CVM517P2M1S1 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

While cooking squash for 20 min the microwave quit. No lights, nothing. Initially, I looked at fuses and tested thermostats whille leaving the unit in place over oven and removing control panel. One thermostat one base under fan showed no continuity so I replaced it just to find it was normally open so the problem remained, no power. After looking at schematic I saw the negation thermostat on the top of the megatron which would require removing the unit from the wall and disabling the unit cover , removing the vent duct. Immediately, I knew that had to be the problem since there was nothing more difficult to reach. Sure enough, after disassembling the unit, removing everything removable, I tested it and it was dead! No continuity! After replacing, everything works fine. Other than being a pain in the *** , it was pretty easy. Just a ton of screws to remove everything very obvious. The frustration is that there are two fuses, and two other thermostats right up front that would have been easy to replace but nooo. Can’t be those :-).

UNPLUG MIRCOWAVE.REMOVE THE HARDWARE, COVERS, AND DECONNECT THE CONTROL PANEL. REMOVE AND REPLACE VENT THERMOSTAT. REINSTALL EVERTHING IN REVERS ORDER. WORK FINE NOW. ADVISE IF YOUR FIRST TIME GET INSTRUCTIONS ON INTERNET SEARCH OR YOU TUBE

Parts arrived on the morning of the second day (Saturday) to my pleasant surprise. I opened the nite light access door with a screw driver. Inserted the 2 bulbs without touching the outside of the halogen bulbs. Checked that the bulbs did work and closed the access door. The entire process went quickly and posed very little difficulty.

It took less then 10 minutes to order. Received new part with 3 days

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

1. Open the cover over light bulbs with screwdriver.
2. Pulled out blown bulbs.
3. Inserts new bulbs from Partselect.
4. Tested new bulbs
5. Closed the cover over light bulbs with scvrewdriver.
6. Threw out old bulbs and packaging material.

Now, was that easy or what!

First I replaced the cracked cooking tray and I was done.

I took the cover off, and replaced the glass-- the difficult part, was ordering the glass..on the list of parts to order-- the description of the glass was mis-leading

GE slate microwave approximately 2 years old. Completely dead. Power to outlet was good, no gfci was tripped. Started checking fuses, 250v ceramic fuse good, two fuses at the bottom behind the control panel. One on the left labeled 12 on the diagram tested no continuity. One on the right labeled 13 tested good with continuity. So i figured number 12 was bad. Got the part and turns out to be the wrong fuse. Part number was the same but the terminals were the wrong size. Im pretty sure GE has the diagram labeled wrong because i ordered number 13 and it was the right size. Just an FYI if you are ordering those fuses for your microwave that 12 and 13 on the diagram may be reversed. Anyway received the right fuse and tested the new fuse and it tests open continuity and did not fix my issue. Microwave is still dead. There are two other fuses in the back that i need to check so hopefully i find the issue. Hope this helps someone, remember one fuse behind the control panel tests open and the other tests closed and thats how it is suppose to function.

I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

Removed control panel disconnected old capacitor installed new and returned the leads back on to the new. replaced control cover and tested

Put it in place. Ordered replacement over internet on Wednesday and part arrived Friday. Very fast service!