru the element should be good if the Multimeter reads 10-35 ohms. Put the unit securely back under the counter and run a test wash. Works fine now.
I do recommend, if don't know how to use a multimeter or are concerned about accessing the electronic control box; contact a professional.

Looked at other side of top rack which still had the stop. Just had to orient the direction of the stop and push it firmly onto the rack arm. Took a couple tries, but it went in and locked. Works perfectly. Inexpensive and easy fix to to very annoying problem.

I unscrewed the dishwasher from the counter (two screws under the countertop), and pulled it out about a foot so I could access the friction sleeve. I used a needle nosed pliers to slip a spring latch off the door. Then I slipped the new friction sleeve on and reattached the spring. Tested the door. Success! Super easy. About 5 minutes of work.

I turned off the power to the dishwasher, removed the kick plate, raised the front levelers, disconnected the electric to the appliance, turned off the water supply to the appliance, disconnected the water supply, disconnected the drain system from the garbage disposal, unscrew the appliance from the countertop, then I remove the appliance from underneath the counter. I then tilted the appliance back and then in screwed the plastic retainers that held the heater element in place, removed the old one, replaced it with the new one in reversed the whole process

Our Kitchenaid dishwasher was leaking so I called a repair service. I gave the model number and serial number over the phone and explained the problem. I was told the rubber gasket would need to be replaced. When the repairman came 5 days later he told me that the gasket needed to be replaced but he didn't have a new one on his truck. He ordered one and said he would be back in a week to repair the dishwasher. That took 10 minutes at the most. He then gave me a bill for $200.49 ($71.49 for the part and $129 for the labor)that I had to pay right then. I wrote him a check so he would leave and immediately called the repair company to tell them the price was outrageous and that I had never before paid for a repair before the work was done. I was simply told it was their policy. I then told them I was stopping payment on the check - which I did. I checked on-line for the part and found your web-site and the the part I needed for $27.62. I ordered it on a Monday, it arrived on Tuesday and my husband easily installed it that evening. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Eay repair. Replacement tube was one piece and only required removing one phillip's head screw to replace

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

put new hose on, very easy.

Looked under machine, saw wire going to heater was burned off.Seal on heater failed, water leaked onto terminal, shorted and burned, ruined plastic terminal nut.Replaced heater and wire terminal, and nut, took minutes, works great.

I am NOT an appliance technician. I am simply a somewhat handy homeowner. Removal of outer door panel requires removal of two screws from inside the top of the door assembly at the latch, as well as all of the obvious mating screws from around the perimeter of the inside of the door assembly. Use a #15 torx driver bit. Pull top of panel out (away from the machine) by maybe two inches, then lift the outer panel up to clear the bottom end of it from the lower positioning brackets. DO NOT lever the top of the panel outward. Keep it close to the inner door. It may take bit of an upward tug to dislodge. Careful here - the outer panel will simply fall free. Two wire pigtails that are connected to components on the inner door are short, so be careful not to strain them after dislodging the outer panel. One is connected to the dispenser. Disconnect both as to provide good clearance for the component replacement. The main wire harness is of sufficient length as to not cause a problem. The six 3/16 hex head screws holding the dispenser in place are easy to remove. There are two small sheet metal tabs that keep the device in place after the screws are removed, but a rectangular mounting frame or bezel will come off, along with the little black curtain that protects the unit. The tabs are at upper left and lower right at the perimeter of the opening in the inner panel. They must be levered gently as to allow the dispenser to push inward for removal. After removal, spend some time cleaning the inner surface of the inner panel as to ensure that the new device will make a watertight contact when fastened in place. Bend the tabs slightly back to an inward position, and install the new dispenser with the socket and motor to your left as you look at it from outside the machine. It clicks in to place and stays put. The bezel mounts only one way (in terms of being upside down) and the flat surface must be toward the inner door. Re-positioning the little black curtain is tricky but if you follow the marks in the material from the previous mount it should work out OK. Tighten the screws evenly as to ensure a good seal. Move the outer cover closer and reconnect the two plugs. Use an object to wedge the inner door open by a few inches, and lift the front panel such that you can position it and slide it back down on the inner panel as to re-engage the lower holding brackets. This keeps the bottom of the panel in place during the reassembly. Now for the fun part... The upper end of the outer panel has to be positioned just right against the inner panel in order to seat the two long screws that straddle the latch assembly from the inside. You'll need clamps, or two people. There's a flat rubber seal on the top edge of the inner door. See that it is seated properly, and then that it becomes covered by the outer panel. If one person firmly holds the panels precisely in position, then the other person can install the screws to a point of being mildly snug. The other two longer screws go in the top-most holes at the upper/outer corners of the door assembly. Place them next. From there, you can carefully replace all the rest of the screws. Only after all of the screws are in place should you make all of them tight. You're done.

The water valve float lever was broke. So I replaced that and the water level switch. Probably didn’t have to replace switch. Very easy!!