DDT575SSF0SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Opened the box took the rack out and placed it in the dishwasher. Good as new.

Followed the instructions on the video, it was pretty straight forward. It was helpful to know what to expect before hand like removing accumulated water in the drain before removing the flood switch so as not to have that water drain under the dishwasher. Knowing to have a nut driver with magnetic tip was helpful in removing and reinserting the screws. all in all it was pretty easy repair.

The part did not fit at all but not worth it to me to return it. The part I need is about 20 inches in length and the one sent was about 10 inches. I will simply call for this dishwasher to be repaired or replaced.

1. Take a picture of the old rack in the dishwasher! Just in case!
2. Remove rail channel end caps and place them on the tabletop on the correct side to make sure you put them back on the correct side.
3. Remove old rack.
4. Carefully snap off the water sprinkling unit. (carefully push down tabs so they don't break).
5. Using your picture as a reference (!) snap the water sprinkling unit on the new rack (it's easy).
6. Put the new rack back onto the rail channel and replace the end caps.

Done! Very easy installation ! Rack was not nearly as expensive as I anticipated and was delivered quickly. Note: You get the rack only. All ot the other parts are from the old unit.

Had to trouble shoot to isolated the true fault condition. Checked heating element was good
Researched symptoms on YouTube
Removed and inspected float switch part
Ordered and replaced part.

I tested Heating Element with Ohm Meter-Direct Short (if open it would have been bad and I would need to replace the element. Per the Website Troubleshooting for GE dishwasher, it said Heating Element (65%), Float Switch (32%), or Computer Board (only 3% Chance of it being board). So I ordered Float Switch. Later I noticed that the dishwasher would not change wash cycles from Heavy, Normal or Light.
So I turned the Circuit Breaker on and off. This fixed the Wash Cycle.
When the Float Switch Came in, I installed it in a few minutes watching the video on the GE Troubleshooting Page. Later when it was running I checked the operation and when I opened the door, the wife says seeing the steaming water, You fixed it, the Water is Hot now ! It was all about Hot Water, not the Heating Element at all ! And I think everything was fixed when I flipped the Circuit Breaker on and off and re-set the computer board. I think replacing the Float Switch was good maintenance, cause it was really dirty and needed to be replaced soon anyway. And it may have avoided my wife's next misdiagnosis with our dishwasher. This was 2 weeks ago, and all is well.
Sincerely,
Scott

The Mid Spray Arm Assembly was not spinning due to a dish that was in placed the dishwasher that was too high and hitting the arm. When it spun until it broke the center shaft. Replacement was easy. After removing power I pulled the upper tray out and removed the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly by unsnapping it from the tray. I twisted off the broken spindle of the damaged arm assembly from the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly and inserted the new arm and gently pushed it until it snapped into the Mid Tiered Assembly. Reinstalled the assembled parts by snapping into the tray making sure it was centered.

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher

Ordered new parts, unpacked the shipping containers, removed old racks and inserted the new ones. piece of cake. Perfect fit and prompt service.

The dishwasher rack was supposed to come with wheels it did not but I was able to use the existing wheels from the lower rack and snap them on was pretty easy

I was very confident that the problem with my GE Adora DDT595SSJ5SS was that it needed a new UI board. It had been beeping randomly for a couple of months, requiring a circuit breaker reset every so often, until finally it stopped working entirely. When I looked at the main board underneath, the LED was flashing too fast for me to count the blinks. These were the signature signs of the UI board going out -- and this did indeed turn out to be the problem. I've run the dishwasher several times since replacing the board, and there have been no issues.

The only real issue I had with the repair job was removing the dishwasher door. This was because the door of my model was held in place by a pair of tension cables (bottom left and bottom right of the unit), rather than hinges, and the cable method of attachment is less documented online. I had to get hold of a user manual for my unit to even discover this fact about it, since I had purchased my home with this dishwasher already present and did not see it being installed originally.

What I had to do was to pull the unit out about five inches, exposing the attachments for these cables (they are on the outside of the unit), so I could hook my heavy wire hook under them and detach them. If your dishwasher has these cables on the door, you really do need a hook tool of some sort to remove them. If you have strong wire, you can make one yourself as I did. Anyway, removing the cables allowed me to remove the door. After that it was straightforward to unscrew and unbolt the various panels, set the jumpers on the new UI board, and screw everything back together.

I should note that the cables were not tricky in any way, just that all of these Adora units seem to be a bit different and I happened to have one with a method of attaching the door that is not very well documented. I hope that this helps someone with this type of unit. If you see those videos online referring to detaching the door from hinges, and you can't find anything on yours that looks or feels like that, consider that you might have cables instead on the outside of the unit.

Took out the old and swapped out the parts from the old one and put them on the new rack. Looks great and works great.

I replaced the Flood Switch Part Number: WD21X10519.
I found that be removing the bottom front cover under dishwasher door, there was a small black plastic clamp holding up the wiring cable. By disconnecting the clamp, it gave me a few more inching of wire inside the machine, which made disconnecting old flood switch easier. It also help in installing the new flood switch. Then finally i reinstall the clamp cable under the machine to finish the job.

Upper rack I had to reuse the old power was assembly but it just snaps into place. Lower rack literally just place on roller track and it was done. No tools required. Extremely satisfied with my purchase. 10/10 recommend!!

Pulled out old rack and replaced with new rack.