CVM517P4M2W2 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Can't believe GE Profile allows such a flimsy filter to be used at all. These filters should not just fall apart while running water through them.

I ordered replacement 4 replacements because I'm sure this will happen again. Part Select fortunately had replacements! You just slide the new filter in place, no tools required. Thanks Part Select.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

Replace the burned-out bulb with the new purchased bulb

I replaced the switch at the bottom per instruction. I had both switches. I think it was the monitor door switch.It works fine now. Thank you Part Select .

Most of the effort is simply getting the oven out of the built in enclosure and the sheet metal off. This take about 15 minutes then you have to remove the two screws (not handy location) that hold the door latch/switch assembly so you can remove the switch. I did this BEFORE ordering so I could test the switch (it was charred) and verify the part needed. WATCH OUT - some ovens use a normally open an some a normally closed version of this switch - you have to get the right one. I checked several suppliers that were showing the WRONG switch for my model. PartSelect had it right. Once I received the switch I had it on and the oven installed and running in less than 30 miutes. Working fine since then...

Took the front panel off, played with the switch while it was plugged in to verify the switch was bad. I actually was able to tweak the switch just right to keep the microwave working while the part was being delivered. When it came it was just removing two small screws and replacing. Very easy.

I replaced old tray with new. Received replacement part in two days. I was surprised at the quick response time. The part ordered was right the first time.

I purchased the fuse and 3 door switches from PartSelect. Replaced the fuse first but that did not solve the problem. Then I replaced the 3 door switches and problem solved!! So fuse only cost $5.00 so glad I have a new fuse in there as well. To see how to replace door switches see videos on utube!!

While cooking squash for 20 min the microwave quit. No lights, nothing. Initially, I looked at fuses and tested thermostats whille leaving the unit in place over oven and removing control panel. One thermostat one base under fan showed no continuity so I replaced it just to find it was normally open so the problem remained, no power. After looking at schematic I saw the negation thermostat on the top of the megatron which would require removing the unit from the wall and disabling the unit cover , removing the vent duct. Immediately, I knew that had to be the problem since there was nothing more difficult to reach. Sure enough, after disassembling the unit, removing everything removable, I tested it and it was dead! No continuity! After replacing, everything works fine. Other than being a pain in the *** , it was pretty easy. Just a ton of screws to remove everything very obvious. The frustration is that there are two fuses, and two other thermostats right up front that would have been easy to replace but nooo. Can’t be those :-).

UNPLUG MIRCOWAVE.REMOVE THE HARDWARE, COVERS, AND DECONNECT THE CONTROL PANEL. REMOVE AND REPLACE VENT THERMOSTAT. REINSTALL EVERTHING IN REVERS ORDER. WORK FINE NOW. ADVISE IF YOUR FIRST TIME GET INSTRUCTIONS ON INTERNET SEARCH OR YOU TUBE

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

It took less then 10 minutes to order. Received new part with 3 days

I took the cover off, and replaced the glass-- the difficult part, was ordering the glass..on the list of parts to order-- the description of the glass was mis-leading

First I replaced the cracked cooking tray and I was done.

I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.