AER5715RCS Amana Range - Instructions

swap a known good coil around and still did not work. then measured voltage across the switch terminals and found out one leg was opened. Ordered a new switch which looked alike. The new switch could handle more current than the old one. Turned out that all terminals of the new switch were same size while the old one had 1 smaller size. Used the dremer tool to file it to fit the wire terminal. Also the burner knob had different grove type . Just forced it in.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Pull out the range...hardest part.
Remove back panel.
Remove/install switch
PS,
This is second switch I had to replace. Try making them in the United States.

It was easy to remove the old oven door gasket. Just a little tug was all that was needed. Installing new gasket was just as simple as tucking in the gasket end into the hole at the bottom and pushing the clip in the corresponding hole.
TIP: roll the end of the gasket and feed into the hole then use a small tipped screw driver or the point of a needle nose plier to finish installing the ends into the hole at the bottom of the door opening.

This range was easy. Only 4 screws under the front panel that allows the panel to come off. No need to pull the range out for back screws.

Replacement part was exact and worked perfect.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the range.

Remove the 4 screws under the front panel, one on each end and one one each side of the display/control panel.

Pull the bottom of the front panel out about 30 degrees and lift off the top.

Once panel is off pull of the dial knob, remove the two screws for the control and swap wires on at a time with the new one.. Reverse the procedure and all is good. You may need to use needle nosed pliers on the spade connectors if they are too tight to pull off by hand.

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

removed bottom pan cover. removed broken element. replaced with new one.. simple. would buy from this place again. shipped super fast

First things first...Unplug the unit...Then remove the center plate from the back of the oven (one screw) and take clips off element. Then on the inside, there are 2 screws near the back on the bottom panel. These were rusted on pretty good, so that's where the vice grips came into play. The entire job would've gone much faster, if I wasn't fighting with these 2 screws...After you remove the screws, tilt up bottom panel and remove. Then you just remove 1 rear screw & 2 bottom screws and slide out the old element. Slide the new one in, secure it with the screws and screw the bottom panel back into place. Go to the rear of the oven, slide the 2 clips on the element and screw rear plate back on. Plug the oven back in and that's it...

unplugged power took the back panel off unplugged the 5 wires removed knob by grabbing and pulling off took two screws out of front panel removed the switched put new switch in place and reversed the procedure went very smooth know problem at all any one with any kind of ability should change this switch in know time at all

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

After removing element cover off with Phillips screw driver, found a little screw in bottom of oven. Couldn't find where that came from. Removed two screws from element bracket from floor of oven and one holding in the back wall. Most difficult was pulling the old element out of the electrical clamps and hoping the wire would not pop back into the insulation/ and replacing with the new bracket. That is where my hemostat came handy as pliers were too big and the hemostats stabilized the connection without it popping back into the oven. What was really astonishing was the new element and floor bracket DID NOT line up with the screw holes in the bottom of the oven. Could not adjust/move bracket as some of the element was "clawed?" on the bracket and feared I would damage it. Thus I now have two extra screws along with the one found on floor of the oven. Replaced cover and it currently heats nicely.

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.