DFE29JGDIWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I recieved the package with the correct part number but the wrong part inside. The item in the package does not even resemble the part on the GE parts website. Tried to contact parts select but no luck.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

I squeezed the two tits together to get the lower part in the cutouts and this helped the tits to slide in.

It just snapped in. Fit perfectly. Excellent service.

Exposed evap defrosted with heat gun exposed defrost element defrost termination switch ok therminster didn’t check out the thermistor sends the signal to logic panel then run the the freezer ice machine and refer temps it took 24 hours before the system starting to show results freezer compartment 10 below ice compartment 0 degrees refer temp 37 degrees one refrigerant three different temps system is running at optimum performance 450.00 $ service call the thing with GE appliances there is no wiring diagram .thankyou parts select .ill use you on all domestic service calls.

It was very simple. Removed 4 screws on top of door where panel is located. Unplug 3 three connectors and removed board. reinstalled new one in reverse mode. On the down side this did not solve the problem. I am still working on it.

I followed directions from another person who had the same issue and model. It was fairly easy for me using their directions,

Replaced door circuit board. Vert simple to do. Problem was not solved! Replaced the main board with advice of ge tech. problem not solved. Currently waiting for the Tech to reappear. Not a happy person

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

Replaced Temperature Sensor and now it is getting cold.

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP