CGR3765ADC Magic Chef Range - Instructions
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Oven temperature lower then setpoint.
After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.
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Robert from Massapequa, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
7 of 8 people
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The F3 error code displayed and beeped during use of the oven and oven shut down.
My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.
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Debra from Colts Neck, NJ
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 9 people
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Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.
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John from Ashland, OR
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers
6 of 6 people
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F3 code, oven wouldn't heat.
First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by removing the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!
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Shaun from Kimball, NE
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
8 of 12 people
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Oven would not heat consistently
I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !
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Leland from Orting, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
6 of 7 people
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spark ignition in stove failed to turn on burnes.
Remove burnes and top oven glass, , identified cables for each burner. Unpluged cables, remove old ignition module, drill a hole to install new module. Place module in location. I had to figure out what cables were for the right burner as after placing in the same location as old ignition Module it turned out that they were not identical. I did have to cut old plugs to be able to install cables to new ignition module. If the new part came with and adapter to old cables, as old plugs have small connectors, the new one comes with larger plugs. That would have made it esier.
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David from Upland, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
7 of 10 people
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Burners would not ignite
Removed cover from igniter, took off wires, replaced wires on new one, secured in place, put cover back on.
Parts Used:
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Charles from Kalamazoo, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 7 people
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Igniters were flaky on 2 burners and almost dead on 2
The part didn't come with installation instructions specific to any stove/oven so I went by a previous testimony on this website and pulled out the stove, and started to remove the side panel to get access. Well turns out I could have done the whole repair in place because on my Maytag the igniter source is accessible by removing the utility drawer and it's mounted on a small galvanized steel panel at the left side which hides the part directly. The existing spade connectors were the right size for me but I did have to crimp them tighter (which was perhaps part of the initial problem). After installation, the spark is much more powerful and all burners lit first couple "clicks".
Parts Used:
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Matt from Craig, CO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
7 of 10 people
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Electronic spark ignition would not ignite intermittently.
The spark moule was accessed by removing the bottom storage draw and removing the 2 phillips screws that held the spark module bracket to the frame of the stove located on the rear right side of the draw opening. The new module did come with new spade connectors that reqires cutting the existing connectors off and splicing and crimping the new connectors to the wires for each of the four burners depending on the model stove. Also I had to use zip ties to secure the new module to the original mounting hardware since the replacement module is not a direct fit. Each of the four burners now instantaneoulsly ignite when turned on. I will buy from Partselect.com in the future. Thank you.
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Charles from Old Bridge, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 5 people
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burner would not ignite
Even though the ceramic insulator looked new (white), it had become non-functional, replacement was simple, 2 phillips screws, reassemble and test. Now I will have to order the other 3.
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Scott from Sacramento, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
6 of 8 people
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Oven Door hinge broke
0. Throw oven circuit breaker 1. Open oven door and slide/lift door off of hinge posts 2. Remove oven drawer 3. Slide oven out from between cabinets and turn so that the back is accessible. 4. remove Phillips screws holding the cover-rear and side panel to the stove. Note which screws have pan heads and which are hex head. 5. remove stove elements and pans 6. Raise stove Top Assembly and release ceramic element sockets from their clips. 7. Push the supports for the Top Assembly fornt and back to release them from their sockets so that the Top Assembly can be lifted to near vertical. 8. Remove the hex head screw holding the Control Panel End Cap to the side panel. (Steps 5-7 might be avoided if you have a small socket wrench that can get to this screw without removing the elements.) 9. Remove the other screws holding the top of the side panel to the "Box Burner" pan that sits under the Top Assembly. 10. Pull side panel slightly away from the oven and lift it to disconnect it from the posts that hold the side panel to the front of the oven. 11. Remove the two screws on the front of the oven that hold the hing mechanism. 12. tilt and remove the hinge. 13. Open the replacement hinge so that it can fit through the hinge opening in the front of the oven. 14. Reassemble.
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Lar from Cary, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 11 people
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Variable oven heat and Ignitor. problems
moved stove away from the wall, Disconnected power, Removed 2 screws on the access panel and removed panel. Disconnected qwick release conections on heat sensor and ignitor, Removed oven door and burner cover to expose ignitor, removed 2 screws to remove ignitor and replaced ignitor. Removed 2 screws and removed sensor, replaced sensor. Reconnected qwick conects on sensor and ignitor. Replaced oven door, burner cover and access panel and checked out. Checks OK !
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Floyd from Kenai, AK
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 6 people
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Oven would not maintain temperature
So simple! I really had no idea what the problem was. I found the PartsSelect site, read the comments from fellow Maytag double oven owners, diagnosed the problem as the sensor and ordered the part. It arrived in only two days! We removed the back of the stove, pulled the old sensor through, plugged the new one in and YAY the oven is like new. I have to admit most of the repair time involved sweeping up the dog hair that had accumulated under the stove.
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KATHY from PLEASANT GAP, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 7 people
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 13 people
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Faulty bulb receptacle
Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!
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Kenneth from Lynchburg, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
9 of 19 people
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