ADT521PGF0BS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Simple! I removed the flatware tray and pulled out the old rack assembly. Rolled in the new one and replaced the tray. Not really a "repair" per se but a needed replacement.

It was relatively easy to fix. I unscrewed the mounting screws from the cabinet, slide the dishwasher out to access the pump under the dishwasher, I did raise the dishwasher on the left side and steadied with a stool to make access to the pump fitting easier. Then I loosed both clamps at the ends of the hose ie. from the dishwasher pump and the connection to the sink drain line, pulled the clamp off of the end that connects to the pump and placed it on the new hose connection, I removed the old hose, connected the new one and tightened the drain line connections. I placed the hose in the hose holders on the side of the dishwasher slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it in place with the mounting screws.

Had to remove the rubber gasket on the new spray arm to install the device, as it was hard to push into the above slot that fits the arm..

Repair was simple, lower rack just remove and replaced with out any tools or disassemble required, for the upper rack installation, the end cap need to be removed out of the sliding tracks, slide old rack out and discard, clean the track with a suitable cloth and slide new rack in to the tracks, reinstall the old end caps, as a good preventing measure, order new end caps just in case they are need it if the old ones crack during removal.
save old rollers from old racks for future repairs

My son did the repair, I ordered both latch and striker, only needed the latch...only took him a few minutes to remove the old and install the new and works just fine

Nightmare!!! The Striker latch did not pop out with a screwdriver as it was supposed to. The whole dishwasher needs to be disconnected and pulled out, then front door removed and totally disassembled to remove the screw to replace the striker latch. lots of work to replace a striker latch. Bad design!

Release DW from cabinet and pull out, Unplug power.
Remove kick plate and unplug door cable.
Open door about 6 inches and using socket back out 2 bolts at bottom of door corners.
Pull door up off hinges about 4 inches and slide old gasket out and install new gasket in place.
Reset door on hinges and reinstall bolts.
Plug door cable in and reattach kick plate and plug power cable in.
Push DW back in place and attach to cabinet and adjust kick plate

1. Turned off circuit breaker
2. Pulled out dishwasher
3. Disconnected switch and popped out switch
3. Popped in new switch and connected
4. Pushed dishwasher back into place
5. Turned on circuit breaker
6. Turned on dishwasher and it worked

took out old and replaced with new

-Disabled power.
-1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate.
-Unplug wires harness to door
-Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches
-uncouple spring pulley from door hinges.
-Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove
-Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door)
-remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door.
-Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal).
-Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order.
Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate.
-Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.

I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.

I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills

I replaced the flood switch following instructions shown in readily available YouTube videos. In short, you remove the coarse and fine filters, then take out the bracket holding in the flood switch and finally the switch itself. After replacing the switch, the dishwasher works normally again.

1) Pull out lower basket plate holder out. Now would be a good time to check roller wheels. 2) Grasp lower spray arm base (knurled collar on base) and turn counter clockwise to release. 3) Install new spray arm and turn knurled collar on base clockwise to lock it in. 4) Reinstall lower basket plate holder.
* Done *

Some of these other instructions may be for other models. This is specifically for GDT530PGD2BB, which doesn't present screws on the inner side of the door.

I'm extremely reluctant to do anything more than the repair at hand, so I didn't move the dishwasher out of its recessed cabinet, which would make the repair easier. I also did not remove the connector plug from the dishwasher to the door, since there was enough slack to do the repair without this step.

1. Turn off power to the dishwasher.

2. Under the bottom of the door, there are two 1/4" hex screws that can be removed with a small socket wrench, or if you moved the dishwasher out, you can tip it over slightly and get at these screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

3. With those out, you can open the door flat and slide it off it's hinges *just a little bit*. You need maybe an inch or so clearance to slide the old gasket out and slide the new one in. I had to use pliers to remove the old, very damaged gasket, but the new one easily slid into place.

4. Were you able to just move the door out a bit without removing it totally from the hinges? Great! Slide it back, put those screws in the bottom again, and you've done it! Probably in minutes!

5. Or, you could be like me and accidentally lift the door too far and have one of the hinges pop out. If I had someone helping me, it would have taken half a minute to put the door back on its hinges, but I was by myself, so I had to finagle something to keep the hinges open (two screwdrivers wedged handle first), so I could slide the door back on the hinges. That took me about 10 minutes. ¯\_(?)_/¯

Good luck!

Turned off pier at breaker. Removed dishwasher from under counter after disconnecting water line from dishwasher and drain tube from under sink. You might get a little residual water but not much. Removed old flood switch took about 2 minutes. Replaced with new flood switch. Then tilted dishwasher back to get to plastic nuts that hold down heating element. Set unit back down and removed old heating element then replace it with new one. Replace plastic nuts that hold element. Exact parts makes job easy. Them put water hose back on an put washer back in place hooked drain hose back up. Turned water and power back on. Tested unit worked perfectly. Hardest part of job was putting the dishwasher back into counter and getting the Instalation back on top.
Parts replacement time was about 10 minutes.
Disconnecting and reconnecting and replacing dishwasher 40 minutes. But I wouldn’t pay anyone to do this because it’s really not difficult.

Took cover of door off. Removeddoor from frame 1st. Lift door off of hinge. Disconnect door from springs. Unscrew bottom screws at base of door. Lift front cover(actually slides down) remove old part replace with new.make sure unplug door from main body.