CCE3401Q Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions
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Small burner on glass top stove stopped working.
First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.
Parts Used:
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REX from VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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faulty dual surface burner swich
I followed your excellent service instructions.
This was the reason I purchased the part from you,
even though other websites had the same part for considerably less
This was the reason I purchased the part from you,
even though other websites had the same part for considerably less
Parts Used:
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olof from san diego, DE
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 7 people
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Right rear burner under glass no longer would heat
Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place
Parts Used:
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John from Maple Valley, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person
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Burners stayed hot and couldn’t be adjusted
Followed Igor’s instructions and it was very easy and straightforward. New switches work great.
Parts Used:
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roger from LITTLETON, NC
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Element burn out. Would not heat
Turn Circuit breaker off.Open the Oven door removed the 2 screws to the top surface. Disconnect the wire harness mark and remove the wires from the Old Element, removed the screws holding the element to top surface, Remove element replace with new element. Install wires, install screws, reconnect wire harness reposition surface. Reinstall screws and turn Circuit breaker power back on. Done and Done
Parts Used:
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Dennis from AIKEN, SC
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
1 person
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control failed
Couldn't hook up the wires since the instructions were so cryptic. Ended up fixing old control and re-installed it. Worked fine.
Parts Used:
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Robert from High Springs, FL
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 3 people
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element or temperature sensor failed: not working
Removed unit from counter, removed 14 screws holding glass top to frame, removed ceramic element, swapped over mounting brackets to new element, checked wireing as per instruction sheet (direct replacement) connected wires, re-installed glass top to frame and placed back into counter. ops check good.
Parts Used:
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David from Mary Esther, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1 of 3 people
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front burner would not heat
simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.
Parts Used:
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Jack A from Biloxi, MS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
0 of 1 people
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outer ring of dual radiant burner doesn't work
Thanks for the previous viewer's tip, disconnect power, pushed the cook top out of the counter and used a wood block for the support. Unscrew the smooth top from the burner, remove old and plug in the new one. Connect power, test OK. Put everything back.
Parts Used:
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Qiong from Mckinney, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
1 of 5 people
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Surface Burner Short
Removed the cook top from the counter. Removed the switch housing and then the switch. Found a match and ordered. Part came in 2 business days. Once I put together the housing and connected the wire housing the burner worked perfect. The downdraft fan remained on. Placed a call to Jenn Air service and was asked to disconnect the fan switch. There must be some memory in the solid state portion of the switch. After a few mins I replaced the fan switch and hooked up the wiring. All worked fine.
Parts Used:
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John from San Antonio, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Lower left Surface Element burnt
1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.
Parts Used:
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John from Nashville, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Water boiled over burnt out switch
Knocked breaker removed stove top from iland removed a dozen screws replaced switch put screws back in installed top back in iland put breaker back in worked purfect.
Parts Used:
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Eddie from Loyall, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Both switches had separated from the mountings.
The single burner switches were exactly the same as the old switches, and only took 10-15 minutes to replace two of them, including the time to remove the twelve sheet metal screws holding the glass top in place. The dual burner switch, however, was a totally different switch, and none of the wire colors matched any of the instructions. One set of instructions said there was no need to separate the paired red wires, while the instructions with the switch said they must be separated...ignoring the color code, and going by terminal numbers only, the first set of instructions led to the point of separating the paired red wires and attaching a female connector (which was not included in the package)to the red wire from the burner assembly and connecting that wire to the #2 terminal on the new switch. When the remaing red wire was attached to P2, there was barely enough slack in the wire to install the switch in it's proper orientation. All of this required numerous trips to the circuit breaker panel to test the connection. One of the jumper wires had a female connector which didn't fit any of the terminals on the burners or the switch. The instructions with the switch could very well confuse even a licensed electrician, as none of the burner connections are labeled.
Parts Used:
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Rodney from Baton Rouge, LA
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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burner switch broken
turned off power to stove top..lifted unit out unscrewed top and switch had 2 screws re-placed switch and put back together.. make easy $100 plus switch
Parts Used:
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larry from houston, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
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Water shorted out switch
Turned off power, disconnected wires, cut tape on exhaust fan connection, removed cooktop from counter and removed glass top from assembly, removed screws on switch, switched wires from old switch and installed on new switch, reinstalled everything, restore power and checkout new switch positions. Everything worked.
Parts Used:
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Duncan from Bellingham, WA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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