ADT521PGJ0WS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

When the part arrived, I was pretty sure it was the wrong part. The replacement part had an LED on it -- a box that stuck up about an inch above the circuit board. My dishwasher did not have an LED readout and I was pretty sure the LED would not fit in the space that was available. I was reluctant to take the dishwasher apart until I had the right part. The people at Part Select were helpful and together we looked at the schematic which did, indeed, seem to show a box sticking up from the circuit board. A YouTube video showed me how to take the door off its hinges, unscrew 4 screws and slide the inside of the door upwards. The circuit board went in fairly easily. There was space for the LED (even though it still doesn't show through the top) and now the lights work.

Don't remove the door! Unscrew the bolts at each lower corner of the door(this is how the door is attached to the hinges so it is now free). Then open the door fully and slowly pull the door toward you a few inches. This slides the door up the hinges and allows just enough room to slide the old gasket out and and slide the new one in. Then slide the door back down the hinges(pushing it away from you, back into place). Then simply close the door and reinstall the bolts at the bottom corners and all done! I watched several videos and believe me, removing the door to replace this gasket does nothing but turn and small quick repair into a large lengthy one.

I fixed this issue by replacing the Dishwasher Tub Gasket (PS11774412) and the gasket on the bottom of the door (PS11700870). Replacing the tub gasket is very easy and straight forward. You just pull it off and put the new one on. The door gasket was much more complicated. See the steps required for replacement below:

The * indicates the part number in the diagram I am referencing

1. Remove the Toe Kick Assembly (*759)
2. Remove screws holding dishwasher to counter and pull the dishwasher out
3. With door shut, disengage the springs on both sides from the arm hinge assemblies *800 (I did this by taking the rope off the pulley hinge *734)
4. Disconnect the wire going from the dishwasher body to the door (there are two or three supports for the wire that need to be removed for it to come free)
5. Open the door about 15 degrees and pull the door upward (only one angle will work for removing the door)
6. Place the door on its front on the ground
7. Remove the two screws (*745) that hold one of the arm hinge assemblies to the door and pull the hinge away from the door (you don't need to pull it all of the way out)
8. Pull the old gasket out to the side and install the new gasket

Thanks to this site for saving me about 150.00.This is my third repair with parts from your company. Thank you.

There was no repair -- it was a simple snap-in replacement of lower spray arm assembly. The shaft holding the lower spray arm in place is plastic so of course it broke when a utensil blocked the arm from spinning.

I appreciate the Parts Select company for enabling me to purchase a replacement part though that allows me to keep my old dishwasher working.

I removed the old gasket and installed the new one in the same position as the one I removed. I had to feel with my fingers for the ridge to insert the gasket so that it would hold. I must admit that I was skeptical that it would work (the old one didn't even seem very damaged). I ran a cycle and there was no more leaking. We've been using the dishwasher ever since with no issues of leakage.

Very satisfied customer.

The dishwasher had been installed before we added 3/4 oak floor, so I could not pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. That will be a major project when the dishwasher dies.
To remove the door, I removed the two 1/4 " screws on the right and left bottom of the door. I used a box wrench since that was the only way to reach them. One had corroded due to a leak. it took some coaxing but finally came loose. The hint about opening the door 27 degrees and propping it open with two Allan wrenches through the hinge holes was very helpful. Then I lifted the door a little and gently pushed toward the counter releasing the door form the hinges. I took the door off to find a leak and found the right corner edge of the inside tub had cracked. Not sure how this happened. I cleaned and sanded the crack area and used J-B Weld to epoxy the crack. Replacing the gasket was easy. Slide out the old, slide in the new. Everything went back together smoothly. If I hadn't needed to repair the tub, the hint about opening the door all the way and sliding it out part way might have worked to change the gasket. Note. Unlike a stove door the dishwasher door is not that heavy.

Removed the screen cover and then removed two bolts with nut driver and removed white plastic retaining piece. Pulled flood switch out of housing (raise approximately 2 inches) then unfasten electrical plug. New part connects to electrical plug (pnly can fit one way so no problem with orientation). Pushed floid switch bsck into lace and attached white plastic retainer with two bolts and then set screen cover back. Very simple and easy.

Online instructions said to remove door. Found no need to. Only need to release one hinge by sliding door upward after removing 2 screws at bottom edge of door which releases both hinges. With door lifted just pry out old seal (it will be stuck so use a strong screwdriver). Then slide new seal in place. Lower door back down on hinge. Job done.

Turn off water supply, turn of power to dishwasher, remove mounting screws, slide dishwasher out of opening, place a pan under water supply valve, remove water line, remove screws holding the valve in place, disconnect electrical connector. Reverse process to install new valve.

just bolted on the new one and hooked up the hose

First went to U Tube to view installation instructions and location of part. It was fairly easy to replace since I had installed the unit. I was able to move the unit out enough without disconnecting any line since there was enough slack in all three connections, only shut the power off. I did use the new parts even though the older ones were not broken. The nylon pulley wheel had built up with lint causing the cable to come off.

Took old valve assembly off and replaced with new assenbly

Repair went fine, getting the right pump was the problem. I started with my local appliance parts house, they ordered part came in 3 days. Upon picking it up I noticed that the pump was shaped slightly different and the electrical hook up was totally different. Asking the parts guy what happened he said they must have sent the wrong pump. Returned it for credit and ordered it again. Four days later the same exact thing occurs. Parts guy credits my account and says better go directly to GE. Wait 10 days for GE, for this part and once again same odd looking pump with wrong electrical plug. My son who is a welder by trade asks me if there is a packet of parts in carton and yes there is. He says that perhaps there is a converter for the electrical. That was the solution no one told us that pump was universal and needed the adapter. Not even the 2 different tecks at first house. Perhaps that should be stated in the part would have saved us tons of time. Thanks D

damage to gasket (had a slit in the area of the utensii baskets.
causing lower right corner of gasket to come out. caused leakage to floor from the lower right corner of door...

As I am 77 yrs of age I was leary of diy but thanks to the reps of
"Parts Select" I actually was able to put in the new gasket myself.It did take some time and lots of patience as it had to be seated correctly..I also had to make sure the new gasket was in the groove as it is supposed to be.