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Sample Model Number Tags
Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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The function of the grease filter is to trap grease into the filter from the exhaust air. The grease filter is intended to be used with certain downdraft cooktops and ranges. This grease filter is rou...
$28.31
In Stock
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This is a drip bowl, and it is used in conjunction with your range. The function of this part is to sit underneath your stove top burner element. This will allow the bowl to catch any spills that fall...
$11.51
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The drip bowl is found under the 6-inch burner on your range. This square chrome stove top drip pan is intended for use with electric ranges. It has a 2-inch inner hole diameter and 7-inch outer diame...
$11.47
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This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$20.95
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This surface burner switch, also known as an infinite switch, controls and regulates the heat output of the burners on a stovetop. The user simply adjusts the knob on the user interface panel, which i...
$70.65
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This 8 inch surface burner with reinforced delta frame carries 2100 watts and 240 volts. It has five turns and is compatible with many electric ranges. Its center medallion is all black in color.
$39.95
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This is a delta frame surface unit, also known as coil element, for a stove, range, or oven. It is a 6-inch surface burner with a reinforced delta frame that carries 1250 watts and 240 volts. The burn...
$55.08
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This may look different than the original, but is a functional equivalent. When installing this part, you may be required to drill holes and file the metal edges to adapt the switch to the original panel.
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control. 2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold. 3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in
... Read more place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at. 4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch). 5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally. 6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent. 7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
