CDT765SSF7SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

When new gasket arrived almost two weeks after it was sent out from Green Bay, I took out old gasket, marking which side was in and which out.
Then, with hands, fit new gasket in place making sure it was centered.
No leaking; it worked.
Thanks.

I replaced the Flood Switch Part Number: WD21X10519.
I found that be removing the bottom front cover under dishwasher door, there was a small black plastic clamp holding up the wiring cable. By disconnecting the clamp, it gave me a few more inching of wire inside the machine, which made disconnecting old flood switch easier. It also help in installing the new flood switch. Then finally i reinstall the clamp cable under the machine to finish the job.

Bottom rack came complete with all racks. Only had to transfer the (2) side bumper guards,

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher

Bought replacement rack transferred all the accessories from the old to the new. Mostly snap-in-place.

Followed directions on YouTube

Pulled washer out of space to access cables to the door. Removed moved the cables by stretching springs and unhooking cable from door. Disconnected wire from door to machine in body of machine. Opened door an lifed on an angle that allowed door to be lifted out of hinges. Unscrew and remove hinges on both sides. Remove by simply pulling them straight in direction of the bottom of the door. Then unscrew bolts on either side that are now exposed after taking hinges out. Then push inside of door up and remove. Unscrew the control board unit. Un plug cable to control board. Remove bezel cover. Then carefully unsnap unit case and remove board. Replace with the new board. However since this is a replacement part it must be configured for your machine. Instructions shou you the configuration. However where I ran into a problem was dining out how to set it. There were no switches. What I learned was that altouch it looked like one piece the jumper connections actually were four separate pieces that were tightly fitted together. In order to get the configuration you simply have to lift the jumper connector up. Once done reverse process and your done. If I did not run into that one issue repair time should be 30 minutes tops.

First, drain as much water as possible using a shop vac or siphon. Unscrew two plastic lugs and food screen to release the metal *disk* found inside the dishwasher at the bottom. Then, remove the grey retainer ring found under the food screen.
Using the nut driver, remove two screws from the white plastic retainer ring at bottom the flood switch.
I used pliers to grip the ring to take it out.
**Dry everything in the "well" where the flood switch sits.**
Now, remove the bottom front cosmetic panel. This exposes the underside of the appliance. Locate the flood switch wire underneath and gently pull down the small black plastic tab which holds the wires in place. This allows more movement to make your job a little easier!
Pull up on the flood switch and simply unplug it and swap in your new switch! Replace everything as you found it, don't over-tighten your screws, and make your kids load that sucker! Hope this helps, and have a beautiful day!

My heating coil was not working so naturally I thought I needed a new coil and ordered one accordingly. During the time it took to ship to me, I did more research and people suggested testing the coil with and ohmmeter for resistance as often times the coil is fine and it is the flood switch that is the problem. I got an ohmmeter and checked the old coil and it returned readings that were just fine (btw 15-30), so I returned the coil and ordered this flood switch.

Anyone reading this debating between buying the coil and switch can save themselves a lot of trouble/time/money by removing the coil and testing it first.

The installation of the flood switch is fairly simple. There's a great video on Youtube for it (titled "GE Dishwasher not Drying Dishes - How to Replace Bad Flood Switch:), so I won't walk through the step-by-step on it.

However, one word of advice is to be careful when installing so that you don't let the o-ring on the switch slide down the connector/wire once you connect them or you'll get a slow leak into the catch pan at the bottom.

Also, if this if your first repair on a GE Dishwasher then get to know the unit while you have it pulled out. It won't be your last repair based on my experience...

Needed GE Technician to install. Partselect.com had to send a second replacement rack because the first one was defective. When the second on arrived, IT TOO WAS DEFECTIVE. After the Tech tried to install the second replacement, he was forced to remove a part from the original rusted rack in order to get the 2nd replacement to even stay in the rails of the machine. Tech was great, but the Partselect.com parts were unusable as sent.

Took out 2 screws that held machine in cabinet. Pulled out dishwasher about 4 inches. removed old latch and disconnected electric connection. Put in new latch, reconnected electric connection, replaced screws, pushed machine back in cabinet, replaced 2 screws that hold machine in place. Works like new!